Pastrykiller

I'm almost positive that he doesn't want a dunable. Just a pro mod 1-6 N down.

Complete setup. Stock carbs with tors delete. One carb was drilled on the wrong side from previous owner. It has been fixed with the addition of short bolt to seal off the side. Worked great on a drag port. Wouldn't even know it was ever done. Your choice of pilots 25-30. Will have to gather my selection of mains to see if I have what u need If the bolt in the carb deters you, I will throw in another carb body that isn't tapped and you do your own mod. Will include usable throttle cable Alright k&n pods. Not in best shape at all but still work just fine. 80.00 shipped Paypal gifted. Pics later... Also will sell all of my other mikuni jets after potential buyer makes selection.

Is that motorcycle wheel from a victory? Hmm looks like my kingpin.

Seen this on inland empire for months

No research to do if you do 300 ft drags. Stick with the 1-5 dunable. I ride open desert and like 6th gear.

Btw- pwk 33's and 35's have the same bodies. You can bore a 33 to a 35 if you need that size in the future.

33 pwk's on a 4 mil is ideal. When u say tops are stripped...carbs or carb caps? I have a new set of tops if you need em. If not, I have a set of stock carbs that will have the new caps on them as well.

I traded my Wcr n d 1-5 dunable for his pro mod n d 1-6. Under full load, bump the clutch and it's in another gear. I prefer it over the 1-5 for my riding. It's pretty damn sweet.

Stocks are just fine. That motor is far from needing carb mods.

Pm me I have a set from an 89

I have a play bike that is a stock stoke crank with drag ported stock cylinders. This thing flat out hauls the mail for what it is. Peaky and always provides a grin on your face if you ride it like you stole it.

Yeahp!

Just get some upp intakes. No need for the billet unless you want it to be pretty.

Sarcasm or change of heart?

Phil, u buy the hubs and send me the studs. Deal?

58.00?

Hell it's almost cheaper to buy a set of hubs off egay vice studs from Yama dealership.

Looking for at least 4-5 front wheel studs. Pm me if you got some for sale. Thanks

If you pay his salary, then you most Definately pay my salary. In my 17 years, I have yet to see my military paycheck excluded from taxes unless in a deployed combat zone. The marine corps is so damn broke that we don't even have a fucking wood shop let alone a mill.

Where do you ride in jville? I couldn't find anything legal when I lived there in 2011.

Take a medium sized flat head and insert it into the carb throat with the slide raised. Lower the slides down onto the flat head "make sure the flat head is vertical and not horizontal". Once the slide sits on it, adjust the idle screw to that position to keep the slide at that height. Do the same thing to the other slide. That should get you close to what you need. Adjust the idle screws the same amount on each side to ensure that they are the same. If you adjust the idle too high, you will be running on the needle instead of the pilot. Once it is where you want it, the. Adjust your cables to ensure that the slides raise and lower at the same time. Be aware that you can also adjust these too tight and they raise the slides higher than you set the idle screw. Be patient and it will work.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169900#entry1521350

I got a set. Pm me

Once you pass out from sucking on the brass tube, you will realize that sarcasm was used. The brass tube that fuel is pulled thru is actually in the carb body and not the one in the bowl. Shine your light into it and look for the difference is castings.

Photo of the BB in the float bowel. Indent/hole that fuel is sucked into the brass tube. Right side bowel has identical indent/hole. You need to shine a light into it to see which one is open. No light? That's okay. Just suck on each brass tube until you find the one that doesn't have resistance and that's the left side bowel.