1CrazyBastard

The pipes were on it when I bought it and from what I have read they are best suited for a stock banshee .I am not trying to tear into the engine to much just yet as I don't want a bunch of downtime during riding season. I may tear into this winter jan/ feb and send it to have port work done or look into bolt on serval cylinders like you suggested I'm very busy in the summer months and don't have a lot of free time to work on this thing rather do minor stuff now and ride .I guess it looks like the timing plate mod for now .Thanks for the advice and man tough crowd tough crowd some days on here thanks though for sparing me the train wreck and for the advice . I wonder if there is a "better" quality brand as I see there are several companies that make em any suggestions on a good brand ? .I will get the flywheel puller hell they are only like 10-15 bucks and that's probably well spent rather than screw something up .

Who would you recomend for porting ? whats a mild porting cost ? and thanks for some good info .

I have read a bit and your right it depends who ya ask trouble I find is a lot of insane quads on here not to many stockers like mine it seems .I mostly trail ride my Banshee and occasional sand pits .I have spoken to a few good vendors particuarly Wildcard racing was real helpful in the past as was Vitos . I'll probably give both them a call and see what they can help me out with or reccomend .I am thinking cyl heads , and the timing plate so far but just wanted some input from more experienced members .

Really ? a skid plate man wtf you guys are just a bunch of ball breakers or is there anyone on here that will actually help somebody and share some good knowledge ?

LOL damit kinda thought so but didnt wanna be a dick since I thought he was trying to help and maybe didnt know any better 3000 post dont = intelligence

I am surprised at that reponse as I was told that should be the first thing to "Remove" from the quad as they cause issues with the intake boots due to vibration and may actually cause a loss in power .I have since removed that and replaced it with a crossover tube

I have a 2004 Banshee my only mods are Toomey T6 pipes / jet kit ,Duncan pyramid reeds ,Toomey 2/1 air filter , and a chassis skid plate .I want to keep it "fairly" stock and reliable .What are the best mods I can do to accomplish this ? I am considering an adjustable timing plate and heads what would you suggest w/o breaking the bank or the banshee would be my best bang for the buck and wake it up a bit yet keep it reliable ?

Dual stock carbs are fairly easy and they run perfectly for me.I trail ride so the stock carbs are good for me and I'm happy with my banshee .You can find stock carbs on here for cheap http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=168862 maybe a set of pipes and a 2 in 1 filter set up and be happy it'll run good .

Thumbs up to Wildcard Racing Brandons a great guy to deal with and I'll be buying more parts from him in the furture .

Thats unreal how could someone abuse one so frigging bad is hard to believe. I beat the hell outta mine but can't imagine one part of it ever looking like that does ! smh

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

Just curious do you still have the TORS system / metal boxes on top of the carbs ?

Do yourself a favor and read the info here http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html lots of good info and it will help you get it where it needs to be

Pull air filter and look into the carb throats do you see both slides all the way down ? if not check needle is in center of carb properly when you installed carb top and the grove in the slide is lined up with the pin in the carb so it can go in properly

How high does it rev ?? If it just revs to wot then look at your carb sllides the needles or a needle might be stuck and didnt go into the carb properly holding the slide up or the slide groove might not be lined up in the carb

Well i am new to the Banshee world myself and not overly familiar with it yet. However I am an outboard engine tech and all I do all summer is diagnostics on engines and it seems to me like its gotta be a grounding or wrimg issue as both switches are unlikely to be bad at once .Check the switches with a good meter and make sure they do what they are suppose to all the way thru the harness and I bet you'll find it

Do both switches have a good ground ? If you look at the diagram and trace it sounds to me like a grounding issue on the black wire

If I had not just gone thru the same exact thing just two weeks ago I would Not have known but I just got an eduaction on banshee carbs the hard way and made several mistakes this being one of them . I just got the thing and hell I didnt even know what a Banshee was three mos ago

Picture 1 or 2? pic 2 is the proper way according to toomey however I installed mine with the hole closed and it didnt seem to make any difference in the way it ran or effect the throttle .I have since made sure both of my slides are like pic 2

Hey man i recently went thru the same thing here is a good link its in the technical section here on this forum http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html i wish I had read it before I did my jetting

For now you can take a bright flashlight and look/shine into the site glass on the sides of the carbs as you move the throttles to wide open its a small clear glass spot on the carbs you will see a white/ silver dot move into the site glass as the throttles get at or near wide open the site glass is on the left side of both of the carbs and if you sync them together it will be pretty dam close til you get the tool .

It has to stay open or is suppose to as the slide could compress the air like a piston does so the hole is suppose to stay OPEN here is something i copy and pasted from toomey racing There is a hole in the bottom of the slide on the inside as you look down from the top. Also notice there is a passage way on the aluminum cable holder too. These must lineup! (See photo) The purpose of this passage is so that the slide has an air vent to the top of the carb. Otherwise, the slide would act like a piston in a cylinder and compress air above it. Once the compressed air blew out down the sides of the slide between the slide and the slide bore, the slide might stick on the way down because of the resulting vacuum created.

You didnt switch the carb slides by accident did you ? Does it act as if its flooding out ?? just unscrew one and check the left slide has two slots cut in the top of it and the right only has one slot

Well just bought a banshee recently and want to purchase a head and domes I currently have t 6 pipes , k&n pods and duncan reeds and am at SEA Level . I would like to wake this thing up a little and am looking to purchase domes and a head but dont know what to purchase .Can somebody suggest the best bang for the buck w/o compromising reliability

Have you checked your compression ? Are the plugs ok ? If so where are your low speed needles at ?? Have you tried adjusting it ? If comp is good and the needles dont make a difference then it sounds like the carbs are probably still dirty what did you use to clean the carbs ?? and what pilot jets do you have in now as you had posted about the choke jet what ended up being the outcome of that issue ?