maskmanLS6

Quart capacity is 1.5 and you dont screw the stick down to check the level. your problem is probably the o ring on the coolant tube that goes through the clutch cover from the water pump.

Thats what im talkin about. Best procedure ive heard yet.

Yea you have to drill and tap the holes,,first you have to file the edge flat on the carbs where the screws go in. And yo need to make sure you use the right tap or else you will be SOL when you try to put the screws in. You can google it and im sure there are some drawings you can view with detailed instructions, because this is a very popular mod.

I had a fly wheel problem recently and it worked me bad. My foot was sore for days, I tried everything else first and almost drove myself crazy because i couldnt believe it was the problem because i had spark the whole time.

I personally would try porting your stock cylinders and deciding weather or not you need a big bore set up. Theres alot of other expenses that come with big bore set ups besides the cost of the kit. You can get some port work cheaper and still have a trail bike thats hard to handle in the trails and capable of putting down 60hp+ depending on what all you add to compliment the port work. There are several people here that can hook you up with some good port work.

You will need some idle screws to keep the carbs at a consistent idle. The cables will work but will never be consistent and will cause you problems.

Did you change the flywheel during the build?

That doesnt make you an idiot,, just a learning curve.

I just went through that with a head shaved .040 and had a squish that was tooooooo tight and was causing deto. at high rpm. I wouldnt shave more than .030 for sure.

You will have to bore them out at least. Not sure about the rest of your questions but your blaster piston is larger than your bore.

Thanks guys,,Those were some pretty straight forward answers and now im confident about my oil level. That was bugging me for a while not knowing for sure.

Ok thanks, i was screwing the stick all the way down to check it. Im using the right fluid and will fill it all the way up now.

What oil should be used in the trans. And is the level checked with the stick screwed in or just dropped down all the way ?

cool,,good luck

I have ported stock cylinders with an aggressive dune or trail port and its all i need or want in the trails or the sand. It pulls hard when and where i need it to. I wouldnt spend big money on cubs or any other plated cylinders, unless your gonna use them for a specific riding style where nothing else will do. And you can save money by sending your stock head to mull eng. and letting them work it to what your engine needs also. Its cheaper than a cool head and doesnt require o rings or different studs.

There is a point on the arm that your clutch cable connects to on the bottom end of the cable. That point and the small arrow point on your engine case should be lined up when the clutch begins to disengage. The adjustment on your clutch basket is used to align these to prevent the ball and rod that operates your clutch basket from seizing themselves together. Once that adjustment is set then you can adjust your cable. if you cant get any more adjustment you might just need some new clutch plates.

I tried some different things today and got the miss and sputtering out at last. I went all the way around the cure before finally lowering the needles one clip position and leaning the air screws 1/2 turn. All is good now, it transitions from idle to mid range and to the power without any missing or cutting out.

My mods are listed here. Aggressive dune port job, .040 overbore , FMF gold series exhaust , K&N filters and stock carbs with 340 mains and 30 pilots. I have the timing set at +4 running 93 pump gas, and im on the coast at sea level.

Ive got a slight miss that sounds like a rich sputter when i start to push the throttle off the bottom. It starts just as it transitions from pilot to needle, im thinking its either the needle is in too high of a position or my pilots are too big. Im running small needles in the middle clip and size 30 pilots. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Ive noticed that my carbs have been requiring a lot more attention than any carbs ive had in the past. They are frequently needing the pilot passages cleaned out, and when i take them apart there is a lot of white chalky looking residue all over the inside of the carbs. Any input on this would be appreciated Thanks

Sounds like the pilot jet or passages have an obstruction on that cylinder. Take out the pilot jet with a small straight screw driver and spray cleaner through the passage until you have cleaner coming through both of the exit holes in the barrel of the carb. There are two small holes in the barrel,,one is straight through to the pilot passage and the other is angled and also goes into the pilot hole. Once you get a spray coming through both then you can spray through the jet and then screw the jet back into the hole and try that. Also take out your idle air screw and jet. They can cause problems too and you do the same thing to them. The idle air jet screws out the same way and the air screw also needs to come out and spray through the passages as well. I just had the same exact problem not long ago.

Makes since to use the same one because whether its right or not your base number is what counts and any less on the next test will indicate wear. Yea its making more since to me now, Thanks for the advice and wisdom.

Thats what i was thinkin too. Thanks for the input to help me confirm, Its always good to have a second word of wisdom.

Ive gotten different readings from different gauges on the same engine within two hours of run time. Each gauge reads the same as it did before so my compression is the same but why do the gauges read so different from each other? Does the length of the insert need to be the same as the spark plug shank? The gauges ive tried have had different lengths and im thinkin that could be the reason for the difference in readings. The one thats the same length as the spark plug gave me a 140psi reading and thats the one im going with. The other gauge had a shorter insert and gave me a 125psi reading. Any input on this would be helpful. Thanks

After i price out the parts and add up the numbers ill probably wanna invest in some slim fast and possibly work out equip. Aftermarket shit for this banshee is about as pricey as parts for my car and even pricier sometimes. Thanks for the response