maskmanLS6

It might have aftermarket needles in the carbs which are shorter with a different taper than stock. If so they can make your mixture rich. Try cleaning the carbs real good first, make sure you spray through the pilot passages including the tiny one thats at an angle you can see in the carb barrel. You need to remove the jets before you spray, and also take your choke plunger out and spray the passages for it as well. Dont be greedy with the carb spray, then try the bike again. If the problem is still there then try lowering your needle one clip position. If that improves it but doesnt completely fix the problem then keep moving it down until it gets to where your happy. And i would recommend a 250 or 260 main at least. After you get it running like you want it to then do a plug chop to make sure your mixture isnt too extreme either way.

When you say air screws all the way ,do you mean all the way in or out? Your pilot passages may be clogged.

Let me know if you decide to sell the 33s, Im looking for a set to use on a build im fixing to start.

Ill look and see, I havent looked at them real close. They were givin to me and just been sitting for a long while.

So the bigger carbs will use the same type jets but the smaller size? Thats just the opposite of what i would think, I have a whole set of mikuni main jets for the stock carbs all the way down to some 260s and up to 380s. Are the pilots the same type in the 34mm?

No they are round slides, They were used for alky at one time and have power jets in them right now. I plan to get rid of the power jets before i put em on.

Im going from stock carbs to 34mm mikuni and need to know where to start with jetting. Im using 30 pilots and 340 mains in the stock carbs. What jets will be close to that with the bigger carbs?

Yes the seem in the cases is your point indicator, Turn your timing plate until you get the desired amount of timing lined up with the case seem and tighten your plate back down. Be careful that you go the right direction with your plate because most of them go from -10 to +10 .

Im looking to switch from stock carbs to a set of 34mm mikuni, I have ported cylinders and running 30 pilots with 340 mains. What would be a good starting point on jetting the bigger carbs, I have noticed that the jet sizes for the bigger carbs are numbered smaller. Thats what has me kinda confused on how to jet the bigger carbs. Need some advice here. Thanks

How good of fuel are you talking about?

You can feel a difference,, i noticed more on the top end.

I noticed a gain in the top end, not sure about the 100mph though. Considering bumping up compression and running some 100ll and trying +6 on timing to see what gains are in that, should be a good jump in power i hope.

I know that slower burning fuels can require a timing advance,, im running 93 pump gas and just using the advanced timing for some extra ponies. I would just like to know where the benefits are with pump gas. I understand that race fuel is more suited for higher timing and will deliver more power but where at ? Top end or bottom end?

Check your cable at the bottom,,it might have came loose.

Im gonna risk getting scalded and ask a question thats probably been asked 100000000 times on here. I have my timing set at +4 with a Dune port and 140 psi compression, I have heard several different opinions on the benefits of advanced timing and the risk. I would like to hear the facts as to where the power gain is at in the power band, Im hearing from some people that the gain is on the bottom end but i always felt more gain on top end. Any input would be cool.

I pulled them all out one at a time,,then put them back in after i wiped them down and dipped them in the oil i put back in it. Its workin better but still not as good as i think it should.

I took my clutch out and couldnt really see anything wrong and the ATF still looked fine. I went ahead and changed it to a 30 wt motor oil until i can get to the parts barn and get some lucas light weight gear oil. Its doing better now but still gets a little sticky when cold, im gonna try a couple more things and post my results. But you were right about the plates not being dry, they were still plenty wet even after sitting overnight. thanks

Im having the same problem,,its worse when its cold. When i put it in gear it slams and lunges forward. It loosens up as soon as its rolling and works ok till it sits and gets cold again. Please let me know when you get it fixed and ill try to keep you posted as well. Im planning to pull my clutch tomorrow and get it straightened out.

Thats good to know.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? FMF Gold Series w PC2 2) What type of airfilter do you have? Modified K&N Filters 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all D 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) Sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 30 6) What size main jets are you using? 340 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 70-90F 8) Do you have a port job? Aggressive Dune port Advance machine shop in Pa. 9) What kind of carbs? Stock 10) What size carbs? 26 for the moment. Thanks! <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">

Great idea here,,,keep it going.

How does your triple exhaust port job compare with a dune port? If its close to a dune port then i would start with a 340 main and 30 pilots with needles in the middle clip position. That should put you in the ball park. You should ask the person that ported the cylinders about jetting as well.

You will have to split the cases,,that sux .

Since its coming out the exhaust pretty good ,,you should poor the gas down the exhaust about a quart, rock it back and forth then let it sit for a few minutes then dump it out again. You should be ok to try to crank it up after.

Prepare for a case splittin,,,,that seal aint comin out or goin back in any other way.