maskmanLS6

First thing you should do is try to thin the oil to make it drain faster and easier. Take a gallon jug of gas and poor into the cylinders,,,give it about an hour to mix with the oil and then try dumping it out .You dont have to poor the whole gallon in it but you need at least a couple of quarts to dilute the oil. That way you wont have to wait days for it to poor out and you wont foul plugs as bad when you start it up.

Try going down one size on your main, if that cures it then start raising your needle until its too rich again. Once your there then you can just lower your needle back down one clip pos. and you should be close to the best performance.

Looks like oil or tranny smoke, If it were your pre mix i would think it would clear up some once under a load and warm. Keep your eye on the tranny fluid level cause i think your burning more than gas on that side. Having one side jetted might cause it too but thats alot of smoke for even jetting to cause.

Have you checked your needle clip positions? I had a problem recently with a bottom end miss and it turned out i had the needles set too high and was running too rich right off idle. I have stock carbs so i dont know much about the carbs your running but it might pay to try lowering your needles one clip position and try it.

Your jetting will be way rich with 340 mains, without port work you should stay with a 300 or below i would think. You might go with a 27.5 pilot also but thats questionable, as for the head work i would look into milling the stock head but thats just me.

Thats all anyone could ask for, and more than most would offer.

I was thinking that if the piston would have been put in backwards that the engine would have shown obvious signs and wouldnt have ran for shit. Hard to believe he wouldnt have noticed something seriously wrong before ousting the rod. And i think your right about the picture too. Looking at the way the metal is pushed out on the piston it would have been turned to the exhaust side where the rod was being slung into it.

Thats what i said when i opened the box and saw mine. I was pleased.

Port work will do wonders for your engine,, i just had my stock cylinders ported with a stock stroke crank and i couldnt believe the improvement.

that would be the one,,so far so good with mine.

Just the thought that who ever makes them goes through the extra process to polish them and also the vitos name is cast into them. It doesnt serve any purpose but just says they go that extra step for the money you spend on it. The rods are a different shape too, They arent tapered down toward the top and appeared to be the same thickness and width all the way through. I personally dont have alot of experience with any banshee cranks because this is my first build, but so far im happy with the engine and wouldnt change anything.

I liked the crank i got from vitos,, The rods were polished and appeared to be a decent quality. It was cheaper than the hot rods crank ( 350.00 ) and was welded and had keyed webs. I hope it proves to be money well spent because i tied up a chunk of change on my engine, Ide be sick if it failed and trashed my whole engine. There are alot of the cheaper cranks running in engines without problems and im sure there will be plenty more in the future. But as it was stated here you can also find cases where the best cranks available have done the same thing, I think if you research what you buy first you can make the best choice for your application and have a good chance at getting the best service for your money. But with anything thats produced on a large scale, there will always be a lemon from time to time.

Any faulty part can fail without needing any thing else to be wrong. Just judging from the pictures and what he said. Cheap parts fail in alot of applications without operator error.

Best of luck to you on your new build, I hope this one works out better for you. I honestly would build it myself again because you will pay closer attention this round, not that the assembly was the problem before. I think the rod simply failed under stress and could have happened to anyone. If your assembly had been the problem i think the rod would have shown signs of heat or excess wear at the bearing. You will have more satisfaction building it yourself and you can always call out for advice or info if you have any doubts.

The rod probably just failed due to stress. If the bearing was going bad and tightening up the rod would have gotten hot and would show some signs of heat. Those rods have a bad reputation for stress failures. I hope you have better luck with your next set up,,That really sux to have your whole engine wiped out by a 40 dollar rod. If your going with a 4mil ide try a vitos crank, they seem to be a good piece and are affordable.

Hard to tell,,is the bottom of the rod blue or really dark compared to the other side? If so then the rod may have seized and broke due to bearing failure. If not then the bearing probably got damaged when the rod was trashing your engine.

Thanks for the input,,,My crank is the one advertised on ebay for 350.00. Vitos claims its the strongest available, It was welded with keyed webs so i was pleased when i received it. Its got polished rods with vitos cast into the side of them and are a different shape then the other rods ive seen. I hope its a quality piece and dont smash my cases to pieces.

No doubt,,I saw this post and got worried about my vitos crank and posted a topic on them. I hope i get positive opinions about them after spending the cash to build my engine. I dont know enough about the different rods to judge them but so far ive heard and read nothing but bad about the 29LR series rods.

Im puttin some hard hours on mine too, hope it hangs in there.

So far its been fine, The rods were a shiny polished set and not the bronze rods that every body dislikes. I hope it holds up cause i cant afford a rod failure like the guy from the post i read earlier. It smashed the hell out of his whole engine.

After seeing the damage from a broken crank in another post im worried about the crank i have because i chose it without having any experience with them. I chose the vitos crank because its welded and keyed already. Im wanting to know if anyone has had any good or bad experiences with them.

In that case just build a stock stroke mildly ported stock cylinder engine. It will be plenty quick and dependable, with some bolt on mods to compliment the port work like properly jetted carbs ,,adjustable timing plate,,good reeds and filter and some good exhaust.

Make sure the holes are dry and oil free when you tighten them down. Also the screws need to be clean and free of any oil as well, The oil will cause the screws to tighten much further before reaching the torque pounds that the manual calls for. I would go ahead and replace the parts and screws if you have doubts about them. And the HD springs arent gonna have much affect on torque when you put them back.

You Might as well take the trans and other parts out of those cases and start from scratch. That cylinder might be salvaged but those cases and crank are junk. Thats the worst rod slingin ive seen yet!!!!!

I agree 100% on that, This sight has enough sponsors to take care of pretty much any need your gonna have for your bike.