Azryll

I think your really like your bike with pipes, it will really wake it up. As far as which pipes to get it depends on your riding style. Since you didn't plan on modifying it I'll recommend some good mid pipes, FMF, Pro Circuits, and Toomeys. I personally like Pro circuits over FMF but both work well, If you want a little more top end pull go with Toomey. You can get a good used set for 200-300 bucks usually. Air filters are a easy cheap mod. If your staying out of the mud and water go with K&N, if you plan to ride where its wet I'd go with a Uni (foam type filter plus they're cheaper) and either run with your airbox lid off or drill some holes it it. If you do either of these mods you will need to rejet your carbs, if you don't feel comfortable take it to a shop after you put the pipes and filters on. It usually cost 50-100 bucks for them to rejet it. Have fun with your new toy.

A couple guys I used to ride with have Ace swing arms and they loved them, they are built good and stood up to lots of jumping (nothing crazy but decent sized flyouts), I havn't seen the A-arms but if they're built like the swing arms they should be good. With that said everyone here seems to love Stellar stuff and will probably be with what I go with since I've never heard anything bad about them.

When I put them on my bike I didn't notice anymore power really (even if it did give or couple HP or not I think it would be hard to tell without a dyno), but as Zilla said I really noticed it on throttle response and how much crisper it felt to me. I'm only running a 4mil so it might be different with a more/less modded engine.

Just what fouled said, some quads use a parking brake and its just a liability thing. Using a lever to pull a clutch on a motorcycle or ATV is the same concept.

My buddy went to Florence this weekend and he was saying they started putting signs up on the trails you can't ride.

Thx for the pics of the MSR Raptor, I was about to buy one then I started reading other reviews on how some people had issues with them. Most likely because when people are happy with a product they don't spend the time to comment but when your pissed cause it breaks and such they vent. I think I'll end up getting the MSR but still happy to read more opinions of others if you want to comment on the thread. I realize that the one I linked as well is a stubby as someone else had mentioned, but they do offer a non stubby for other applications besides stunt bikes. As I said in my post on another forum it seemed like others really liked it but was hoping someone here might have tried it on a banshee with HD springs. My cable and everything are good. The stock pull isn't unbearable by any means I just would like to do some comfort mods. Sorry for the brick of text lol, and thx for the help/opinions.

I'm looking for a new lever w/perch and was looking at another forum and lots of people were hyping up this lever http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/. Has anyone here tried it or know of other good ones? I seen Fast has one and been checking out MSR Pro Raptor, the MSR seems to have mixed reviews from what I read. It works well but people were saying it breaks pretty easy. I know ASV makes quality stuff but I didn't see any ez pull levers and thats what im looking for since I have HD springs and no lockout atm. Any input to help me decide would be appreciated.

If you google maps the address the business is called "Auction It". Heres a link to their site My link.

Actually it does have corrosion prevention, you may be thinking of water wetter. I've used Engine ice it for years and never had issues.

Get some engine ice when you get a new impeller. Shouldn't be an issue if you keep moving, they usually just get hot if you are idle for a bit. Might want to check your jetting as well, if your running lean your engine will run hot.

I love Chuck, he always tries to put on a show and knock his opponent out. I'll take that over a fight where a fighter just lays on top of the other guy cause all he can do is wrestle. I agree he probably should of retired a couple fights ago but I would be surprised if he comes out of retirement for another run.

JL Engineering makes V bars but 7/8 as well. I would give him or Cascade a call if you really want the V-bar and Im sure they can custom make a set if your willing to pay a little bit more.

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Those look like 2005 SE plastics to me

I used Super techniplate at 36:1. Its kinda a odd mix ratio but I seen lots of people running 40:1 with no issues so I had to build my confidence up that it was okay. This time around I will be going 40:1 once I figure out what brand I will run. I wonder if I had the gumming issue because it was cold, I always mix the gas well and shake the shit out of my tank before starts so I know that wasn't an issue.

My new motor should be back together next week sometime and its time to pick a oil. I've used Klotz, Silkolene, and Amsoil in the past. I've had Klotz gunk up on me so I prefer the other two but they are getting harder and harder to come by. I checked out a couple local shops and they both carry Torco and Redline. I've heard Redline is good but eats brass in the carbs (Anyone else heard or had issues with this?) so I was leaning to the Torco but I have never heard of it except for what the people behind the counter said. Its a little pricey but I don't mind paying more for good stuff. What are your experiences with it?j If I have to I'll just order some Amsoil online but I prefer to be able to get it locally in case I run out (Don't want to mix oil brands).

thx for the replies, think im gonna go for bead to bead then.

hmm maybe ill just get 22x11x8 10 paddle on standard buff then. The paddles I have now I outgrew after I finished my engine

so they only offer two buffs then, the standard buff and all the other names listed are the same?

I'm trying to decide what buffs to get and I was told there are 3 different kinds: 1. Standard Buff 2. Bead to Bead 3. Superlights/tripple buffs/Ultralights So I guess my question are the superlights, tripple buffs and ultralights really all the same? Are those three different/that much lighter than the bead to bead? How easy do they puncture because I like to hit up the tree shots?

I don't think you usually have to rejet for just reeds. I would play with the air screws a bit, just do them evenly on both carbs. I would also check your throttle cables and carbs to make sure their clean as well.

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Go with a Noss style cool head then, you can change the domes with ease, make the engine a little cooler and you dont have to swap out the studs like Pro Designs. A couple months ago I ordered one from Chariot Performance for around 165 give or take (You will still have to buy domes) and it works perfect and is less expensive than most aftermarket heads. Look him up on Ebay.

At the beginning of summer I decided to get a new pair of boots, my Alpinestar tech 5's were at least 5 season old and beat up. I wanted to try a half boot, looked up some reviews online then headed to a couple local shops where I tried tech 2's, Thor 50/50's, Fly's, Axo slammers and a couple other brands (Didn't try Sidi or Gaerne half boots because I wanted to stay under $200 bucks). So after trying them all on I really like the Fox's and I was hesitant to buy them because I don't ever buy Fox gear(Not cause they dont make good stuff but because everyone has Fox shit even if they don't ride). I've had them for about two months and they are all broke in and I love them. I wish I got the half boots sooner, I still feel protected but these are much more comfortable to ride in. If your looking for new half boots I would check these out especially if you have some chicken legs like me. Alot of the boots I tried wont let me get them snug up top. I would give them a 4/5 just because people with larger legs probably wont be able to get the top strap closed but it you have skinny legs like me they fit like a glove.

If I were you I would get cut domes for your coolhead, if your running stock head then I would get it milled instead of using the spacer. Not only can you get the compression right were you want it but the spacer is just a extra gasket to that can leak. I believe its pretty close to the same price either way, most charge about 65 for standard domes and 85 for cut ones.