Azryll

I have one and I would have to agree with Rubber. Honestly I wish I just got a temp sensor but the milage stuff is cool to see how far you went and mpg. The tach is not accurate but who is looking at that anyway when they ride. If you like the gauge trail tech makes a few different models or buy a nice inline gauge.

Ya, I drove all the way from Hillsboro lol. Their all lots of other shops closer but I wanted to try a Redline motor this time. It runs hard and Cam has great customer service which goes a long way with me.

We have some pretty good shops here in Oregon. I've had White Knuckle and Redline both build my stuff and both turned out great. Redline has better pricing and has good customer service. We talked a bit before he built my engine, was great about keeping me updated, and can answer any questions you have. I wouldn't hesitate to take it to Cam, you won't be disappointed.

X2, throw in some HD springs and it will last for awhile.

I use Gear Saver 80 wt tranny oil, a cheaper alternative is ATF type F. With the ATF you will have to change the oil more often. A 60mm bore with a 4mm crank would be about 328cc's but a stock banshee has a 64mm bore. A stock bore with 4mm crank is 373cc's and they make a good duners, however what really determines the performance is porting on the motor.

Punctuation is your friend. If you want to know what crank you have you need to open up the motor. The stock tranny is a 6 speed, so if its only a 5 speed you most likely have a override transmission. Buy a quality brand two stroke oil and mix 32:1 or 40:1 imo.

I've never used them, I would just get some PWK's and call it a day, they work great and if you ever need any parts for them they are easy to find.

orange and black

Are you still running TORS? If I remember right removing the parking brake makes the TORS system run like crap so you have to splice them, if you TORS is already off just unplug it at the box.

What kinda trails are they? Like somewhat open or super tight? If they are really tight bigger than a 4mil might be to much. Also for the price of building a 7mil you can build a 10mil. Just depends on what you want, a really good trail bike, a good drag bike, or something in between that does decent at both but is not optimal for either. Without knowing what your "trails" are like or how often you do them I would lean toward the 4mil only because its a good all around motor (less expensive to build and you can still beat most 4 strokes). You can get 70-75 hp pretty easy but not have so much power you'll need a huge swingarm. You'll never be able to use the all the power of the other motors on the trails. If you plan on doing lots of dragging or have large open areas go bigger.

T5's are good for stock/ported motors but people on here were saying they don't run very well on a serval. 05stroker used Pro circuits on his serval, they used a Eddy brake vs a tradition dyno so its hard to compare the numbers. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140719&st=45 I dunno if anyone else has used Pro circuits on a dyno but I would like to see those numbers. I've use both Pro circuits and T5's on my 4 mil stock ported motor and like them both. The Pro circuits come on a little sooner but both work well for all types of riding. If you want more top end go with some CPI or R2's they are nice pipes.

I have the TM one and it fits good, I've never tried a 16t on it tho. You should be able to get it for around 50 bucks shipped. The place you linked was overpriced.

As far as gas I just run pump premium from Chevron, just don't get some cheap Arco gas. If you want race fuel, Hillsboro Motorosports and Bob Lampheres Beaverton Honda sells them in 5 gallon jugs. I know there is a small cycle shop that sells race gas by the gallon and its cheaper that way. I don't remember the name offhand but next time I drive by it (which is all the time) I'll PM you the name of it.

I would so be there but I already have plans to go camping at sand lake this weekend. If I didn't have friends meeting us out there I would make the drive. I'll have to pay more attention to the ride events so I can make the next one, or if any of you just want to get a smaller group together anytime I'm always down to ride.

Whats your price range and do you want half boots or full boots? I personally like the half boot because they are easier to shift with and more comfortable to me riding a atv. They give decent protection but not quite as much as a full boot. I have Fox comp S and Alpinestars tech 2 and like them both alot. When I went shopping for half boots I tried about 5 or 6 brand and they were by far the most comfortable. I did not try sidi or gaerne tho because they were more than I wanted to spend. You should go to a couple local shops and try them on to see what you like best imo.

I'm from Hillsboro down by T.V highway and goto the dunes a couple times a month weather permitting. I'll go ride with ya

I just picked up a pair of STU razor backs really cheap and need to buy some rims for them. I read that STU recommends a 4+3 offset and was curious if thats what you guys are running them on. My concerns are bumpsteer and them rubbing on my balljoints/a arms which wont allow my to turn.

rims for 50-75% off. Just got some blue labels 8x8 for 25 bucks each http://www.motosport.com/atv/category/Tire-and-Wheels/Wheels/?tid=true&cRefine=Clearance%3AClearance

If you were to use the newer aftermarket yfz 450r style shock thats 18.25 inches long on long travel style arms (I know that there is no true long travel on the banshee with out serious modding) will that work as good as a long travel shock the same length? Is there a difference between the 18.25 450r's long shock compared to a true long travel shock the same length and so what is it? I don't mean to jack the thread but seems relative.

I've been debating the same thing, right now I have 20 inch 8 paddles on my 4 mil and I spin the shit out of them (I know you want some spin but not this much) and when it does finally grip all it wants to do is come up. I like to do the same riding as you with the tree shots and most people I have seen use a +4 22 inch 9 paddles or a +6 22 inch 10 paddle. I'm leaning towards the +6 for some of the really steep shit and others I have asked said there is not much of a turn difference between the two once you get used to it.

I painted mine with some 1200 degree stove paint http://forrestpaint.com/index.php?page=stove-bright-retail-store, before I painted I used Rustoleum 2000 degree primer (they also have 2000 degree paint) and I havn't had any issues. After I painted it I warmed it up pretty good to bake on the paint, then let it cool all the way down and its been holding up real well (never got tacky or peeled) so like Cam said you might be lean or maybe the paint isn't that good.

I've had the Upp intakes without the boost hole. I havn't tried any others so I can't tell you if theres a power difference but Cam from Redline told me they work just as good others. They have been holding up well and I have no complaints plus I like that they are black.

You can order one offline or if you have a local bike shop you should be able to order a chain breaker really cheap. I think I paid like 13 bucks for mine. If you dont want to buy anything you can use a grinder like Loco said. Just make sure you don't cut it to short cause its a bitch to add a link. Also make sure your cutting the right link (should be taking off the outter link so you are left with a inner link on each side to you can put the master link on).

Sweet, glad you finally got it running banshee's are lots of fun. Post some pics.

If your on a budget you can always add another peg (or more it you want) for under 15 bucks. I just went with two cause it looks better than tripple wide imo and is a hell of alot sturdier.