Starwriter

I had a thought on this subject the other day. If you suspect a PTO side crank seal leak, couldn't you put another pressure gauge in the vent line and watch for a pressure buildup as the pressure drops on your leakdown? Of coarse if you're still running 2 vents, the other one would need to be plugged or teed in. Since the gearbox/ clutch cover volume is so much, you may need to pump up your leakdown a few times. This is all just theory. If no one has actually tried it, let's have someone try it and see if it works as an approved procedure. If you don't let the pressure build up more than 1 pound it shouldn't hurt anything, right?

Cable luber FTW http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0182

Also on mine, I stuck a stainless allen bolt through the hole in the cover where the vent hose used to exit near the water pump and put a nut on the inside with loctite. I forgot to do it before I put the cover on, but I was able to put it in afterwards. I didn't want the area behind the water pump cover filling up with sand.

You need to post what year you have. There are a few different connectors. OOPS! Didn't look back at the title. Nevermind.

While you have the cover off, pound the vent out. Pound it towards the inside. Throw it away. Block off the hole with this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c90ebeb8 Cap off the open spout on the tee near the carbs or replace the hose with a new longer hose and eliminate the tee. You only need the rear transmission vent. One less hose to clutter things up.

Everything you ever wanted to know. http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/pwk.php

I thought of that too. That maybe it's a no link swinger that somebody flipped over and then remounted the chain guide bracket. But... The left side of the pivot tube is supposed to stick out farther than the right side, and you can see that is correct. No link swingers have the shock mount on the bottom. Link swingers have the mount on the top.

Blaster pegs fit. You'll need a spacer for 1 bolt on the right side. Don't know how it works out with the kick starter though. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25027 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87363

I had one where a 2 foot crescent wrench wouldn't bust the nut loose. I hit the point of the nut with an air chisel and spun it right off.

You mean hit the goobers? Maybe the goober constructor was running a strut.

You're missing the connector link piece. Somebody sure goobered in that wheelie bar mount.

Saw this and got to thinking, Does the countershaft seal have a rib like the crank seals? Just looked at a set of cases. Nope, no groove in the cases. So, not a problem to tap in a new seal without splitting the cases. Someone on here mentioned to sprinkle flour or baby powder or something like that on the area to find out exactly where the oil is, and where it's not. Also, it's very common for the shift shaft seal to leak. Cheap and easy to replace.

It's not, but stock intakes with clamps and crossover tube for $30 shipped is an OK deal. Retail on the intakes is $25 each, crossover tube is $17 and spring clamps are $6 each.

I have a checking/debit account just for paypal and online transactions. I keep about $20 in it. I don't even own checks for that account. If I want to buy something, I just go to the bank and deposit cash, or go online and transfer funds from my other account. I use the debit card for places that don't accept paypal. That way if someone online tries to screw me, they're only gonna get about $20.

No. Sounds like you need to PM this guy. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145899

Have you seen the 02 to 06 tail/brake light? It's HUGE. I just sold my 05 shee. I'm going to put a working brake light on my older Shees, but I'm definitely not going with a big light. It may be possible to put a different bulb socket in the older housing. I haven't looked at one yet to see if it's possible.

Stock didn't come with a boost bottle. As mentioned, throw it away. This is what stock looks like.

You mean billet? A billet basket will have machining marks on all surfaces and generally all sharp corners. Most billet baskets are anodized some color, but not all are. Stock baskets have rounded edges and are bare silver. Be sure to inspect the fingers for grooves.

Yes. "Also, is there supposed to be any play at all in the idler gear?" A tiny amount of wobble is OK. Noticeable up and down play, probably not. How loose is too loose? Dunno. Never had to replace an idler gear bushing. Some people on here have had to though.

No, it's inside the clutch cover. Drain the coolant, drain the trans oil, pull the clutch cover. Problem should be obvious at that point. If you keep riding it, and that bolt really is broken off, sooner or later that bolt is gonna go bang, clatter, clatter, crunch, kapow. Technical terms for the equivalent of jamming a tire iron into the bicycle spokes.

I've got this one. It appears to be silver annodized. If you're gonna polish it, you're gonna need to strip the annodizing off with oven cleaner. $15 shipped.

Jeez! Your dealer sucks! These are common parts that all dealers should carry. Maybe not the impeller, but they should carry everything else. Post your location. Maybe someone here can let you know where there's a decent dealer near you. I assume by dirty jrz you mean New Jersey. Isn't that just across the bridge from NY city? Surely there's a decent dealer in NY city. I personally like dealing with Cascade Innovations, but they're only about 120 miles from me. They will stock everything you need, but shipping will probably be expensive for overnight.

It doesn't take much coolant to turn the trans oil milky. You may not notice the level going down. Replace the water tube o ring, water pump bearing and seal. Inspect the water pump shaft for a groove where the seal runs. Yes you will need a new clutch cover gasket and water pump gasket. I like to leave the water pump cover off while I'm installing the clutch cover. Spin the impeller to get the teeth to mesh. Kick the motor over to make sure the impeller is turning.

I hope like hell you're going to cut off all the unneeded brackets off the frame before you send it off. Stock pipe rubber bumper mounts,tors box mount, foot basket mounts, air box mounts if you're running pods, etc. It just floors me when I see a freshly powder coated frame with the stock pipe rubber bumper mounts. What, someday you might want to put the stock pipes back on? That's about as dumb as the people on eBay that want $250 for stock pipes, thinking they're giving you a bargain compared to retail. Oh, and plan on replacing the lower steering stem bearing and seals while it's apart. It's only $15 for all 3 parts.

Those plugs are for the ends of the shift fork shafts. If you need a new plug, the yamaha part number is 90334-10006. Will definitely leak tranny fluid without it. Would be good to replace the shift shaft seal while you're in that area. Part number 93102-12321-00. Very common leak point. Your shifting problem is probably a broken shift shaft ecentric bolt. Part number 90149-08256. Has nothing to do with the flat tire. You really need to get a Clymer manual. It will help tremendously in your repairs.