SuprSlow50

Rear spacers/hubs are sold. still have the front spacers and the stock axle for sale.

Zilla, I believe they are the G-force hubs and they are +3" each, not together.

The only thing I may not have is the lug nuts, but you can reuse the ones that you have...I would look for them, but I hit a deer on my R1 Easter night and have broken femur, hip, pelvis, and collarbone so it's not so easy for me to get to the garage and search for stuff otherwise I would.

Yes, I have the washers and spacers in my toolbox and everything is in good or like new condition....just don't need a +4 axle and these rear hubs, just a little too wide for me!

Front hubs - $50 shipped Rear hubs - $50 shipped Stock axle -$100 shipped. This axle is straight and has no problems, I just put a g-force +4 on my shee to match the added with of the a-arms and I have no use for the stock axle.

I had them on my 421 Cub when I bought it, and they sounded great....prollly one of the best sounding pipes IMHO, but they didn't match the powerband of the Cub so I got a set of CPI's...I too was a Toomey fan and actually have the T6's on my other shee, but I would rather have the DMC's, they just sound better and look better especially when you have the sparkies in the T6's. I would say get a set and you'll be happy

My one buddy might be looking for a set of fronts but I'm not sure, I'll ask him and let you know... bump for a good guy! ....when we going back to the badlands??

why you sell?

So when are we all going back to the Badlands and who's all going to St Joes??

next in line for pics...

can I get some pics of the reed spacers? Do you have the bolts to go with them?

G-force Front 1" wheel spacers - $60 shipped G-force Rear 3" wheel spacers -$65 shipped Front hubs powder coated blue with rotors- $60 shipped Front Calipers - $75 shipped Master cylinder with brake lever - $50 shipped Spindles -$50 shipped

No confusion, I was just trying to help the OP, I had the same problem with posting pics until I figured out you have to change the IMG to img.

leaving now, later than expected, be on the lookout for a white f250 with 3 banshees...it all our first time out here so it would be great if someone could show us around

I'm pretty sure the "img" at the beginning and end of the link needs to be in lower case or it won't work... bump

I'll be heading down there with 2-3 other people, so save a spot for us! Would it be better to have an open sled trailer or the enclosed, or does it not matter?

I am interesed in the paddles, do you still have them? What is the condition of the rims, are there any dents/bends/scratches? How about the paddles, any patches or plugs in them?

Just wondering if you are parting it out now or still have it complete?

I am pretty sure I got mine off ebay for 180 shipped from cascade, so I would imagine they would back up the warranty too...but I haven't bumped into a tree with it yet!

A-arms are sold...still have everything else

if you want to send me the pics I can upload them on here for you.

Why not port the cylinders instead??

I chopped the threads on the leaner of the two plugs, take a look at the fuel ring. I could be wrong, but I don't think that it is too far off??

Snop...I am curious how you cannot read leaded fuel. In doing my plug chop search on BHQ, I read a lot of posts where you say it "washes down the plug" or "The toluene in the gas will not cause an accurate reading." I am confused on this because of my background in drag racing, when tuning a nitrous motor on C16, you still do a plug chop to check the fuel ring. I have been doing this for years (drag racing, not 2-strokes) and I only run straight c-16, the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain will usually be a grey bc of the fuel (i think) but the thickness and darkness would tell you right away if it was lean or rich. Can I not use that fuel ring as a guide in a 2-stroke? Just trying to learn as much as possible. Also, since the right cylinder has a little less compression, I noticed that plug also has a little more color. Can I put a larger main in the left cylinder so that they are running the same. Again, the reason I ask is because normally we would adjust fuel, nitrous, and/or timing per cylinder so that all plugs would look the same. And so we wouldn't burn the motor down because of the leanest cylinder. Or would it be better to run bigger jets in both cylinders?