sprinklerman

Makes no sense^ Why should he ship to you, then you get everything from someone else ( more shipping) then you assemble and ship back to him? All the engine builders on here would take his engine,completely tear it down,upgrade whatever he wants , and some would even dyno tune it,then ship him back a complete running motor. I don't see where you fit in , in that scenario. See, now,if something goes bad,who pick up the tab? You? The builder who sent the parts? See where your customer ( as you put call him) is getting less for their money? And i find it VERY convenient that you are & have been doing port-work,and then you conveniently pop up to "help" a "customer" by being the middle man when he wants some engine work done. What a convenient & economical way to get your hands on something other than a race logic template. If that's how you want to go bout it,that's fine, i really don't care, I'm just trying to help out future new guys to go about dealing with reputable shops ,,the right way. No middle-men. There's no need for it.

Ha! All of it.

I have that Stellar +10" link style swinger that was on my bike. Text me sometime today if interested.

^^ Perfect proportion of black and white. VERY nice looking! The shape of the graphics complement the curves of the Full Bore plastics too.

Not dogging you, but from what ive gathered from some of your posts, you really don't " know these engines like the back of your hand" like you said above....and that's fine,,everybody starts somewhere, i understand that. I say that because some of your previous posts of "port work" were simply Race Logic template copies. ..and thats fine too. But to make it sound like you " know these engines like that back of your hand" is giving people like the O.P. a distorted view of your engine building expertise and skill . Besides that here's the kicker: What Ive gathered this go around, is that the OP is paying for you to have a site sponsor do the port & head mods, then you get to see and copy their work and start your own little side thing, eh? Seems kind of funky to me. But whatever, its between you and your "customer" the OP. In all fairness many a shop has stole ideas from other shops by buying some of their product and copying ,,i realize that. I just made this post so that if a future member comes on here looking for engine work,maybe they'll find this post and deal direct with a site sponsor instead of take up an "offer" from a guy who's trying to learn on their dime.

Link or no link?

Still +2" though.

What measurements do you need? Just order a + 2" swinger,bolt it on , and rip!!

Pick a builder you like and do what THEY say,not what people on Facebook or other anonymous people on forums say. Its really that simple if you want whats best. It'll make your life so much easier.

Ive noticed lately that your jokes and quips have been gradually getting less and less witty. Step up your game man! You were doing good there for a while!

Huh?

Could be a worn or dry cable. Or a sticky slide too. Also make sure the needle retainer/ cable holders are installed properly. The "open" side allows it to vent supposedly.

^^ New acronym now?

^^^^And THAT is what matters the most IMO. If a setup runs good out in the race scene you are competing in,that's what matters the most. Surely don't want to live and die by dyno #'s.

Pro Circuit

A lot of mis-information ,,,that's what forums can be for too. That's why you call a builder and they set you up with what is good,or they have to make it good. People on forums can just spout off whatever regurgitated info they have ,,good or bad...who's going to be able to hold them responsible? Take your pick.

Pump some pressure to it and spray around the boots with Windex. If it bubbles,you have leak.

I agree with this.^^^ Pick a builder who is familiar with Cheetahs & PV's if you plan on keeping them and you'll be happy. I also understand what people have said about the power- to- CC ratio of a Cheetah vs std Cub cyls. An alky 10mm/535 Cheetah should make 120HP on Alky,,,but 10mm Cubs on alky get real close to that as well. For sure within 5 HP. So a lot of it depends what you are planning to do with the motor. I wouldn't get into chasing numbers (like the example i used, 5hp) unless its a full on , nothing but, drag bike. As far as PV vs non PV in a drag race, i'll leave that up to those who have experience in using both.

Find one?

I'd ask N2o where he would take it. Also, if the original shops couldn't fix it the 1st time( and these bikes are too easy to fix, thankfully) why do you think they can this time? Its such a clean bike,,why let 200.00 keep it from running right,or worse,blow it up and cost more?? Chalk up the first 300.00 to a lesson learned and move on.

Instead of arguing with N2o,you should stop and think for a second about what he said....he actually gave you the BEST advise out of ALL the posts in this thread. You DID start this thread looking for help right? Cut your losses with those dealer/ individuals and actually GET YOUR BIKE FIXED...by heeding his advise. And you are mistaken, if those "mechanics " you hired couldn't fix it then they are complete 'TARDS and you wasted money with them...these things are so basic its not even funny. There are any number of GOOD shops in your area that can have that thing running ASAP. Also quite a few members on here that live in your general area that could do the same. Think about listening to the best advice you received here.

Have to agree with Cam here. ^^^ Whatever he did with the lil 350 he brought to the HQ ride must have worked,because he was giving the duner bikes a 50yd headstart and still stanky-legging them at the end of the strip...and Cams no lightweight. Itll take LOTS of TQ to move his big 'ol butt around like that.

Just buy new , Mr. moneybags.

Looks great. If you want to finish that edge nice, take a heat gun and slightly melt the edges,,they will loose the rough texture and get glossy and smooth like a factory edge.

Just for future reference, Crankworks DOES make a forged 10mm crank,, not just billets.