James-26

Thanks for your reply but I just ordered a nut and straight key from F.A.S.T Still looking for a Upper a-arm for the right side

I need a stock upper right side a-arm for my banshee. I might also need to lower right a-arm as well. Let me know if you have these parts. I'm also looking for a drive gear nut and key for the clutch side of my crank. Items need to be in 100% working order. Key part number 90170-16425-00 Nut part number 90282-07023*00

When I check my piston to wall clearance I flip the cylinder up-side-down and install the piston as it normally would be. I then force the piston all the way to one side of the cylinder and insert a feeler gauge between the cylinder wall and piston skirt. I'm on 64.75mm bore and my piston to wall clearance is around .001 to .002 I have read that my clearance is to tight and I have also read that I'm just right. What do you guys think should I get my cylinders honed out so I have around .003 to .004 or stay where I am?

Bump... I'm open to offers or trades.

PM sent back to the both of ya Guys I'm also in need of a upper right stock a-arm

Guys I'm in need of a inner clutch hub/boss. I know there only $40 shipped but I'm just looking for a cheap replacement. I plan on getting a billet clutch setup later down the road. Let me know what you have. Part # 1A0-16371-00-00 is what I'm talking about http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem-parts/YAMAHA/2000/BANSHEE/?modelyearid=2236&typeid=2&groupId=92253

I bought a used stock timing plate already but thanks for the offer.

Yes seperateing is the same as pulling apart leaving to much side to side play in the rod.

How do I go about doing this.

Bump

Hey guys I'm looking for a banshee timing plate. It can be stock or adjustable it does not matter. I also need a "good quality" fly wheel puller. I bought one from Vito's website that was JUNK! Need timing plate ASAP. Thanks

Yea I was thinking about bumping up to 270 or even 280 mains and seeing where I am there. Hows my head look guys? I got this sucker for $20 shipped .

I to was thinking about the single carb setup until I did a search and found page after page of info on why not to do it. Do a search there is a shit load of info.

So I'm about ready to tune my engine and I have changed my set-up alittle from before. I'm running .030 over Wiseco prolite pistons, .025 shaved and re chambered head, stock crossover tube, K&N filter with air box lid, FMF fatty full system, FMF reeds. Before I was jetted at 260 mains with stock 25 pilots and it ran perfect, but I also had cast pistons, boost bottle and stock head that im no longer running.

I'm at 64.75mm's and I just found that my crank has pulled apart .030 Only other mods on my bike is FMF fatty pipes.

okay so I got my wiseco pistons today. I checked my Piston To Wall Clearance and I'm around .001 to .002 P.T.W.C I think I'm good to go. The wiseco pistons feel tighter inside the cylinder then the Cast pistons do. When I check my piston to wall clearance I flip the cylinder up-side-down and install the piston as it normally would be. I then force the piston all the way to one side of the cylinder and insert a feeler gauge between the cylinder wall and piston skirt. I know this is how to check 4 stroke P.T.W.C but not 100% 2 stroke is the same. Some one correct me if my method is wrong.

How much for the 65mm Vito super stock piston kit only? PM me a price

Interesting I wonder why the guy at F.A.S.T didnt tell me this? He told me that there would be no reason to bore and to just drop the new pistons in a I'll be good. Guess he was more worried about getting a sale in. What should my piston to wall clearance be with the wiseco pistons?

Alrite I'll go ahead and get the wrist pin bearings ordered. My banshee we rebuilt back in Feb of this year (i was told) and I can still see the bore/hone marks in the cylinder walls, will I need to hone before installing the new pistons? The guy at F.A.S.T. told me to just check clearance and install the pistons. On one of the Cast WSM pistons the pin that holds the rings from moving around started to come out and put a minor mark maybe .003 deep in the cylinder wall. Is this going to hurt anything when I install the new Wiseco pistons?

I'll take the adjustable timing plate. Dont need the stator.

So I was fixing a blown head gasket on my shee and dictated to also replace the base gasket while I was in the engine. Good thing I did I found that the left side crank has pulled apart where the Big end of the rod meets the crank. It has pulled out an amazing .030 WTF. So I have bought a new crank that has been welded and trued, I bought new OEM outside crank bearings and seals, Wiseco Pro Lite pistons to replace my Cast WSM pistons, All new gaskets, and I'll prob also have my head shaved .025. I was going to send my cylinders off to RB Racing to have the trail port done but I'm running low on cash now. Guess I'll do that later. This will be my first time inside a banshee engine is there anything I need to watch for or do? Is there any other parts I should add, mod or replace while I'm inside the case? Will I need to rejet the carbs for the wiseco pistons? Oh I have not bought wrist pin bearings for the wiseco pistons yet. Should I replace them or can I reuse the bearings from my WSM pistons? Or is there a certain wrist pin bearing wiseco has to use?

Sounds to me that you got your throttle cables either mixed and in the wrong carbs or there not adjusted correctly.

If I wasn't broke I'd be all over this. I been wanting to try the V Force 3 REEDS for some time now.

Well turns out that my pistons are not Namura they are WSM cast pistons. I have my engine tore down and googled the number off the top. I called SWM and I was told that there cast pistons are the same as Pro x pistons.

40:1 with Klotz Super Techniplate. 16oz to every 5gal 42:1 with Klotz Super Techniplate. 15oz to every 5gal I will run either of the the ratios. Klotz Super Techniplate is the shit and smells amazing. I have read rumors about Klotz two stroke oil freezing piston rings. Any one had any bad experience with this two stroke oil?