James-26

Just bought a 95 banshee and when I get to 6th gear up top my right side cylinder just dies. I can feel the power loss but the bike does not spit, bog, or cut out. As soon as I get out of the throttle the cylinder fires back to life. I have no idea where my jetting is or where I should be. My mods are FMF fatty pipes, .030 over bore, FMF reeds, stock porting, lid removed with K&N filter. I'm running 42:1 Klotz Super Techniplate.

How are Vito's superstock pistons vs's Wiseco's pro lite pistons?

So in other words is I change to a Wiseco or even a Vito's super stock pistons I might as well bore to the next size?

Just bought a 95 Banshee and I was told it's been bored .040 0ver and has Namura Piston installed. What is your thoughts on these pistons? I have been thinking about buying a Wiseco pro lite kit to replace. I was told the engine was rebuilt in Feb and has next to no ride time on new engine. Any insight on this would be very helpful.

As topic says $45 shipped plus 3% for paypal fees

Dibs on the trinity head. PM sent Please post pictures of the head

I'll take the Stator cover, gasket, Stock head and head gasket PM sent

Sent you a PM pm on the rear Razr II tires.

FMF Glod Series exhaust sold. Stock intakes $28 shipped plus paypal fees F.A.S.T carb sync tool $50 shipped plus paypal fees

Not to be a dick but I bought this sync tool from FAST for $50 plus $12 for shipping.

Yea I'm running klotz supertechniplate now. I just ran a tank of 40:1 I mixed 12.6oz to exactly 3 gals of gas. The Klotz does smell awesome. Anyone had any issues with there rings freezing while running this stuff? I mostly trail ride and I was reading the klotz supertechniplate is not recommended for trail riding.

I have a few item I'd like to sale off my 95 Banshee. First is an FMF Gold Series exhaust that came on my bike when I bought it. The exhuast is in ok shape, Has dents and dings in the belly cans and I'm sure the canisters need to be repacked. I'll take $95 plus shipping and paypal fees fot the entire exhaust. Next I have a set of stock intakes in very good condition with no cracks or tares. $30 shipped plus paypal fees. Last I have a F.A.S.T carburetor sync tool. I just bought this maybe a week ago. Only used it one time and it works perfect. $55 shipped plus paypal fees.

I sent you a PM on the stator, adjustable timing plate, and flywheel puller last night. How much shipped to Indiana 46140.

I appreciate all the help guys.

Well the gasket that I pulled off was 1/64th of an inch and the new one I made was is 1/32nd of an inch so I just torqued to factory 86.4 in-lbs. I will have it finished up later today.

Thanks SD1026! Also I found the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts. For anyone else looking torque specs are 7.2 ft-lbs or 86.4 in-lbs

I just made a replacment gasket out of 1/32 inch gasket paper. Rather be safe the sorry. As far as running four gaskets don't think I'll do that at this time. It was fine the way it was before so no reason fixing something that isnt broke. Does it matter how the reed cage goes back in? I couldnt remember witch side was top when reinstalling. Also is there an in-lbs torque spec on the intake manifold bolts? My shop manual isnt here yet.

Do I just buy four of the gaskets that go between the intake port and reed cage then? Also do I need to replace the used gasket that is already installed? I didnt rip or tare when I took the cage off.

Thats very interesting cause only gasket that was on it was between the intake port and reed cage. You can see the gasket in my pictures. There was nothing between the reed cage and intake manifold.

I'm installing new intake manifolds on my banshee not because it needs them but I rather be safe then sorry later down the road. Anyway I figured I check out the port job and to my surprise it looks damn good to me but honestly i dont know what a good port job looks like. What do you guys think? Is it possable to verify to type of porting done here? trail,dune,race or drag? When I install the new intake manifolds do I need to use any kind of sealing agent or gasket? I see there is a gasket between the intake port and reed cage but nothing between the intake manifold and reed cage Also is this a stock reed cage or aftermarket? I was told it has boysen reeds??

Well I have my 27.5 pilots and 300 mains. I plan to ride this weekend so I really hope the 300's will be enough as thats all I have for now. I really appreciate the help so far guys. I'd still like to get an idea on where I should start with my needles as well. From what I have read 3 groove might be a good starting point?? When I do a plug chop what am I looking for? How will I know if im to lean or rich? Also a plug chop is nothing more then pulling the plug and checking the color correct?

Thanks for the info on the gas ratio Really the Pro Circuits exhaust is going to require me to jet up that much? Where should I put my needle clips and how many turns out on the A/F screws?

Hey guys I have a set of Pro Circuits pipes I'm about to install on my shee today. Right now I have a set of FMF's installed but there coming off. My question is my bike is jetted for the fmf gold series "not the fattys", after I install the Pro Circuit exhaust will I need to rejet? Im at 290 mains and 25 pilots, not sure on the needles. I have a set of 27.5 pilots should I through them in? My mods are in my sig. Oh yea my elevation is around 850 to 900 and temp is around 70-80's here in Indiana. I also have one other question. My friend also has a banshee and he is/ has been running this gas mixture at 80:1 and 100:1 is that safe? He swears by it and says its the best mixture for the shee?? I'm running 42:1 now can I bump to 50:1?

What is the stock float height and how do I check it.

Okay well that was my question there tuff guy! There is no reason to run high octane unless your compression requires it. I mean it's your money you are wasting, but running H-O when it isnt needed is not doing anything for your engine. If you wanna keep running it buy some 15-18cc domes for your coolhead. Just trying to help