James-26

Looking for a good condition stock nerfbars for my banshee. Also looking for a set of douglas black label front wheels no junk no dents.

What all have you checked and replaced?

Yea I have a manual and that is where i been getting my info. I have checked most of my connections with my volt meter set to ohms. But to be honest I do not know where to set the ohms on my meter. When I do check im getting readings but the numbers jump up then slowly work them self to zero. I got a reading when I tested the orange and black on my primary coil but when I went orange the plug wires I got nothing at all, no readings. I check with caps on and off., the same issue with my charging coil no reading what so ever.

Looking for some more ideas guys. Anyone have any info regarding post # 2? I appreciate the help so far.

Just a heads up the manual says to run yamalube at a ratio of 25:1 I thought that sounded very rich but if I was using yamalube i'd mix it how its recommended by factory.

Yes tors removed. Guess I should have added that I took a "hammer" to the tors brain box. I also cut and removed the switch from the throttle, unpluged and removed the tors from the carbs, removed the rev limit from the handle bars. Like I said in post # 2 I have no OHMS coming from the charging coil or the secondary ignition.

Read post #2 Well I bought a stator and now I'm wondering if I'm going to need a coil as well. Im not kicking on the engine anymore untill the new parts are installed. I'll try the oil Idea thanks.

$40 for a set of cylinders If they dont sale I'll take them.

So I did some OHMS testing and am a little confused. First I tested the Primary ignition coil where the Orange and Black wire hooks to. I have Resistance there but when I checked the Secondary Ignition coil Black prong to either plug wire (I tested with plug cap on and removed) I have no resistance at all either wire. Next I checked the light coil tests good. Then I moved onto the Charging coil Green and Red wire and have no resistance. Pickup coil has resistance. So with my findings does this mean my Stator and ignition coil are both needing replaced?

Hey guys I just got finished building my shee engine and I have no spark now. While the engine was apart I dropped and screwed up the stator and timing plate so I bought new used parts. Got the stator off ebay and timing plate off here. Anyway I got every thing back together and I no longer have a spark so I'm almost 100% its the stator I bought cause I had spark before the build. I have checked all my grounds, went over all my wiring, and gaped my pick up at .017 inch. It's gotta be that stator I bought. Anyway here is my question. Is it safe/ok to kick on a fresh engine over and over that hasn't even fired for the first time? I used assembly lube while building but I'm still concerned. Also after I do have/get a spark how easy should it be to see? I mean will it be as clear as day or will I need to really look for it when testing for spark?

Does your brother still have the old stator that her replaced?? My bike has no spark and Im almost 100% sure its my stator.

I think I'll take it PM sent

I'm very interested in just the Baja wheels. I can paypal the money asap PM me a price on just the wheels.

I have a set of WSM 64.75mm pistons, rings, wrist pins, pin bearings and c-clips i'll sale ya for $55 shipped plus 3%. They have around 5-10 hours on them. Very nice condition. If your interested PM me.

513M06550 is a Wiseco part number. Your piston is .060 over bore. So in other words yes your piston size is 65.50mm

So you guys are telling me it's ok to break in a 2 stroke engine with synthetic oil?

I read that synthetic oil is bad for break in. and you should only use Petroleum base oil. What 2stroke oil have/are you guys using to break in your engine and what ratio? NO SYNTHETIC OIL !! while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Bump $65 shipped plus 4% takes it.

SOLD......Thanks

PM sent

I need this kit to sale asap so please feel free to PM me a "respectable" offer.

I have a brand new Wiseco Prolite (64.75mm)(.030 over) top end kit with all brandnew gaskets, wrist pins, and bearings up for sale. I got a call today from my machinist telling me that I have to much piston to wall clearance to run these pistons and will need 65mm. This is the only reason I'm selling. gasket kit and pin bearings have not been opened, pistons have not been installed and are still in there original box. $195 shipped plus 3% for paypal fees. I will trade for newer cool head with o-rings and 20-21cc domes. I'll have pictures tomorrow.

I use to run golden spectro, It's old school but very good two stroke oil. I'm now running Klotz Super Techniplate at 40:1 I love this oil and it smells awesome!

I dont care if some one else was to take my idea. I think this skull looks killer. I do believe this is what I want..

Hey guys I was wondering where I could find this cool ass billet grill. I have looked all over the net and cant find anything like it.