VictorK

I have rear 20 inch bandits and even though the tread is still great they suck going up these leaf covered Connecticut hill climbs. Question is, do these tires bite better turned backwards?

The plug had a small leak due to the shape of the port(kinda oval), so I used yamabond and it held all 6psi for over 6 mins. I took the carbs apart and they were clean and seemed fine so I put them back on. When I started it again it was better other then the idle screw was in too much. I dialed in the idle screws and air screws and along with all the new tranny bearings(the clutch shaft one was really spanked), its running better then ever! I just came back from riding for 4hrs with not a single issue.

I used yamabond. I kinda did cheat with the leak test as it holds pressure for 6 Mins but not all 6psi. The rubber plugs wanna have a small leak due to the shape after the port work. I feel like it holds pressure really well. My buddy said this happened with one of his 250RS and it turned out to be a Stuck float

I hate when people do that, just a ugly waste of a quad

The tube was connected and when I was syncing the carbs the slides seemed ok.I thought it was a leak at first. I'm thinking a float was stuck but I'm looking for suggestions. Thanks

right carb was pouring gas so I tapped it with the screw driver handle. Carbs or what else can it be? Bump

Haha I took the rod out and turned it around. The actuator doesn't come up anymore but there's another issue still. It starts hard and when it does it likes to rev high. It revved out of control so I hit the kill switch, turned the key and pulled the plug caps off, fucker was still screaming. Just did a leak test, she held 6psi for 6 mins. Could the floats be stuck? Help me out here!

I just redid my tranny with new bearings. I also changed the actuator. Once it was all set I started it and it doesn't wanna run unless I have it gassed. I went to pull the clutch in and realized the actuator worked its way up and bent the piece that holds it down up. I got it back in and started it again. The actuator would move up and down and eventual go back up! Who has seen this crap?

I just bought some stuff from adrenalinejunkie, great Condition and fast delivery thanks

Go over the entire wiring harness and make sure nothings broke, there's no bad connections, and every connection is still connected. Like they said, tors are the cause of that often. They can be disconnected. If all else checks out it could be the flywheel, stator, or coil. I had a wire inside the killswitch/light assembly come loose and make my shee not fire once also.

I've been running different cases for 6 months with no issue involving cases

Ill probably end up doing something like that. I'm just wondering what can be had for a fraction of the price

I actually knew that but never thought of it. what comes with 28 pwks?

Sold

PM replied to...

When you have a 250R you can grab a tmx or pwk carb from a cr250 but what bikes come with carbs that would be a good upgrade for a banshee? I know they have to be set up different but what other bikes come with what?

Every single part stock or aftermarket is available for 250R's new and used. If one place doesn't have it another will. You shouldn't have a bit of trouble locating atleast good used atc parts either. The yfz banshee would be sick to ride though.

like it says stock head with new gasket. the head is in great condition and anyone who wants to put a stock head on their shee wouldnt be disapointed. 30 shipped for both. ill take pics at request pm or text/call 203-993-0206 vic

ok, the shifting forks look straight. the front one is marked 1.. , and the two rear ones are marked 1. , and 2. the bearing the clutch spins on wiggles and the shift drum bearing has some side to side play. other then that it all seems ok.

tonight is the first time I'm trying this method, I heard of it on good ol hq

Ill have the tranny out tonight so well see what's wrong. I'm gonna open it upside down like someone said so I don't have to touch the top end

my bikes been hitting neutral under heavy load more then it should(mostly between 3rd-4th). Now I realized it vibrates at idle through lower midrange and it turned out to be the bearing the clutch rides on. It sucks but when stuff isn't right it has to be fixed

I have a stock head with no damage ill ship for 20 bucks. no pic right now because its not infront of me but I can send one if you like

Is this guy calling the polish job chrome? http://albany.craigslist.org/rvs/2010329214.html

I've heard of this too but I neither of us can do it so we would have to get it done. I think the heli coil would hold up fine anyway