Phelps

if you ordered a 4mil 58mm crank for a 54mm cub you screwed up. there is a 392 cub which is a 68mm bore and stock stroke and a 396 that uses a +4 stroke with a standard 110 rod, or a 115 rod. might want to see what your cylinders was setup for before you just buy parts.

stock polished clutch cover 65 shipped hubs 30 shipped tail light 40 shipped

+1!

it's a stator plate and flywheel. i have both. flywheel has some marks on it, but come from a perfect running bike. lemme know if you are interested. i would probably go 50 shipped for both.

sorry it sold right after i listed it.

pipes, lockup cover, cylinder are all sold! hubs 30 shipped tail light 45 shipped i also have a chrome brake pedal never ran since chromed and a polished stock clutch cover if anyone is interested.

i have a nice stock basket with gear, no play an very little marking from the fibers. 55 shipped send me a pm if interested.

i wouldnt buy from someone with that kind of feeback... if i did i wouldn't pay until after the crank passed inspection.

hey i told a guy about those carbs. maybe you can sell them now that you don't need them.

nice set of PT mids (will need packing) 275 shipped in the us.***SOLD*** what i call a budget lockup cover 75 shipped. will need a O ring, but i may can locate one.***SOLD*** stock painted (blue) hubs with new bearings and seals 30 shipped billet tail light 45 shipped stock port cylinders currently 64.54 bore will need probably .020 to clean up. i have a set of 65mm weisco pistons that are in decent shape 150 shipped for all***SOLD*** chrome brake pedal 35 shipped (fresh chrome) ***SOLD*** polished stock clutch cover 65 shipped

i have a set that measure 64.516 but need to be bored to at least 65.00 i also have a set of decent 65mm pistons. send me a pm if interested.

money sent on basket and clutch kit.

the 2 little ones go on the outside of the 2 rear forks and the longer one goes between the 2 rear forks.

have struck a deal with scott. thanks!

no need in ever running 7's, 8's cover almost anything and 9's for alky and nitrous aps.

split in the case and numbers on the plate. no cams, no way to get the timing off unless you forget to put the keyway in lol

if you plan on staying with that setup you may never need to have the crank welded. welding the crank is to keep the crank web from moving on the pin and it getting out of true. it's 50 bucks plus shipping and seals and gaskets. my opinion is to wait until you decide to have the cylinders ported, or you tear it down for a rebuild.

i have a set of 34mm pj carbs setup for alky. i need a stator, flywheel, stock head, or will entertain almost all trades. will also take 150 shipped for the carbs and cables if you just want to buy them outright!

wish i had something it would match... bump!

if you run a stock plastic stator cover you will have to cut the plastic case saver out. no biggie. however i wouldn't suggest running that big of a drive gear without a bearing support. did it for a little while, but decided safe is better than sorry.

you can't get a 38 on a 6 bolt hub and there are bigger sprockets for the front "off the shelf" than a 15 i ran 17/39 20" tire and went 107mph but the calculator said it should have been more for my rpm's. regardless you're going to need 80+hp and a 17/38 sprocket setup, at least a 10,000 rpm motor. that is if you wanna reach 110 in, or under the 1/4 mile mark.

it's in every state and town.....

just needed one shock. zachass9 has one on the way to me!. thanks for all the offers guys!

send it to andy at M&MATV a sponsor here and let him tear it apart and make it right. for another 150 bucks you could have gotten one from him only (properly) welded with a tz bearing.... don't run that crank (asis) unless you want to destroy everything when it comes apart.