Jereme6655

Haha I ain't talking on the outside of the motor Jared......I was never the impression that he was seeing the sligh puddling of oil on the inside of the motor on the bottom of the cylinder intakes where the slight lip is where the reeds fit. But I am in total agreence with you on the point your making.....there should be no fuel or oil seen on the outside of the reeds.

The requirement of race fuel is not what causes a hole to be melted through pistons. Deto will look like a bunch of smash marks on the tops of the piston face. Melted piston will have obvious signs of a trench being formed right through the middle of the piston. Deto is caused by lack of octane in fuel. Basically when you squeeze something so hard it will generate heat and after a certain amount of compression the heat is actually hot enough to cause combustion. So the fuel mixture will fire off while the piston is still on the way up.....thus leaving the small dings in the face of the piston. A melted piston is caused by a lean fuel mixture. When 2stroke motors are run lean they lack lubrication.....causing the cylinders to destroyed by the piston moving without enough lubrication. Running them lean can either by poor jetting or lack of oil in the mix or the hidden danger....an air leak. When the crankcase loses its air tight seal it begins sucking air in and causes the motor to run lean. Basically if you don't have a good air tight motor your going to melt piston after piston. Usualy higher octane fuel such as race gas is more commonly needed around 150-160 psi. So do a compression test. This is the easier/more inaccurate way of testing octane requirements. The other way involves measuring the internals of your motor. We also use homemade tools called leakdown testers to check for leaks. There is a sticky posted on here showing how to build them....

He's not talking fuel seepage......he's talking oil residue. Which around the reed valves can accumulate if you are running either rich or using heavy amounts of 2stroke oil in your fuel...

There isn't a TORS kit that uses springs instead of locknuts........why do you think springs would be better?

have you checked your jetting? too lean of jetting (say if you put aftermarket pipes on and dont change your jets....BOTH pilot and mains) will cause the same issues. what mods do you have and what is your current jetting.......and also you can go through and start checking electronics....electrical issues can build on each other like that and cause all sorts of odd things....

since you said your looking for a description of the power on each of these types of motors........i suggest you look in the dyno room section of our website. There you'll be able to see the peak power and torque and if you know how to read them you'll be able to see just how quick the powerband comes on and where about in the rpm range that it hits at. But dont forget to make sure you look at what other bolt on mods that may be accenting the motor.....ie pipes, reeds, intakes, filter setups.......pipes especially will make your motor jump up faster on the low end or top out higher than others.... Most banshees came from the factory making about 30-35hp stock.

Followed by going into his house and throwing him out the back window to get thru the garage to get your bike back.

The metal case savers have been known to not flex enough when the chain hits them and have it'll caused the cases to break. The plastic case savers will flex a lot and absorb the chains energy saving your cases.

My money is on Jared's idea of the vent cap not being gutted. It does sound like a starvation issue since it only happens after wot.

Hha.....damn that's what inwasntrying to say BigRed......just lookedmbacknat it and see the problem. Correct it doesn't decrease power.....just makes clamping force stronger through rotating mass....

No.....it helps you keep from making too much power for your clutch to hold againI the pressure plate. So it fights the urge for your clutch to slip when your motor is making high hp #s

No rejet should e necessary.......however it doesnt hurt to just throw a set of plugs in and give it a plug chop occasionally.......keeps you feeling good about it and reassures you nothing went wrong.

Nope.....just make sure the kit that your buying comes with the idle screws AND the tap for them.....along with me carb caps and a new throttle cable. There is no real way to measure the slide gap for the carbs......just have to go to it and get the tool or get good at listening and tuning by hand...

Why not just spool off some toilet paper and just wipe your ass with something that is meant to be dragged between the cheeks.......coffee filter belongs in coffee maker....not near my ass haha.

$1675 for my 01 with FMF fatties and new rims and tires all around

Banshee motors are snappy 2 strokes....so when your on the pipe its gonna hit harder than a 4stroke. Are you sure you synced the carbs or did you manage to turn the idle down.....

To end is 14 nuts and 4 circlips to get the pistons off....then it's bore/hone, new gaskets and new pistons.....then reassemble to torque specs

Shouldn't as effect it that much if at all. We're you holding the throttle wide open and did you kick it til the needle stopped moving? I ask that cause that is some seriously low compression. Like you wouldn't be able to kick start that thing. I wonder if your compression tester went bad.......shoulda checked the other side too....

Pretty sure that's the way that guns was talking about.......

Detroit as in the city or out in the suburbs.......there are a few of us running around in the area

If it starts to rev itself up or idle really high it is because you are either running extremely lean. Either you have an air leak or you have some seriously off jetting. Either way STOP running your bike before you blow it up.

Dont worry BigRed.....I think with this guy we don't have to worry about taking him down......he's got the chance to do it himself.

As in your trans fluid? Not easily. I guess you could blow an o-ring and then blow a crank seal and get it in that way. More realistic is that your water pump seal cut loose and it leaked into your clutch. The easy way to check for all of this is to do a leakdown test on your motor......it is a phenomenally great tool to help diagnose problems and also ways to eliminate issues.

With that "po-design coo hid".... Wow. Interesting.....doesn't sound like its running so great either. Almost sounds like its got a random miss and a little throttle hang when he walks away from it

Usually if the key either shears or just disappears......the flywheel will fall off and the flywheel wiill play pinball on your pickup lead and your flywheel cover. Look at your flywheel again.....and look on the inside of it. I know when I remove my flywheel there have been a few times that the key has been sucked out by the magnet which is rather strong inside the flywheel and appears to be missing until you look inside the flywheel.... Jereme