banshee67

i was talking about an all stock j-arm. like you had said CAM, you had a somewhat aftermarket setup. and if he is wanting to keep the stock setup he just needs to be cautious with the jumping. and try to stay away from the jumps where you bottom out your shocks. and a-arms are stronger, you cant deny that. i mean there was a reason that yamaha gave it an update fairly early. so there is nothing wrong with the j-arm but be careful and it will last as long as any other arm

sounds like it has seized up and pretty bad.

they dont bend EASILY but the a-arms are much stronger. would advise aftermarket shocks if you are planning on competing in mx or just cant stand being on the grand. that way if you have a hard landing you shouldn't bend the arm. but stockers should be fine if your not doing an mx beast.

toomey tr6 pipe kit. they are what i think are the best for a stock bike. they are an awesome all around pipe hit hard in the mid and again in the top. great for everything

no. it wont do anything but change the sound. maybe add a little bit different back pressure but i doubt it. you would be better off with a set of aftermarket pipes. the whole stock pipe setup is completely restrictive

doubt it

i know this is an old thread but i run a stock 01 banshee with the t6 pipes and they pull.... hard. if you raced a guy on level ground, it would be close. i mean the t6s compete with even ported bikes. they produce enough torque on level ground to beat some decent bikes. now from experience, if you raced this guy up a hill and he was not bullshitting you, you wouldve smoked him no doubt. but i have raced against our other bikes and on level ground i can give them a good run for their money, but then up a hill against the same bike, i can get a good start but by the time i am half way up the hill, they just fly by me

just do it. i was wanting to do something like that to try to lower it for flat track. that would be for stockers thought. idk about extended works though

if it is a true banshee. after time they all squeak. its kinda like the rattling of the kick starter haha. it just a shee thing

make sure you keep them tight and check the bolts often. it wont matter how strong your rim is, they will start to egg out and will never be usable again. i just found this out on my own recently

a arms are stronger and are wont bend as easily if you do allot of jumping

keep the throttle dry haha

fix the boot. go down on your pilot and if your bike runs good there is no need to go buy a set of dual carbs. just take care of the bike and it will take care of you. clean the filter and check the cylider. if its getting some scratches you can hone it out real quick. CLEAN THE AIR FILTER. clogged filters will reduce air flow and screw with your jetting plus clog your carbs and jets

when it comes to weight. i agree. you might get five to ten lbs at most with cutting off mounts like your talking. its gonna be a waste of time i think.

if its not elect. then its fuel. are the carbs synced. are they jetted after that. are they even flowing fuel?

2:1 suck ass. we had one and i mean it ran decent but it just never ran quite right. i was the trinity intake but i think that the graydon might be a better design maybe

what reed on a stock cage would work best with the t6s? and would they offer a noticable gain performance wise on a otherwise stock bike

xs 2

i would try to get your hands on a set of bills pipes. sick bottom end

it would be better to just run a full toomey t5 setup

i still think it would be better to just get bigger carbs

its just that i know you kan drill out our stock plat to adjust it. but i was wondering how you you could use the key instead

thats why you need to use a foam filter in the first place. besides, the airbox still lets sand through. the only real reason you would wand to keep the airbox would be to keep water out. like if your crossing rivers often. and a pre filter will also help keep shit out and acts as a second filter

i have been looking through some magazines and there is always a section with VITOS perfomane in there, they always have the same stuff offered but i have been looking at one of their products, the degree key. it mounts to your stator i think to advance or retard lake the timing plate. it is cheaper but i was wondering if anybody has used them and could give me a little feed back

a decent st of boysen redds, or even a set of fmfs. thats what i like