banshee67

i am sure they are a decent pipe but it looks horrible in my opinion. that and the design looks extremely restrictive

give flat track a try? the banshee ( if setup decent ) will kick ass. if you do mx then this could help round you out as a rider in general? just a simple lowering kit and widen the rear with a decent pipe some modded heads, and gearing. you can smoke anybody i am trying to get into it myself but need to wait till next season.

i will admit i like the toomeys and i have them but i still love the sound of those dinosaur fmfs. especially the fatties. but the too bikes were only piped. the abla packaga came with pipes, jetting and graphics. that was it. they were fairly even bikes

they look horrible you would be better of with some fmfs or dg?

from the old tech to new has anyone installed a fuel injection? or ever seen one on a banshee? almost all of the newer quads and bikes have them now and was thinking ( not a good idea) if there would be a way of installing them since the banshee never came with it? and was also wondering why yamaha only did it to the 450 in 04 while the banshee was still in production?

my stepmother has had the same .80 over bored pro x piston ( new rings for every now and then too be safe) for several years. just a few months ago we took her bike apart to check cylinder walls and pistons and everything checked out we honed out the cylinder and put it back. they boring specs really are.... different. from the other brands. kinda a pain in the ass. but decent piston when taken care of

toomey needles will actually make a difference you can feel. good needle

your 150 ish mains seem extremely lox for your almost sea level elevation? i am running stock air box and filter with t 6 and their jetting and my mains are a 280. plus i am at around 4000 ft. my cousin went and bought the rad valve thinking that it would make his bike scream but my old man smoked his fmf fatties and rad valve alba racing banshee with his toomey t5 banshee. and it seemed that the rad valve made his bike loose some power. they work well for snowmobiles but just dont seem to work as well as the stock cages. boysen makes decent reed i am not bashing what so ever.

just find an oem stock plate. and no a banshee would suck in a disaster situation. if streets are flooded your bike soon would be as well. and it would no stand up to the situation of helping pull cats out of trees. get a damn 4x4 with a winch if you want a disaster bike.

ok thanks i checked it a few months ago amd i am the third owner and have only ridden it about four times since i got it. i was just wanting to make sure it wasnt low thanks

hey i was just wondering what the stock compression would be at around 3500 or 4000 ft ish

do you know where i could get a 2 mill crank for a decent price? all i have found are 4 mill and above

haha nice. so do you know of any decent widening kits. my dad in early 2000s used to race and he broke his stock axle right before he started racing so bought a durablue plus 2 or 3 and lowered his bike with a tie down strap. so i dont have the money for a new axle unless needed and i dont necessarily use tie down straps to lower my bike.haha. he did use some old motorcycle shock in the end though?

is there any way to use my stock plate? or does the aftermarket give more?

wouldnt the crank add somemore bottom end?

so if i get a timing plate, which way would i have to either advance or retard to get low end power? i have hardly any with the pipes i have. t6

so if i bored up too about a 400cc, would i get better power with that or say a 2 or three mil crank

hell ya pistons like that and you will be smoking any 450. the potential in a bike like that would be sick haha

is the timing plate a noticeable gain?

thanks.for your help but i was also wondering how much of a power gain i could get with a cool head with some 20 cc domes

there should be an air screw on each carb. that should fix your problem. turn them all the way in and the bike will die. turn them all the way out it will flood. so to start turn them BOTH all the way in and then turn them 1 1/4 way out to start. then make your adjustments from there. not too bad or hard to fix congrats on the shee good luck

probably but if i were you i would do just the cylinder and skip the sleeve. the sleeve acts as a gaurd against the cylinder. honda came up with this idea to get rid of the sleeve completely so i would use it for that purpose. if you blow up then the sleeve itself could become damaged and then you would still have the same problem. so in short. i would do just the cylinder and get rid of the sleeves

well i mean i know that there are adjustments on the stock suspension and was thinking of doing that? i am just not sure how i would go about doing that? also how low can the stock fronts drop?

well a couple things. what is the difference between straight cut and stock? and also is there any power or performance vs price gain?

make sure the bike is pretty stock. not completely it could save you money on pipes or sell the pipes and by new ones. i am just saying that you dont want a heavy modded bike. you dont want to have too deal with other peoples mistakes. if you make a mistake you have an idea of what it is. with someone elses you have no clue what it is.