n2otoofast4u

But it was 3 bucks cheaper from the other guy... DUH....

serval, alky, drag........ This motor seems confused of its sexuality.

the CK-158 rod is a 115mm long rod....just as redline said

The crank will most likely work. The cases will have to modded not only for the bore but the different rear stud location and cyld size. IMO the 39s will work fine, after that there isnt much that you have that will transfer. Your looking at cyld, head, domes, hardware, intake, reeds, pipes, and Id assume that you will need some additional stuff on the clutch side depending on how quality of a build your 465 is.

put the fuckers in a box, and for 15 bucks they will end up at a person who can tell you more about them then your questions will ever answer

I folded them fuckers way worse then that on the turbo bike when it would shove the reeds out the carb and was able to get them usable. Not perfect but usable. Take it out and get it back close to flat. Roll the tip around on the edge of a flat surface while gently tapping with a smooth face hammer or something similar.

Detroit MI at its best.

Could be many things. However, being that its a serval Im going to assume that its not WAY high on compression and timing which are what promote the "kick backs" that cause the havoc on the clutch cover. With that being said, are you 100% certain you turned the gas off when you put it away the last time before it sat for a few weeks? And are you confident there was no water leaks (even slight drips) that were draining into the cylds?

Sure it does.... For one simply and outstanding reason.... I WANTED TO KNOW!

WHY?

At what point was it decided that the motor was cracked and half full of epoxy. I had also considered buying this and was watching his fs add for him to go stupid low and I was gonna swipe it. Last I looked at it there was a comment of something to the affect that the PVs were full of epoxy and there was a crack into a water jacket. Its then that I decided I had no interest in it. I cant find that thread now.

compression check is the first place to start. It will tell a large part of the story

Can I get some translation and some explanation here? This sounds like a 3 way trade for shit that was never owned by any parties involved...

Gonna have to take it all back apart to get it outside

Did RJD get a new name?

Build a clue!

Largely? Probably not. An added issue? For sure. First off, these early technology 4 strokes, like the apex, vector, nytro, RX1, are all terribly heavy and that will be the first reason its a pita in the tight stuff, secondly is that they have HORRIBLE chassis geometry and are much more fit to be submarines than sleds, third will be your lack of experience, and somewhere down the list will be the gyro. HOWEVER, what your feeling with the ease of riding when on the throttle is the reason we own these heaps... HP!!!!! The hp will overtake and get the weight transfered, the skis off the ground, and will let you lean and glide your way through the trees and carve up the hill with simple and easy body movements because there is nothing more in the snow than the track.

My turbo bike would spike around 18 at the hit of the nitrous and sustain the 12 pound range down track and I had zero issue with seals. Jordys is spiking a bit higher and sustaining a bit more down track and hes had some crank seal issues. There are remedies for the seal issue that Jordy will be implementing for next year that will solve the seal problems. Just like when you were a kid with a bicycle wheel in your hand and you spun it, it would "gyro" (I think this is the proper term) as you moved it back and fourth it was harder to turn and the wheel the faster you spun it. The same principal applied to the blower, and as you know because you own one they are over driven to crazy RPM inside the case so the blower acts just like your bike wheel did when it was in your hand. In say a sled the affect is somewhat less noticed because of the size/weight of the sled (but it sill affects it) but say on a banshee with a blower that turning a trillion RPMs strapped to a machine that weighs 300 pounds the noticed affect is going to be much more.

I run 530 on the triple and it made it all year on one chain. (wasnt a ton of passes but never broke one) but I noticed when it was on the dyno that it was starting to wreck the rollers so it will need another before I run it again. The 4 cyld cougar would destroy a 530 in 2 passes, it was pretty insane. Ive seen some small twins run 3.40s on a 520 but it was one of the REALLY high end ones thats near 200 bucks and it would destroy them in 4 passes. IMO after about the 130hp mark or so I think a jump to the 530 is a good move for the average guy simply because of the disaster that can happen if you were to break a chain.

Ive seen these plastics in person not long ago and they were in damn good shape.

520 or 530? And how big of motors?

We've got a real sharp one on our hands here.

PICTURES

There are SOME people out there who think that a blower on a bike is the cats ass... Now lets all remember that I know nothing. The first (of many) major issues is that there is no "pulse" with a blower it is constantly pushing air, thusly you get none of the pulse action that the 2 stroke exhaust creates.. With that being said, there is a company that is super charging LATE MODEL 2 stroke snowmobiles that are both fuel injected, and have power valves. The kit is limited to 5psi, and as I understand it they are manipulating the timing of the PVs to help keep some pressure in the cylds rather than it simply just blowing right through. The idea that the blowers use too much HP to turn is pretty far out there these days with the technology of the pro-charger and the roterx blowers. Although they do infact take SOME power its rather minimal. Theres a whole host of other issues that come into play with the blower stuff, from the weight, to the belt systems, the gyro affect, and many others. Coming from a guy that has owned, ran, tuned, delt with 2 stroke boosted stuff I would RUN the other way from this crap. If you want boost, use a turbo. JMO and I know nothing.

There are some REALLY high end, high dollar 520 chains out there that will hold pretty good power. But if the bike is heavy and you are running big tires you will wear them out pretty quick. The GOOD 530s are stronger but the chains are near 200 bucks and the sprockets are also more. At some point you will want to be realistic with your hp numbers and decide what is best for you. Another note is to be sure you run GOOD sprockets. Using junk sprockets that wear out will eat the chain faster.