So Cal Suspension

Jon, that's what I was going to do too. We use NCIC and NICB. Tyler, all I want is the case number, but with the vin, it will show the date and time the original report was filed, along with the date and time of recovery.

He hasn't been on since the 22nd of October... I think we all just got trolled.

Actually, I'm sure you have paperwork from when this item was seized, you have the VIN in the seizure order from the DNR. Post up the VIN, and I'll run it myself and see if the story matches up. Or, give me the case number from the DNR, and I can use that as well. That would end this once and for all... Just post the VIN, or the case number from the DNR, and I will verify this.

If you don't find one, and want to upgrade in the next few months, I will be releasing an LED version of a similarly shaped light. They will be more than twice as bright using less than half of the power,, and 100% billet aluminum. They will be offered in either Mirror Polished, or black, Spot, Euro, or Flood pattern. I'm super excited about releasing these lights, and have been working tirelessly on these things for the past few months to make sure everything is 100%. I hope to have the first set rolling off the line in the next couple weeks to do some testing. John, from JL Engineering will be getting the first set, as I want first hand, unbiased feedback on them before I release them for retail sale. These are a completely new design in the LED industry, and the optics I will be using are a secret as of now, as that is what will set my lights apart from anything else on the market. For example, I was able to use my optic setup, and was able to throw a 4 degree beam of light nearly 150 yards using only the tiny little LED "Flash" on my iPhone. These are a brand new lens/collimator design that has never been used before, and I will be the first.

PayPal IS a bank in Europe. Also, they are regulated by the Electronic Fund Transfer Act of 1978. It states that if your money is lost and it is out of your control, the institution (Vendor in this case), is 100% liable, by law, for all losses. It's the same laws all credit unions, banks, lenders, etc have to abide by. So yes, in the event that someone accessed your information that was out of your control, not only would PayPal be liable, but your bank would be liable as well. You're fine. Just verify already and stop being a little girl.

I've got money on the fact that this dude made up the entire story and still has the frame, and his money back. I have a little bit of knowledge in this area... If an item is stolen, and in your possession, you are still in violation of the law. No if's and's or but's. I find it hard to believe that you called, whoever you called, and they came out and ran the vin for you, found out it was stolen, and left with it on their happy little way without doing anything to you. Especially if you had NO paperwork, other than saying, "Oh, I bought it from this dude in Michigan." I've heard that bullshit story countless times. "These aren't my pants." "This isn't my car." "I didn't know that was in there." "Some guy gave this to me, and said I could have it." (While rolling in a stolen car) "I just bought this from a guy on the other side of town." Standard response to all of that would be "Ok, if that's true, who did you get it from, and how can we get a hold of said person." If JD hasn't gotten a call from anyone in Law Enforcement, this entire story is completely made up. If the frame was indeed stolen out of Michigan, JD would have had Michigan State Police knocking on his door. Also, who the hell doesn't pick up their phone, and spend the 4 minutes it takes to call the state police or local sheriff's dept to run a vin for them prior to purchasing something, if there is ANY question? There should ALWAYS be a doubt in your mind if you're buying something without a title, that is supposed to have a title. You got your money back, and a free frame, congratulations. Buyer's fault 100% on this one. He never should have left with the frame since JD told him up front he had no information on it, and knew nothing about the frames history. He willingly took the chance, and got burned, by his own devices.

Coors light cans are narrower than a regular soda can. If a bottle fits, a coors light can will fit.

I got it. I'll give you a call in a little bit when I'm on the way to the post office. I've got a busy day today.

Your ground clearance with Elka should be the same as stock height. Post some pictures of your bike. It sounds like you might have the wrong length shocks on there.

Yeah, just run stock length shocks, then. You don't gain anything by running longer shocks. The bike will sit higher, but the shocks will also bottom out earlier, limiting your up travel.

Unless the arms were designed for a different shock length (Long Travel), they will use stock shock length. 14.5" eye to eye.

Yep, those a tually serve the proper purpose, and work well. Just not the Velcro/elastic fabric ones.

Shock covers generally cause more damage then good. They trap moisture, dirt, and other debris inside the shocks. I do not recommend anyone run them, and also do not warranty any of my work, should the customer decide to run shock covers. They were an idea based off of a design for offroad/racing shocks, to keep rocks from pitting the shaft. They were a semi-rigid cloth sleeve, that was open at the top and the bottom, and JUST covered the portion of the spring where the shaft was exposed. Somehow the ATV market completely missed the mark with this idea and decided that enclosing the shock completely was a good idea... I'm not knocking anyone for running shock covers, but just realize that you may be doing more harm than good by running them.

Those would be a perfect candidate for JL Engineering's re-chroming.

ps3 or xbox?

I'm assuming this is Mike. PM me your number and I'll call you. The message broke up right in the middle of the phone number.

carbon fiber

It's growing on me. The killstreak setup is cool. To me, the maps have too much shit going on. Too many places to camp, and the matchmaking fucking SUCKS.... get a party of 3 or more, and you'll sit waiting for a solid 20 minutes to join a lobby.

pfffffft, there goes YOUR discount... I don't think it's that sponsors products are the absolute BEST out on the market, but we are held to a higher standard than joe-blow down on the corner. We invest in this site, therefore we have a vested interest in making customers happy, and providing quality product. For example, notice the sponsors lately that have gotten the boot from not living up to the standards.

Doh! Jumped the gun again. Those are not HID's, also. What you have there is old school over-head-projector bulbs or low voltage landscape lighting in fancy housings, is all. You could have spent $10 on Tusk super white bulbs for your stock lights and got the same light output as those.

You can buy the regular one, and upgrade to elite once you start the game. No waiting. I guess you don't get the book, but big f'in deal...

I'm glad you posted this, it reminded me of something. I had a 1992 Kawasaki 550sx ski with (I think, maybe different brand) that kit. It worked fantastic. Typically the ski was used at low elevations, but when we'd go up to Big Bear Lake (7,000 ft), it ran WAY too lean. After I had the fuel injection, I never had to worry. It was a standalone system, I believe. I wonder if a system similar to the Holley ProJection would be more feasible on the banshee application?

When you get the linkage, I would return it, unless an extra 3/4" of travel is worth $600 to you. Do a search. I did a VERY involved write up on the linkage about a year ago with measurements and comparisons. On a dune bike, I'd return the Fox Floats, too. While they are good shocks, expect to be servicing them CONSTANTLY. I've seen people have to service their floats after every trip to the dunes. They are a good idea, but air springs are a terrible design, and there is a reason they are NEVER used on race vehicles. Think about this: You get an air leak (happens all the time) in the air spring, you're shit out of luck in the middle of the dunes. You're not riding that bike back... your frame will be sitting on the ground. On the flip side, you blow out a regular coilover shock, you've still got springs to support the weight of the bike. I've been building and tuning all different kinds of race vehicles for quite some time and have never ONCE seen an air shock in a competitive race application, with the exception of rock crawlers. There's a reason for that. On that note, you cannot buy a better shock than an Axis. Elka is close, but the customer service, and lack of parts availability makes me steer away from them. Can't go wrong with the Stellar swinger, and the fireball arms. Hopefully you bought the right length shock for those a-arms, as they do not use stock length, and honestly use a weird length shock, from what I remember.

Have you talked to John at JL Engineering? His NEW prices are damn near that of used arms, and has a badass brand new square tube arched ladder swingarm, and some of the best chrome available. It's worth a phone call. www.jlengineering.org