So Cal Suspension

Are you talking about Hungry Valley? If so, no I've never been UP there. Temecula is just north of San Diego. If it's dirt, I don't ride on it. =) Generally dunes only. It hurts too bad to eat shit on anything else! If it's a fun time I might consider throwing the knobbies back on and give it a shot!

Dude, SHUT THE FUCK UP. I swear to God. You fuckers in PA need a goddamn nuke dropped on your asses. Quit your fucking bitching and shut the fuck up. I'm sick and tired of coming on here and seeing you do nothing but talk shit to people. I think most of us will be petitioning Loco when he gets back from vacation for a ban on your ass, as well as a few others. Half of you assholes come on here to boost your own internet "ego". Use these forums for what they're meant for; getting and giving advice, networking, and making friends. If your "real" life sucks that much that you need to come to an internet forum and talk shit to the very people that make this place what it is, then consider suicide, seriously. You talk shit on a forum because you know you can do it and you're protected. If you got halfway lippy with me like that in person you'd never be able to walk again. Guaranteed. In conclusion, SHUT THE FUCK UP. Edit: Just noticed you're a "dyna beads dealer". You balance tires for a living bro. You really have no importance.

I don't have any of the parts you're looking for, but I'm assuming you mean a lightened FLYWHEEL, not stator. Good luck on your search!

Those pieces on top of the carbs are called T.O.R.S. Probably 90% of us run what's called a "TORS eliminator kit". Do a search on Ebay for the kit or check with one of our site sponsors. Someone else will probably chime in, but it's not as simple as "swapping" the carb tops and cable. It requires drilling and tapping a an idle screw into each carb, as well as disconnecting quite a few electrical components. Hopefully someone has the link with the step by step instructions. Kit's usually run from 40-50 bucks. If you're not having any problems right now, there's really no benefit from eliminating the TORS other than it cleans up the top of the motor, and makes it much easier to change jets.

It's the truth though... Anywho, I pressurized my tires to 20psi last night to make sure they would hold air. Last night at 57F they were at 20.6, this evening at 54F they were at 20.4. I think they're holding. Can't wait to get the bike out in the sand and see how it does.

I guess better to be too small than too big... Wait a second...

Alright, the flip is done. Instead of flipping the stem, I used an o-ringed nut/bolt. Tack welded the nut to the bolt so it cant back off. I pressurized the tire to 25lbs, and no leaks. Not sure how it rides yet, but I'll give it a shot. I'm going to get a pic of my buddy's ITP wheels. With the shee wheels flipped, it is almost identical to the ITP's offset.

According to Summit's eBay ad: "Notes Designed for large 5/8" valve stem holes, will not fit standard 7/16" diameter holes." edit: This is the same part number G1958: eLame

Well played sir. Well played.

Alf, since you didn't name any names, I won't either. But he knows who he is, and so does most everyone else. The most unfortunate part of this whole deal, I feel, is that not only did you get a virtual "slap in the face", but this seller went on another board trash talking you. I'm self employed, I know how important a reputation is when your business is your livelihood. You've done MORE than enough for everyone around here. From what I've seen, you go out of your way to make things happen for people whether you have known them for years, or just met them in the Shoutbox. It's not very often that sellers receive "praise" when a deal goes the way it SHOULD be, but Alf always has people praising his work, and the favors he does for people. How many buyers offer to give you EXTRA money to help cover shipping? I've had several conversations with the seller in question on many occasions in the shoutbox, or in threads and thought highly of him. He answered several of my questions and gave me his opinion when I was looking for it. I guess this just goes to show that you can't trust anyone. It doesn't appear to be a case of, "It's okay, I'll just return it and get my money back." Alf's reputation is potentially scarred, because one person who had no reason whatsoever to take an issue to another board and start trash talking the very person who YOU screwed over. Alf those pictures are unbelievable. You can't blame that on UPS. UPS didn't assemble a quad, run it through the mud, and throw it all back in a box. What a disgrace...

Just found these on ebay... 90 degree valve stems

There's only about 1/4" clearance from the caliper with the stock wheel. the only way to do it without the stem rubbing is to invert it and run another valve stem. I'm going to mess with it today and see if I can figure out a way to either move the position of the stem, or something else. I like the look of having no valve stem visible. Maybe a 90 degree stem turned in toward the hub would do the trick?

I've thought the same thing. Some people have said that you'd get a shit ton of bump steer. I looked at some offset douglas wheels on my buddy's shee, and they didn't look too far from where my factory wheels would be, flipped. My plan was to do exactly what you are saying. Drill a new hole directly opposite the factory stem. To plug the hole, just run another valve stem inside out in the factory hole. I'd be interested to see if anyone has done this, and if not, maybe i'll just pick up another set of stock wheels and try it.

Here's a shot at it... had a few minutes to kill.

I think he was referring to just painting the coils themselves, not sure though. As with any paint job, prep is ALWAYS #1. Sandblast, and wipe down everything with alcohol before you paint. Obviously PC would be the best bet, but good quality paint should do the trick. As for disassembling the shocks. This is my forte. When you opened the shocks, did the shock oil smell bad? Even though shocks aren't leaking, if the oil has broken down significantly, the shocks are useless. The best way to tell if shock oil is bad, #1 it will stink. Bad. #2, if you rub some of the oil between two clean fingers, and it leaves a "metallic" residue on your fingers, rebuild the shock. All shocks have a Teflon band that surrounds the piston protecting it from wearing, and acting as a "bearing" on the inside of the shock body. The metallic residue that will be left on your finger i microscopic pieces of that Teflon band that wore off during normal use. The more of the band that wears off, the more oil "sneaks" by the piston, rather than being forced through the valving plates. Thus losing compression and rebound. Good luck!

Dude, what the FUCK is wrong with people these days? MAN THE FUCK UP AND SEND HIM HIS PARTS. Quikshee I remember you posting on the shoutbox like 3 weeks ago about this shit. STILL hasn't been taken care of? This shit needs to end. All you bastards ripping people off need to die. I say ban the son of a bitch.

Are these stock parts? or what?

I'm a big fan of the FMF packing... It's exactly what you need.

2008? You're not in the US, are you? Anywho, if you still have TORS, under the left side pipe, unplug the TORS control box. Should have three wires with a triangular shaped plug. Unplug that and try again. TORS seem to be a recent pain in the ass for most people around here.

I used "Fly" brand packing, as FMF wasn't available. Certain brands market "4 stroke" and "2 stroke" packing. If the FMF is available, use it. If not, so far I've had decent luck with the Fly packing. Since I shortened my silencers 2 inches, one package of Fly worked perfectly. Good luck!

I just repacked a set of original powercores and used "Fly" packing because they didn't sell FMF... So far so good. I rode it for about a week at Glamis. I shortened my silencers two inches so 1 package was enough. I know certain brands have specific packing for 4 stroke, and 2 stroke applications. You can't go wrong with buying the FMF stuff if it's available. They're all about the same price.

Haha, grandnational can't even BUY anything on here anymore, much less sell anything. Go check out the feedback forum... there's all kinds of shit on that guy.

I agree. Nothing drives me nuts more than someone who doesn't care enough to use a damn period or comma once in a while. If you want someone to answer your question, post it in a way that someone can actually read it. Also, how about a few more details as to what the problem is? Without knowing what the problem is, a no-start scenario almost always attributed to one of these things missing. Air, Fuel, Spark, or Compression. Make sure you have all of those. If any ONE of those conditions are not present, you will not having a running motor.

Really? You weren't the one who had another thread posted the same day asking how much to sell them for? Pretty much everyone said the same thing as I did. I think you said something like "Oh... wow, I can't sell these for anything less than 250"? Yeah. I still stand by my statement. It only takes one sucker.

I've got 20 bucks on the fact that this shit never even happened. He probably got shut down by some chick, and decided to make up some god awful story about how he's too badass to have a "bitch" around that fucks his shit up. You're hardcore bro. Real tough. You're lucky one of us wasn't around if this REALLY happened. I'm sure there are more of us out there, other than just me that would make sure your faggot ass never walked again. Grow some goddamn balls and take care of your own issues. It's YOUR fault you left your cylinders wide open. I hope a mouse crawled in there and shit and pissed all over the inside of your cylinders. I don't give a shit what you had to "work hard for". Just because you worked hard for something gives you the right to be a complete cocksucker to people? Good luck on getting that check from her parents bro. What are you, like 16? Get the fuck off the internet and get back to your homework. I hope you hit a tree on those "snowy" roads....