So Cal Suspension

I suddenly like your new forum... Lol

To me, it sounds like you might have a combination of things going. First off... What are you mixing your oil ratio at? Second, What is your jetting at in those stock carbs?

You guys realize he's just trolling to start shit, right? His boyfriend Alfie put him up to it.

How much for the green pretzel?

Works makes an excellent shock, for the money. I used to think Elka's were top of the line, but not anymore. Axis takes the cake in my book. Elka's and Axis are both over priced for what they are, really; but you don't have any other options. For the average rider, a properly set up pair of Works shocks will be indeterminably different than Elka's, or Axis. The fact of the matter is, there are only so many different piston designs, and types of valving setups. You have static valving, and progressive valving. Elka and Axis use static, Works, TCS (Now out of business), and PEP use progressive. When you buy Axis or Elka, primarily you are paying for the name, and pretty billet parts, frankly. The key is, you can never OVER DO suspension, but don't spend more on suspension than you feel comfortable with. Again, any shock that is set up properly, will outperform the most expensive shock off the shelf. Just my two cents... but what do I know about shocks?

That's not a good idea. Spraying it will work temporarily, but in the long run it's just going to attract dirt and other shit in there making the problem worse. Spend the 15 minutes and take it apart. It's two bolts, piece of cake.

Don't waste you're money on a rebuild kit. Take apart your kickstarter, and put an oring that barely fits around the ball in there. Problem solved, forever... for practically free...

Hold it out... In all seriousness, it's not a quick fix. I've never had that part of the stock carbs apart, but I believe there is a small spring-loaded ball-type-thing in there that holds it out. Either the spring is worn out, or there's a bunch of crud inside there not allowing the ball to drop down into the little slot on the choke-shaft-thing-a-ma-jigger. Get it? lol.

Meh...

Ever heard of a TV tray? Doesn't everyone HQ while they dump?

I agree, it's strange that they want you to have em. I've never been to the Oregon dunes, but isn't there a bunch of trees and bushes? Or is it just the fact that the tree huggers are taking over?

Just a thought... but the White Bro's boost bottle I've got sitting here weighs 1.64 oz. 1.64oz directly on top of rubber intakes is almost no weight. The stock crossover tube, according to my scale, weighs .76oz. I mic'd the diameter of both the crossover tube and the boost bottle where it inserts into the intake boots, and they are both roughly 15.30mm. So they aren't stretching out the intake boots, by any means. So lets investigate leverage for a second... the stock cross over tube, while it has a lower center of gravity, still has a mass of .76oz. The boost bottle has most of it's weight up high, with a total mass of 1.64oz. That is a difference of .88oz, total. The boost bottle is approx 1" inch taller than the stock crossover tube, and while taking into consideration the increased mass of .88oz, at 1" above normal, it doesn't seem like heaps of weight/leverage/mass on those intake boots. Perhaps the height of the boost bottle, in conjunction with the fact that the cables, wires, hoses rest on it, might be to blame for the cracked intakes, not necessarily the boost bottle itself. Personally, I have never run a boost bottle, I think they look ridiculous. I have friends who run them, SWEAR they made more power, and have had no issues with them since installing them on their brand new bike in 2003. I, on the other hand, have had two cracked intake boots, with a stock crossover tube, which I attributed to running pods. The amount of weight dangling off the intakes with pods is unfathomable compared to that of a boost bottle, which sits directly in top of the intake boots, providing almost no leverage forward, backward, or side to side. Pods do. Anyways, I'm no engineer, but it would seem to me that if the added .88oz of a boost bottle is to blame for cracked intakes, wouldn't it be a safe assumption that running pods, or larger carbs in the stock intake boots would do more damage??

You would say that...

You can use photobucket.com, and copy/paste the IMG code right here into your post. They will be full size, also.

Thank MJ.... nutswingers...

I've done this dance many-a-times. The Piaa bulbs (if you actually bought the PIAA's, and not knockoffs), are brighter than the 35w lazerstars, or trail-techs. The Tusk bulbs are not as bright as the PIAA's. I've tested them side by side. If you are looking at spending a decent amount of money on lighting, consider doing a DC conversion, and run LED, or HID lights. Or, of course, you can get either a re-wound stock stator, or risk buying a high wattage aftermarket one, and run two more halogen lights on the bars. My vote goes for the DC conversion on the stock stator, and run LED's or HID's.

Might I remind everyone who reads this thread, to redirect your attention to THIS thread: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133195 You're welcome in advance.

Meh... The show was alright. Even smaller than last year. Saw tons of Banshees though... RIS's booth was very nice, their tribute bike looked good. I didn't understand why they had 40% of the place set up for RV's and trailers. I guess to fill space? It was definitely worth the time to walk through it, but the swap meet was better...

I'll be leaving my house in about an hour or so... probably stumble in sometime around noon...

That's why I asked where you were from. In California, Arizona, and MANY other states, you are required to register your bike, just like you would a car. They issue an annual "Sticker" for the bike, just like a license plate on a car. Pertinent information, I think.

I see you just joined the site today. Where is the bike located? Also does it come with a title? Currently registered?

Those things are terrible. I bought them to throw in my tool box... I threw them directly into the trash instead... you go to tighten them up, and they just slip to one side or the other. Absolute garbage. Sorry... lol...

They appear yellow because the bike is at idle. 5000k will not be a BLUE light, but will be almost pure white light. For 8 bucks a piece, it might be worth a shot just to see if they are the color you're after, since you're only looking to change the color temp, not increase lighting.

How do you sell a free item? I think you might be on to something here... new business plan -- Check!

Wickeds are decent arms... If you want the best of the best, get a hold of Tim at Stellar. The man is a psycho when it comes to perfection. Seriously, you can't buy a better product out there.