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Those hoses are to drain the carb when its overfull and also for it to breath.route them in-between the swingarm and the frame MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE THE PIPES HITTING THEM..once you have the air-filters on and what not zip tie them together so they dont get burnt!!

yea..... it does have the fins like stock.i like that look alot better. i really dont want to get one but i have to because i ride at glamis dunes and i have two 38mm keihn carbs and a 7mill that love to empty my gas tank. .hopefully i can have the best of both worlds. i want to see what it looks like b4 i purchase it and get stuck with it... could you post up pictures of banshees with the IMS tank and the cut plastics?? i would really appreciate it

Ur gunna be running a 35mm pkw for the 2-into-1?? my dad was running a 40-42mm with mild dune port..... it ripped.... really responsive on all parts of the powerband.. low mid and top.. id say thats the perfect all round setup ... Everyone doubts that 2-into-1 setup but it shocked the fuck out of me.. he was running with alot of fast bikes

I havent tried them but CASCADE seems to put them on almost all of the bikes they build!! Cheetah's, CUBS and extreemly ported bikes?? i definetly like the way they look though..... for your wife they should be perfect.... what size carb are you going to be running for the 2-into-1?? my dads bike ran sweet with that setup

EXHaust..... T-5'S ARE SWEEETTT!! jetting...air filters.. vforce reeds... ebay will have most of this for a good price... cascade shift star for easy shifts!! Honestly i would just save all your money and buy a cheetah cub set up... 4mill.. (IF I HAD ALL THE MONEY I PUT INTO TRYING TO MAKE IT FAST AND WOULD HAVE JUST SAVED IT FOR A CUB SET UP ID HAVE A 10MILL BY NOW.....)KEEP THAT IN MIND

I run 10-40 synthetic in my 7mill hasent hurt it i figuer the heavier since i live in AZ and its warmer than most places.. glamis gets a lil warm too

I cant decide on which fuel tank i want... its either an IMS 5.6 gallon or a clark 5.5 gallon tank.... Does anyone know how much you have to cut the plastics on either for them to fit?? and if anyone has pictures?? that would be helpful. thanks guys

just spend the cash to get a bore job and new pistons...... ur better off that way.... as far as the "metal gasket" get a new one.... after you torque it the gaskets no good...... MAKE SURE the raised part of the gasket is facing upp. i use threebond to seal it up...WORKS WONDERS .. compression checks are to be done when its warm... i would focus on the reeds make sure they arent stuck or show daylight... get a bore job and new pistions seal it up and go from there

just spend the cash to get a bore job and new pistons...... ur better off that way.... as far as the "metal gasket" get a new one.... after you torque it the gaskets no good...... MAKE SURE the raised part of the gasket is facing upp. i use threebond to seal it up...WORKS WONDERS .. compression checks are to be done when its warm... i would focus on the reeds make sure they arent stuck or show daylight... get a bore job and new pistions seal it up and go from there

VERY TRUE!!! after you get into the motor with a banshee and open it up the 500 has a problem keeping up..... i used to own a 87 LT 500 started riding it when i was 15... sold it when i was 18 bought a banshee and havent been happier..... the only thing i miss is the snappy 2stroke power ALWAYS BEING THERE and that mother fucker rode like a cadillac in the dunes.....

FIRST OFF buy a clutch cover gasket they are 12-13 bucks... Yamabond comes off with a raorblade.....

easiest way to find leaks in gaskets or boots is spray starting fluid around it.. if it idles up you found your leak.....

SWEEEETTTT!!! I just dont understand why it needs to be hardened because it rides on a neopreem wheel... i shaved mine 2 years ago and havent had a problem yett..

ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV.. they have everything

ANY one with a grinder can save 35-40 bucks... no need for the "heat treated" cascade shift star it rides on a neopreem wheel.. why does it needa be heat treated... i did this 2 years ago on my banshee and havent had problems with it, my bike is like override.. once im out of any gear rolling i just hold it wide open and shift upp... People ask what override i have.. i tell them its stock i just modified the shift star.. IT WAS THE CHEAPEST AND BEST THING IVE MODDED ON MY SHEEE

2strokes need to have klotz in the gas... it wouldent have happened ....LOL

I would love to tear up some zillas..... 7-mill with t-5 toomeys mild drag port 38mm carbs and v-force 3 reeds...... keep the front end dow with an 8+ over swingarm.. bye bye zillas

HAHA IF THATS NOT THE TRUTH I DONT KNOW ANY BETTER CHEETAH'S are the shittt

t-5's all day

Magnum basket from F.A.S.T BEST BANG 4 UR BUCK$

i live in PHX AZ Glamis halloween...... thanksgiving new years and any other chance i gett

im just going to go with the shearer's everyone and their mom has CPI and i found shearer's for 580 local i just got the 7mill running an hour ago... started 1st kick!!! let it idle for 15min... checked everything.. i mean EVERYTHING!! took it down the road 1/8th throttle a few times shut it off.... cool down some... start back up warm.. 1/4 throttle tire spin 2nd 3rd 4th. then just putted around the block. checked head nuts.. tourq seems to be rite!! happy so far

that makes the most sense.... also i was wondering if it WAS at one time a bigger stroker motor... do they epoxy the top cases like mine for the bigger stroker.. thanks for the good advise guys!! PS... mine dosent have epoxy on the bottom of the cases...

I would but i have the cylinders on.just got done putting them on and the head also.(wating for the in-frame shearer's. i just asked a local engine builder in PHX and he said that its most likely for crank clearance for the top of the case... he said they cut them where it waS stock so the stroke clears the top case as well as the trenching of the lower case. when i have them apart again i will post pictures because he even said that hes never seen such epoxy...

i have a 7mill stock cylinder 67.25mm big bore moderate port. (a little less than drag. ) boost ports. stock milled head. 38mm keihin carbs v-force 3 reeds.....109 octane...i beat most 4mill cubs with t-5's the guy i bought the bike from didnt even know what he had. he inherited it from his son that died in an accident. i bought it for $3500 in PHX AZ. i took it to the dunes last year as is.. when i got back i rode it out front of my house and it blew a head gasket... come to frind out it pulled a few studs out of the cylinder... took it apart and i have asked many people what this orange/black (epoxy of some sort??) looking stuff that is on the sides of the top of my case where the cylinder bolts down to the top case. its on the side of both rods.. and then there is a hole drilled on each side of the rod.... im thinking it has something to do with crankcase pressure and clearance for the crank?? does anybody know what this would be for or have hear of something like this in stroker motors?? THANKS FOR READING... HOPE SOME ONE CAN HELP OUT