acroadam

I love the power too. Anyways I was in the same boat, well I'm still learning about jetting. If u go to the jetting forum, there is a sticky about jetting, and plug chop. It really helped me out. Try it. Also, look at buying a clymers hand manual. The banshee bible.

Try adjusting air/fuel screw on carb, see if it idles better. Are ur carbs synced?

Thanks man. Ya I think I'm just gonna keep it as it is. Starts up in 2 kicks, and idles great. I was reading the clymers after I did my sync, and it said only adjust left hand throttle cable, well I did both, will it be ok?

Ok.the clymers said to turn the screws till they sit flesh in the carb, then turn each one a 1/8 to get where i need to be. So I can adjust the air/fuel screw at idle with air box and seat on? What if it idles great with it not dieing and drives great, do u think I still need to adjust the screws? Also, on the clymers it talked about a window on the carb for my sleeve, well i didn't do it according to that. I just adjusted the cable nuts so that the sleeves will lift up at the same time when barley pushing the throttle, did I do that right?

Cool. Well I did mess with the air fuel screws at first, will that mess up my jetting? I'm doing a plug chop at the end of the week

I use one from fast, and it works great

Ya my clutch is adjusted perfectly according to the clymers Manuel. I just let it warm up for 5 min and its fine...thanks guys

I used windex..I couldn't find any more leaks to save my life...so i put the motor back together, sync my carbs. Runs awesome. Now when it stops raining, I will do a plug chop..its close, but still a little rich..thanks for the help guys. Adam.

Alright, so what are the screws on the carb for than? Thanks

I sync my carbs tonight for the first time. I had trouble for awhile, but I think I have it sync. I have a sync tool, and I have stock carbs with stock tors. Anyways, at first I put the sync tool on the back side of the carb for idle, and I turn in the screws for air/fuel, and it would not move the gauge at all, but I could hear the banshee idling high, then low. So finally, still at idle I adjusted the big size screw head that is on the tors, and that made the gauge start moving, as well as my idle. So I messes with those, then I held the throttle at mid rev and sync the carbs. Everything read the same at idle and mid rev. I put my air box back on, with no lid, put the seat on, and let it idle for 5min, and it never died. I took it for a ride and it did great. My question is, on the big screw on the tors, is that what I need to adjust, or do I need to focus on more of the screw that is on the carb itself? Because of the YouTube how to videos that showed how to sync a carb had the tors delete kit, and they just adjusted the screws on the carbs. Let me know if I did it right. Hopefully this all makes sense. Thanks. Adam

Thanks everyone..haha, that's a little far for me..thanks tho...I'll be at little Sarah Oklahoma weekend of may 20th

Alright.ya I had the 10 min to 6 min part mixed up....so ur saying if I leave the tester on the whole night and I lose more than one psi, than I have a leak?

I'm doing a leak down test and I read it needs to hold 6psi for 10 min...well within 10min, it will drop almost one psi...I can't find the leak anywhere!....should I just forget about it and put it all together, or keep looking for that leak?

Has it just started too?

Thanks for the reply guys. Ya it just started doing it. And when it does warm up it doesn't do it anymore. So should I change my trans oil, and adjust the clutch? And what kind of trans oil should I use? Thanks

When I start my banshee and let it warm up for 30 seconds to a minute, I put in first gear and it jerks forward and kills the banshee. And when that happens I try starting it in 1st gear it won't start. But after it warms up its fine. But if I really wanted to ride it within 1min, I have to drop the clutch so it will go...any suggestions? Thanks Adam.

Besides the velrco being crap, Does it do it's job?

I seen on eBay a outerware for a stock banshee airbox. It's just like a outerware for your filter, but this fits over the box with Velcro. I was thinking about getting it. It's breathable, and blocks dirt debrie, and it's water repellent material. Selling for 32.00 free shipping.....you guys think its worth it?

Sorry I'm a little confused on what you said.... You said connect the red/black to cdi same color, but then you finished saying I dont need the brown or red wire. I'm confused on the red wire then if you said I didn't use it. Sorry for the confusion . Thanks

I bought this key switch on eBay for my 1997 banshee. Before I had a tethered switch that had 2 wires coming from the switch, this new switch has four wires going into a plug. I was wondering if two of the wires make my headlights work, cuz before they were not working. I don't have the plug on my banshee to plug into the new switch. How do I wire it? The link below is what I bought. Thanks.

I think it's Jeff at fast...he gave me the same price on a milled head. Real nice guy. He deffintly recommended a milled head and +4 timing plate, he said best bang for buck

I thought about spraying my outter wears with scotch guard. I haven't tried it yet, but should help if any water gets on it, it should just bead up....but avoid water if you can

Thanks man...I'll give Jeff a call and see what we can do..I'm gonna so a search on serval top end

I was wondering since my banshee is bored .80 over, can I still do a dune port? Or do i need to buy new jugs that hasn't been ported? ...thanks

Cool..I'm going to try to get in contact with him....appreciate the help.