acroadam

Ya the only reason I think something is out cuz I couldn't get my banshee to roll with the clutch lever in. The accuator arrow was lined up until I messed with it. I'm just gonna order a new adjuster bolt and locking nut, cut it acts like is stripped, put my clutch cover back on, and see if I can get it to roll when everything is on. My plates look great, i didn't measure them tho.

Ok, I'll try that. Do you know signs of a stretched clutch cable? Thanks. Adam

Jeff@ f.a.s.t. has a fly wheel pulled..here's the number, 1-785-364-5325

I checked my clymers and it said that yamaha don't have a specific compression. But what I read on other post if your under 110psi, then it's too low. I think 130psi and above is great. When you check your compression just make sure each cylinder is within 10% of each other.

You know I was thinking the samething cuz I noticed how much pressure the cover puts on everything...i didn't soak the plates cuz they were already saturated. Well I'll back out there and re-adjust everything, and turn it on. I did notice before I tore down everything, is that if I try kickstarting in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in, the banshee would roll like I wasn't pulling the clutch in. So what are signs of a overly stretched cable? Thanks

Ya I'm just trying to get it back together. I'm doing heavy mods next yr so I'll invest in the pancake adjuster then. Do you think if my actuator arrows line up on my engine case, then i should be able to pull the clutch in and move the banshee freely? That's what I'm confused about. I know I put my clutch on right, I followed the book, each step. Could there be slack in the line and still be lined up with the arrow? Thanks. Adam.

Ya I was holding it with a screw driver, and the locking nut kept turning like the bolt is stripped. Is my pressure plate suppose to push out a little when I pull the clutch lever in? And do I just need to buy the bolt and lockiing nut, and the short push rod? Can I just keep my old push rod? Thanks

Ya it moves enough that I can put a penny between the pressure plate. Is the pancake adjuster 11, 12, 13 on the oem parts diagram at cheapcycleparts.com? I went out there to just redo my adjustment, like the clymer said to do, and i can't get the lock nut to stay tight, it just wants to spin. I even unloosened the lock nut on the handle bar lever, and turned the clutch cable bolt in towards the lever to let some slack out...nothings working right. Ahhhh.

I still have my clutch cover off, so I do it when it's not running. I thought the clutch was adjusted right cuz there is good tension with my clutch handle lever. And the acuator arrows are lined up. I did go back out there and I put pressure with my hand on the shift shaft that sits on the shift star, and I got it shifted into neutral, and it rolls fine. So don't know why it wouldn't roll with the lever pulled back. It wouldn't matter what gear your in as long as you have the lever pulled back. So I don't know if I fixed it...anymore ideas? If the arrows line up, and you have good tension on the clutch handle lever, is it adjusted right? And the adjustment bolt, I noticed when i tighten it, it's still loose, is that normal? And how far out should my pressure plate come out when I pull the lever in? Thanks. Adam

I just re-installed my clutch. I did everything as the clymer said. I torqued my clutch nut to 66 ft lbs, when put my metal plates I lined the first one with the arrow, then stacked each one 60 degrees clockwise. Tighten down my 6 pressure screws, I did a crisscross pattern at 7.4 ft lbs. My clutch cable is lined up with the arrows. Ok, here is the problem, the banshee won't move when the clutch is pushed in. It acts like its in gear when I have the clutch lever pulled in. When I find neutral, it acts like its in gear. I'm confused on why it won't let me free push the banshee. Is there something I did wrong? Let me know shee masters. Thanks. Adam.

Might be a liitle rich. Check your air/fuel screws on the carbs.

And knowing is half the battle

Oh, ok big red350x, I know what your talking about now...the steel plates are round then they indent and have a point. The clymers had the point lining up with the arrow on the clutch boss, then 60degree clockwise for the other steel plates. That clymers is real helpful, but I'm glad I have your guys input to further my knowlege. Thanks.

Hmm..I wonder if my clutch is aftermarket..it is. 1997 shee. So I don't need to buy the rings? And when i install the clutch, do i need to do what the clymers said, and line up the first Clutch plate with the arrow on the basket, then the next clutch plate, align it 60degrees clockwise? Thanks Adam.

I'm trying to re-install my stock clutch, I was reading thourgh my clymers, and it said to install a o-ring behind the clutch housing, it should sit right behind there, anyways when I pulled my clutch off there wasn't an o-ring behind the clutch housing. Do I need to buy one? And when intalling my clutch plate and friction plate it requires a cushion ring, and again this clutch didn't have one. Do I need to buy this too? And how many of the cushion rings do I need? It says install remaining cushion rings along with the friction and clutch plates. so I'm confused why my clutch didn't have these o-rings and cushion rings to began with. Thanks Adam

Ok...I'll look into bel ray, see if it's cheaper.

Alright guys..thanks. And is there any other trans oil you like to use?

Is there a torque spec for the transmission oil drain bolt? And what trans oil does everyone recommend? I live in springfield mo, so the weather is getting nicer, don't know if that would have any effect on what trans oil to recommend. Thanks. Adam.

I don't know if this would help. But check and see if the clutch that sits on the shift star, see if the top and bottom are sitting on the shift star pegs the same distance. I hope I'm not confusing. Adam.

Clean your carbs

Thats what it was. Pin dowel for my segment. The bolt holding the segment was loose. Would it be ok to use lock tight on that screw?

Thanks big red. Is that something that usually happens? I have a clymers, should i look thourgh it as I go thourgh my clutch? And what's it gonna be that i have to replace? The shift star? Thanks

Thanks hard luck........does anyone have a clue. The only reason i drained my oil was because I seen that my drain plug was leaking a little out, so I ordered a new drain plug...nothing was rattling...it's a fresh rebuild, maybe a couple weeks, if that. But it did sit for 2 years before i did the rebuild..but after the rebuild, it's pulling great . The only thing that maybe wrong is that when it's first warming up I put it in 1st gear and jerks real bad and dies..but if I give it gas and push into first gear it's fine...then after five min of ridiing, 1st gear is fine..

If you don't feel comfortable sharing your email address, just pm it to me...I need help asap....I'm trying to figure out photo bucket

I can't post pics for some reason...but I need someone who can tell me what this is...it came out while I was draining my trans oil. Just post ur email then I can email you the photo...thanks Adam