acroadam

Hmmmm...I see. How hard is it to split the cases?

Alright. Guys thanks. One question, can I just yamabond the seal, without buying a new seal? And what will eventually happen if I dont fix it correctly? Thanks

I was doing a leak down test, and in the process, tranny oil starting gushing out this hole on top of my engine, right were the back shock bolts onto the frame. I have pics below to what hole I'm talking about. I loose about 3-4 psi within 6mins. Do I have an internal leak? If so, where is it likely to leak air inside? I heard a keyway could leak, what else? http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x392/s_portrey/Adam/

Thanks guys...can someon post a pic on the crank key..if it's leaking air on my clutch side, it won't hurt my pistons will it? Thanks...and yes I checked for leaks around my spark plugs, and tester, and no leaks.

I'm gonna buy new covers for my exhaust ports. I think it's wore out, and maybe leaking air. But I haven't found any bubbles at all

I took apart my clutch to replace my shift shaft oil seal, and I was wondering do I need to do a leak down test since I took off my clutch cover? I did one anyways, and it leaked 2psi in 6mins. I did a prior leak down test before I took off my clutch cover, and it leaked half a pound in 6mins. I checked for leaks on my clutch cover, and no bubbles are showing a leak. I have no clue why I would lose 2psi in 6mins...any suggestions?

Mine does the samething. Especially when it's not fully warmed up. I have to throttle it when goin in first so that it will not kill it. After I run it thourgh the gears it's fine. My accuator arrow lines up perfect on the case too.

It probably will need it now since you said it! It's still good. I'll have that oil seal Wednesday. Will see if I have anymore leaks

Yup. They did order the wrong seal. Parts number is for acuator/clutch arrow...sucks..o well..maybe they will let me keep this and just buy me the right one..you never know

Man.. I think yamaha ordered the wrong oil seal. The reason I thought it was the right oil seal is because it had that wired spring inside the seal. I think they ordered me a acuator oil seal. The seal I ordered won't even fit inside the shift shaft engine mount

Ok..thanks Jared. I had that side cover taken apart. I'll go back out there and do what you said. Thanks. Adam

My oil seal for my shift shaft was bad. So I took the old seal out, got the new seal in today. I can't seem to get it in. Do I need to split the case for this little oil seal? Any suggestion? Thanks. Adam

The clymers hand manual said the banshee doesnt have a specific compression numbers for the cylinders. But like sleeper06 said, should be 120-130, and between 5 psi from each cylinder

I thought there was no cushions needed

A lot of members has recommended the clutch from f.a.s.t. racing. There is a link on this website for his website. Lotta guys use atf for oil

Try adjusting your idle screws on the tors box

I use simple green for the case, carbs, (outside of carbs) and cylinders..are you talking about internals?

I bought mine from amazon.com. You might be able to find one at a yamaha dealership...but for sure at amazon.com

Ya the slides are in right, cut off towards the back....I just noticed I didn't screw down my tors box all the way , and I should have used my carb sync tool to sync the carbs. I messed with the two big screws on the tors box, just by sound to ear. So I need to use the tool, then put my air box back on, then adjust my air screws. My jetting is 300 main, 27.5 pilot, 3rd needle clip...it should run like it did two weeks ago...then I'll pit in the oil for the trans I had before. I just can't seem to get it to quit seeping out of that one screw...I'm gonna take it apart and spray gasket sealant on my gasket...anyone ever use a tachometer to determine rpms?...and what does a slipped clutch feel like? Thanks all for the replys! Adam

So trans oil has that much effect? I'll go back to my old one. Ya when I pull the choke it kills it after it's warmed. But there are time I'll go out after work, and not even pull the choke out, and it starts up on first kick...is that a sign of running too rich?

I facing the same issue...I need to get my carbs synced better...and then mess with the air/fuel screws...maybe try the same....mine don't rev real high, it just starts, then it gets a tad higher, and a tad sppratic....hopefully this helps...maybe we can fig it out...I'm gonna mess with mine when my pipes cool down...if it fixes it then I'll let you know

Stock engine. Bored .80 over. Elevation is 1300. Fmf fatties.. And honestly my brother jetted it and he jetted it rich, I think 300 main and I can't remember what the pilot is or clip...I tired calling him but no answer...anyways...stock air box, no lid.....and it doesn't rev on it's own, just when I throttle it...also it could be rich, cuz when I pull the choke out, it should rev higher, am I right? Cuz it dies when i pull the choke out

One more thing, it starts up first kick, and when I throttle it, it doesn't stay high in rpms, but doesn't go way down like if I just kickstarted it. Hope that makes sense.

Well I just put my clutch back together last night. Put the cover on, did a leak down test, passed. Sync my carbs, using the carb windows. I have tors box, so I adjusted the idle speed like the clymer said. Turned my air/fuel screw two turns out, then adjusted the screw on the tors box. I don't have a rpm gauge, so I just try to hear what idle should sound like. Put yamalube SAE 10-40 all purpose performance four stroke trans oil in it. It seems to seep a little oil out of the cover screw where the foot peg is at, can't get it tighter cuz I'll strip the head of the screw. So I can't get it to quit seeping, but it never showed up in the leak down test. I torqued my clutch springs screws 7.4 ft lbs. It had an 3/16 even gap when I pulled the clutch in. Now the problem is, it won't run like it did 2 weeks ago. It would pull so hard that I can pop up the front 1st thourgh 3rd gear, now it barely comes up in first gear. It seems to have power, but not what I had two weeks ago. The only thing different is the trans oil I put in it. Is my clutch slipping? Also before I took it apart, it used to die when it was first warming up, from neutral into first gear. I would have to throttle it a little so it wouldn't kill it. Now I can engage into first, and it dosent kill it, it gives it a tug like it's in first, but not like it used to two weeks ago. Carbs are clean, I shook my gas tank before I ran gas thourgh it. Is it running too rich? Do I need to mess with the air/fuel screw more? New clutch springs? Confused here. Any help/suggestions appreciated. Thanks. Adam.

Jeff at f.a.s.t. has milled head for 45.00