burhead

Finally got them installed on the bike. I can't wait until the weather warms up so I can try them out. The look is pretty much what I was going for. They look like an unpolished aluminum piece.

They were still wet in the picture. After I baked them they dulled down a bit. They look more like raw aluminum now. The product is available from tech line coatings. It is spray on. I bead blasted the pipes then applied the coating using a 15 dollar harbor freight detail gun. They look much better than black IMHO especially since my bike has a silver frame. There are several colors available, this one is "aluminum". I was going to go with the titanium finish and will probably try that on the next pipe I do.

Well this coating is as durable or better than powder coating. How do I know? I had to strip one of the pipes down. When I baked it, it bubbled up. I thought "no bid deal, nothing a little sandblasing cant handle". Wrong. After 2 hours and only about half of the pipe done, I went to air craft stripper followed up with 60 grit sand paper. Still have to hit all the welds with the sand blaster and recoat. The "grill paint" that came on these pipes was completely stripped from the pipe in about 20 minutes.

Finally got my R2s coated with DIY cherama chrome. The stuff was pretty easy to apply and looks great. I hope it holds up well and does what it claims to do.

anyone got a shot of their banshee from the rear with powercore silencers. Looks to me like the silencers would have to go through the grab bar. I found a post on the site where someone was having a similar issue but the pics wouldn't show up. thanks kevin.

I am trying to mount an aftermarket grab bar to my banshee. The powercore silencers seem to be in the way like maybe they stick out too far to the rear. Anyone else run into this issue with these silencers?

I have a 96 banshee with just bolt ons. Last time I had it apart, I noticed the whole clutch assembly had some play in it. It is the original stock basket but the plates and fibers are pretty new. I am thinking I will replace the basket before something bad happens. What is a good basket to replace it with. I don't plan on doing any other mods. Should I just get a good used stocker or upgrade to an aftermarket. I see that if I go with certain aftermarket baskets, some modifications may be necessary to make it reliable. Any advice is appreciated.

I currently run fmf fattys which I feel make a pretty good trail pipe. I will be switching to R2s over the winter. I have heard from some that they felt an overall gain pretty much everywhere over the fattys. I also heard these pipes work well down the road if you decide to do port work. Most say the t6s dont respond well to porting. I know this wasn't one of your choices but just throwing my .02 in.

timing plate and have the head shaved.

for chrome, just about anything works good. If you are doing aluminum though it has to be semichrome. I also use a sealer (cant remember the brand) but it keeps the aluminum shiny longer. I think the sealer is called master formula or something like that.

I would be careful with that jetting. I have found that pod filters usually flow better than stock boxes and drop in filters. By changing to pods and dropping the jet size that much, you may now be lean. I dont have any experience with those pipes or your altitude or weather conditions but I bought my bike blown up. Had 260 mains with FMF pipes at 2300 ft and holes in the pistons. When I rebuilt it I ended at 320 mains. I run my bikes a bit rich as the performance gains don't outweigh the risk of burning up a set of pistons and ruining a riding weekend.

Hope you know what you are doing. This is one area I would hate to have fail on my bike. I have a good friend that found out what happens when a suspension component cuts loose on a wide open run. I went and put new ball joints and tie rods on all my bikes after that accident. You could get a set of used ones or at the least go with a set of YFZ arms for minimal cost.

Chuck Norris doesn't believe in the periodic table of elements. The only element Chuck Norris believes in is the element of surprise.

I have paid that much before but it was at and ATV rally so I figured that they were just gouging people. Both the yamaha dealer and the honda dealer in my town sell them to me for that price. The guys at the Honda dealer is an old friend of my wife, if I am in there just for a jet or 2 he hooks me up. They both have these big yellow containers full of jets so I'd imagine they buy them for pennies.

FAST is still awesome. If you are really anxious to get them going I know a polaris guy that also does banshees and 250r motors. I use him for all my polaris 2 strokes and he is great. He will send you a fresh set of cylinders and charge you a core, then you send your cylinders back and he credits you back the core charge. I have done this a couple of times and it works pretty slick, I can do a topend in one evening instead of 2. I did my last banshee topend through him and his prices were spot on. His name is Rick Ritter and he is Ritter cycle racing out of Illinois. Not trying to steer you away from any of the site sponsors but if quick turn around is what you want, this is an option.

ill take the shocks. PM me your paypal and I will send the money.

I managed to get one out that had mushroomed. I took out the clutch actuator arm on the top left side of the motor. I used a dremel tool with a flexible extension. I was able to grind down the mushroomed area. Then I used a stick magnet to retrieve the actuator out of the right hand side of the motor. Took about an hour and a little bit of cussing but much easier than pulling the motor and splitting the cases.

What pilots are you running. I think the air screw is only effective to 2.5 turns out. The air screw and pilot are only going to have an effect up to the 1/4 throttle position. I think you would be best off taking it out somewhere that you can make a few wide open passes and check your plugs. get your mains set first and then worry about the air screw, pilot and needle.

I usually just go down to the local ATV dealers to get my jets. Most charge about $1 per jet and sometimes the parts guys just gives them to me because he doesn't want to mess with ringing them up.

you may have to but get your mains set first. Also I would guess that 260s may end up being a little small but that depends on your other mods and your altitude. I am at 2200 feet with just a shaved head and aftermarket filter in the stock box. I ended up at 320s and 27.5 pilots. My bike came with 260s in it and also 2 melted pistons. My advice is start high and work your way down get the jetting right at wide open throttle and then mess with the needles, air screw and pilot jets.

did the grab bar sell?

Ill take the grab bar if it isn't gone. PM me your paypal info.

did you remember to put the choke tube back in?

Ill take them! let me know where to send the money.

That is a pretty clean bike. I would check all the wearable items, ball joints, chain sprockets, various bushings ect. That always seems to be the things that get me when buying a used quad. I'm a cheap ass so I wouldn't pay 2500 for it, I would start low and go up from there. You can do a compression check just like a car. I would recommend doing it.