burhead

thanks for the reply. I have decided to go with the 330s. I wont be able to do a chop because the bike wont be back together until late tomorrow night (welded the clutch actuator oops) So I was hoping to get it right this time around because I am leaving for our weekend ride on friday.

Hve you checked the choke tube between the carbs. Mine came loose once and I had starting issues and when it would start it ran like crap.

I just talked to jeff at f.a.s.t. My parts may be in tomorrow but otherwise black RTV it is. On a related note. I would like to give a plug to fast. Top notch service and a really knowledgeable guy. He tries to make sure you have all your bases covered before the order goes out. Big thanks to them.

I am going to order a gasket tomorrow. The problem is it wont be here until friday at the earliest. I am leaving friday for a ride. This is only going to be temporary. thanks for the tip on the black stuff.

Sounds like you have the exact same setup I have. I went .030 on the head. My only complaint is the pipes. I wish I would have went for something with more bottom end. Mine has gotten better now that the jetting is close to being correct. I use mine for trail riding and I cant see wanting anything faster.

I recently did a rebuild, shaved the head, and did a timing advance. I got the bike with 260s in it and it was burned up. So after the rebuild I went to 300 mains and 30 pilots. Did a couple of plug chops and it seemed ok. The weather has since cooled off (low 60s compared to mid 90s) so I stuck a 310 in there thinking that would get it. Did a couple of pulls and my plugs are a little too light for my liking. They are very light tan like a lightly toasted marshmallow. So do I got to 320s or 330s. I am tempted to just stick the 330s in because I would rather be rich than lean but I also really hate taking these carbs off it is a pain with the t.o.r.s on there. Any advice is appreciated. Also I am running fmf fattys and a pro design foam air filter with no lid on the stock box. I am at 1500 ft.

Ok so I have never used yamabond. How does it come back off. I have used rtv red gasket maker and it comes off really easy which would be ideal. Also I was looking at the stock gasket it apears that it has all kinds of extra materal that just extends inside the case. I suppose it just makes the gasket less flimsy. I am thinking I only need to seal up around the screws and the water pump pipe. It doesnt appear that the gasket really seals up anything inside the case.

I might be the dumbest banshee owner ever. I was out doing plug chops to check my jetting and held the clutch in while coasting to a stop from a 6th gear wide open pull. Well as most have probably guessed, I managed to weld the clutch actuator to the ball. I got the actuator out by using a snake tool on a dremel and grinding the mushroomed end off the actuator (picked that tip up from someone here and it actually worked. I stole some parts off of a spare bottom end and amgetting ready to reassemble. The problem is that I manage to tear the clutch cover gasket in the process. I have a trip this weekend and need this thing going. My options are: Use a roll of gasket material and make my own gasket (very tedious process) or use some yamabond or other gasket making material. Any one tried gasket maker with any success. Any and all opinions appreciated. thanks

I just bought one from FAST. I bought it with a bunch of other parts but I am guessing it was around 50 bucks or so. So far I am pleased with the results. it was a cheap and easy mod. Mine is made by ricky stator.

I am running 300 mains and 30 pilots. I think I am going to try 27.5 pilots and maybe lower the needle one notch. Thanks for the replys.

I had heard good things about the PT mids from the guy that did my machine work on the topend. He said the fatty's were also a good trail pipe and I opted to go with them because they were already on the bike. I am also questioning my reed setup. It is a boysen rad valve with the carbon petals. I have run these on my polaris' and the only real difference I noticed was snappier throttle response. Anyone else running the boysens? I think I am going to play with the jetting somemore and see if leaning it out will help any. Thanks for any input you guys may have.

So is there a better set of pipes out there to get some low end. The stocker I rode didnt have the bog that this one has. For the type of trails I ride coupled with the short power band this thing has, this thing is gonna be a handful.

I am running 91 octane pump gas. What are you guys using for front sprockets. I was under the impression that fattys were supposed to be a low to mid range pipe. Mine seem to do well in the mid range but perform poorly in the low rpms.

I am new to banshees but not to 2 strokes. I recently bought a 96 banshee that was blown up. I put a rebuilt bottom end in it and a new topend. It has fmf fatty pipes, boysen rad valve, open airbox, and milled head. The problem is that it seems to have very little bottom end and a very short and somewhat violent powerband. It seems as if 2nd through 4th gear just blow by and I find my self having to downshift from 6th to 5th alot. I have only ridden one othere bashee before this one and it was 100% stock. I am just wondering if this is the nature of the beast or if my jetting is off or possibly geared too tall. It currently has a 14 tooth front sprocket (the one on my other motor was a 13 tooth). It is jetted with a 30 pilot and a 300 main at 2000 ft. The plug shows a black slightly grey insulator. I am accoustomed to polaris 400 2 strokes and honestly my modified 400 sport would give this thing a run for its money in a 300 ft race and would kill it on the trails. The power goes from nothing to wheels spinning through a couple gears then 5th and 6th are kinda blah. Anyone got any ideas of what I got wrong?

I have a basket case 95 banshee that I just got done rebuilding. It has fmf fatty pipes, a foam airfilter in the stock box, boost bottle, delta reeds and a shaved stock head. I was looking at a good starting point. The guy that did my machine work is a polaris 2 stroke guru but does banshees and 250rs aswell. He recommended going rich on the break in (as I have done on all my polaris motors) and recommended somewhere around a 290- 300 main. I put the 300 main in and left the pilot alone. I still have to get the motor back in the frame but I was wondering what others were running.

is there something wrong with red and yellow banshees? I bought one last month for 700 that has the same story. The kid told me it was running crappy because it needed carb work. I got there to find it didnt run at all and when he finally got it to go it was on one cylinder. I was hoping for a top end but ended up doing the bottom as well. Oh well I love to work on stuff so its all good. Good luck Im sure it will be a fun project.

So I have a 95 banshee that I will be putting 01 motor in. I have been told the only difference is the wiring for the stator. I can see that they have different connectors but is there any difference in the stators themselves. I was originally going to swap the stators but I have since decided to scrap the adjustable timing plate idea because work is slow and I have spent too much money already on this rebuild. So tonight I went out and thought I would just see if I could get either flywheel off because I spent good money on the puller. I couldnt get either flywheel off because of my crappy impact. Anyways so now Im just thinking of swapping the plugs. Either swapping the one on the bike to the new style or swapping the one on the motor to the old style. I figured that way I would have a 6 year newer stator on my bike. I guess the basic question is: Are the stators the same and does anyone have a junk 95 stator they would like to part with (for the plug)? Thanks in advance.

wow you guys are fast. Yea I just went out and starte scraping around the old one and it isnt welded it is some kind of sealant around it. it looked like it was brazed (like when plumbers join their piping) turned out it was just some grey sealant of some sort. so is that necessary because the new motor doesnt have it?

I went to swap the clutch cover from my old motor to the "new motor" I bout off of flea bay tonight. I noticed that the tube that goes to the head from the water pump was loose where it goes through the case. I looked at my other motor and it appears that it it welded in place. This one is clearly not welded and moves back and forth but it is held in by a small retainer clip. So I was wondering if I could just aply some JB weld on the outside of the case to keep it from leaking and to help hold it in place. Has anyone had this part break loose before?

how much for the seat, reeds, and grab bar to 51106?

I have the motor torn out of a 95 banshee I bought. I got to looking at the reeds tonight and the top petals are carbon fiber and the bottom petals are a clear plastic type of material. Is that what comes stock or did somebody mix and match things. The cage appears to be stock or atleast ther is no brand stamped on them. I will try to get some pics tomorrow. What do you guys recommend boysen or v force?

well I pulled the motor today and dumped the premix I had in there and strained it through a screen. Nothing major came out. I ran premix through it several times and it was clear when I was done. I am almost positive this thing was sucking sand when it went because the kid that had it before me never bothered to oil the filter before he rode it. So I am on the fence if I am going to go through the bottom end or not.

Is there a drain for the crank case. I went ahead and poured some premix in before I saw the post. Now I cant get it to drain. I guess I will be pulling the motor tomorrow to dump it out and see what comes out.

i knew this was going to be bad news when I saw the pistons. I am pretty mechanically inclined but this winter I tried splitting the cases on a polaris 2 stroke and ended up ruining the crack because I didnt have the proper tools. My biggest challenge is going to be time because I dont have much of it to mess with these things. The polaris was a boat anchor anyways I just wanted to seperate it to see what I could salvage. It looks like the banshees split hrizontally instead of vertically like the polaris'. Is that correct? Anyways I already have a guy lined up to do the topend. Ritter cycle does all my polaris topends so maybe I will see what he charges to go through the bottom end as well. What does it generally cost to have someone do the bottomend of one of these? Any recommendations on who to send it to? I dont trust the local shops in my area to touch any of my bikes so that is not an option. They all have a bunch of lawn mower mechanics working for them and they get 70 bucks an hour to screw stuff up.

Is there a recomended method for removing particles of a piston from the crankcase. I bought a banshee that was running on one cylinder and was tearing it down today. Both pistons were pitted up pretty badly and some of the top rings were missing from both pistons. The right side was burned and pitted pretty good, the left was mostly pitted. I would expect most of it went out the exhaust but as I was lifting one of the cylinders off I think a piece of the piston might have broke off and fell down in the crank. Now when I spin the crank sometimes it will catch alittle on the piece that is in there. So is there a good method for flushing it out. I was thinking of pulling the drainplug and running some premix gas through it and seeing what comes out. Anyone got any better suggestions before I split this thing open and spend a bunch more money.