Larry's Shee

What size are those Js? What did they cost and how long to get them? My son missed out on some Js on Egay recently

I'll get flamed for it, butt fuck it . Seeing you're close to TDR, go talk to them. Been on their web site and they have a lot for banshees.

What more do you want? EXACT jetting? That's impossible, every bike is different, even two "identical" quads sitting next to each other might need different settings. There is more than enough info given for starting point. One thing I see wrong with your set-up is your choice of fuel. Unless you have mods you haven't disclosed, you're wasting money and probably loosing power with 50/50 fuel mix. JMHO, your results may, and will vary

check that all grounds including coil mount are clean, bare metal.

Make your carbs pussy clean. Set float. Leak down test. Fix leak, don't try to jet it away. I bet it would have been easier to search/ask questions then to randomly tear topend apart.

Be sure to be in contact when you get closer to your build so you can get it together and tuned by racing season, almost always takes longer than you think.

Considering a Banshee isn't that great in handling, think how it is with 150+ lbs extra

Vents I refered to are two hoses off side of carbs on stockers, air has to get in and out as fuel level changes. Ohm your stator, coil and plug caps. Check ALL wireing , connections, and grounds. Might have to use process of elimination. If you have acess to another complete electrical/ignition system, try the pieces one at a time, especially cdi as there is no way to test it.

Check all vents on carbs and fuel cap

If you ride knarly trails I'd go 22s. If you think it's geared a little high drop the front sprocket one tooth.

Don't know about idle but will mess with everything else. If float needle is good and laevel is set, try this http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/ Also check O-ring on outside of needle seat.

I would check with Mull and see if they can work with the head that's already milled .040. If not send them your other head.

I would check with Mull and see if they can work with the head that's already milled .040. If not send them your other head.

YFZ a arms on a banshee is nothing but a Prezidential Solution

I hit my thumb with a hammer once, then I hit it again just to be sure that's why it hurt.

Clean carbs one at a time as parts are carb specific, set float level. Start at 1 1/2 out on air screw. I prefer soaking carbs but completely dissassemble , carb spray and compressed air will work. Be sure to take pilot jet out, make sure the jet is open. Sync carbs best you can and do a plug chop.

Cutaways face air filter, could also be bad reeds.

I depends whether you are trying to find a leak or testing on new assembly. If new test before eithet side is assembled , if you have a case leak no sense having to pull clutch back off. If you think engine sprung a leak, start by spraying easy acess areas with soapy water, putting vent hose in glass of wter may tell of case or clutch side seal leak. If you have a base gasket leak, don't need to tear everything apart. Be sure to check spark plugs for leak also.

Start by checking with site sponsers Fast or M&M, then try Sudco or Carb parts warehouse. Worse case rebuild kit off EGay.

Good candidate for mill/rechamber. Forget which sponser it is. Costs $80-85 aprox.

I have a lower A arm with broken ball joint you can have, pay shipping.

If you need chains on a Banshee, it's time o get the sled out

I challenge you to find ONE of these that doesn't look like Hillbilly Hack Fuck too. The frame just isn't tall enough. Consider a YFZ or Craptor to start with. If you say it's cause you have the Banshee, sell it to get something better to start with. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.