figure8racer7463

Hey does anyone have a cheap stock clutch basket or gears from the rear of the basket they want to sell cheap? I dont need anything besides the gears but will buy the basket also if i need to. I can do paypal and dont want to spend more than $50 if i can help it. Let me know. THanks.

Yeah maybe i will start with replacing that bearing and the gears just because mine are showing wear and slight damage which i figure could also cause a bind issue. MY problem with the idler gear was that it popped the clip off that holds it on and when it happened it damaged the end of the shaft and the clip will not stay on any more. Rather than split the cases right now to replace the shaft i had the welding shop weld the wahserto the shaft therefore holding the idler gear on till the winter when i will split the cases and plan on a complete rebuild with porting and a few other goodies. I really appreciate the help and will kepp updating on my progress.

Thats what i thought about the basket also. I used to go on easy no problem until the gears started to show wear. I plan on replacing the gears but am on a limited budget so dont want to replace anything that doesnt need it. I did pull the basket and everything besides the gears looks ok but like i said im not good at diagnosing items which arent obvious. It shifted ok last night through 2nd but i didnt try going any further. I will give that a try tonight. I'm not worried about splitting the cases i can get it done but dont want to if i dont have to. THanks! any other advice would be great.

OK when it is in neutral the axle/rear tires will spin free with no problem but still wont kick over. Should i try installing and new kicker assembly all together? Maybe it is engaging the idler gear kinda funky?

OK guys i was riding 3 weeks ago just cruising up a hill in like 2nd gear not pushing it just cruising along. All of a sudden the shee made a wierd noise, not really a knock more of a mix of whirring/grinding. When it started making this noise it immediately lost all power/died and coasted to a stop. I couldnt shift at all and couldnt engage the clutch. The lever had no pressure and just bottomed out. I pulled the cover off out in the field and removed the clutch springs and screws to disengage the clutch/tranny. I thought the pancake bearing had worked its way loose because when I re-adjusted it and reinstalled the springs and screws everything worked as it should at least with the motor not running. I did not continue to ride since i didnt have any tranny fluid with me so we trailered it and took it home. When i got home i pulled the clutch cover and noticed that the idler gear bushing was shot and it was wobbling pretty bad on the shaft so i ordered and new one from Jeff and installed it on the idler gear. A while back my idler gear popped off the shaft and the groove for the clip was damaged so i couldnt re-install it. I had the idler gear welded on the shaft so i could wait till winter to tear it apart since im going to do a compelte rebuild and just wanted to get it through the summer. I had the welding shop weld the outer washer on the shaft up tight against the idler gear and it still spins like it should on the shaft so i dont think it is the problem but im definately not an expert. Since i was in there i installed a billet basket and put it back together. My problem is last night i finally got it all buttoned up and went to kick it over and cant kick it at all. The kick start lever will not go down even an inch. Before i installed the new basket i checked to make sure the kicker gear would engage the idler gear properly and it worked as it should. Once i installed the basket which went on very hard and had to be beat on with a rubber mallet it seemed to cause it to bind up. The big gear on the back of the basket is a little chewed up but not completely trashed and the smaller gear on the back of the basket doesnt look perfect but is in pretty decent shape. I can turn the crank over with a wrench with no problems so i dint think it is a bottom end motor problem (again not an expert could be wrong). What could be the problem? Should i replace the gears? I have an extra set of the big gear and crank gear that are a matched set in perfect shape that i could put on but dont have the smaller gear. Should i get one of those also? My biggest worry is that it is an internal tranny problem but im not sure. I can take em apart and put em back together but dont have enough experience with a banshee to diagnose problems that aren't visually evident. I realize that i probably shouldnt have forced the basket on there but when i spun the crank gear after the basket was installed, the basket and idler gear were spinnig like they should and without an unusual amount of resistance so i figured it was OK. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as i am supposed to race the DS650 this weekend (refrenced in another thread of mie) and dont want to miss the ride. THanks guys!

I've heard that tama is the best but iowa city is supposed to be pretty good too. check out http://www.iowaohv.com/custompage2.asp?pg=rules for info and maps

Hey my buddies and i are from indianola. I know it is more central iowa but we come over to Tama and Iowa City to the OHV parks there.

O.K guys we should find out this coming weekend. My Buddy is wating on a new radiator and as soon as he gets it we are heading out. I will let you know how it goes and will try to get video.

No need to be sorry man i set it up that way for a reason.... i primarily ride tight trails and thats whats best for me. I just wondered if i was gonna bea able to beat him. Didn't mean to start a flame war lol

Same deal as above but i can taqke paypal and will ship same day. Let me know. Or i will sell you a set of older works with rezzies that need cleaned up but work well for $175 shipped

come on guys, with my graphics kit and billet brake reservior i've got to be pushing at least 75hp

Good enough. Sounds like rider ability is going to be the biggest deciding factor. Thanks for the help.

Yeah he was kind of taken back that i was willing to race for that much so it will be just for fun. I will try to make the race as short as possible so that a holeshot might win it. How do the DS's compare to a 500 predator. We ride with one of those and the rider is way more experienced than me and i can usually get him by 1 or 2 lengths. The DS does have old worn out tires so that will help also. Thanks for the info!

OOPS i meant smaller front sprocket

I've also got a smaller rear sproket also so i may pull him off the line. Is there anything else i can do to beat him besides port work or a stroker?

I'll trade ya my 96. Mods in my sig. Tank cover is now yellow and has works with rezzies on front now, rear lowering kit, billet basket. Let me know.

I owe him $200 and i told him i'd double it if he could beat me 3 out of 5 but he started backing down. He doesnt really know shit about quads but he just got it tuned up and went for a test ride and was talking mad shit.

Hey guys my buddy just bought an 01 Bombardier DS 650 all stock except for HMF pipe and silencer. Most of my mods are in my sig but i have added 18" razr MX's to the rear. Will i be able to beat him in a drag? He's talking mad shit about how i dont have a chance so i figured i'd get your opinion. THanks!

X2 on that i ordered a bunch of stuff from hom at like noon on friday last week and he shipped same day and received on monday. Great customer service and unbeatable turn around on my parts.

I didnt realize that you hadnt replaced the idler gear bearing yet. Yeah that is most likely going to clear it all up. Dont worry about your crank right now. Take one roblem at a time. Probably nithing. Mine is hard to turn also. Gotta remember without it running your cylinders are not being lubed and could make it harder to turn also.

I think it may be possible that the idler gear is binding with the gear on the back of the clutch basket. I am going through the exact same problem with mine right now without the rattle. When i start to tighten down the clutch basket it wont kick over any more. Make sure the teath on bothe idler gear and gear on back of the basket arent damaged or binding somehow. When i get my parts and get mine fixed i will let you know what i did to fix it. I may be way off base on this also, im not an expert but that was the only thing i could think of that would be causing it.

MY 70 C-10 long box. She is a 1970 frame with a 1972 body on it. The frame was stripped and painted with gloss black implement paint. It has a 9inch rear end with 28 spline axles and 4:11 gears, a four link weld in rear setup with QA-1 adjustable show chrome coilovers. It has all new front suspension with new springs, shocks, lowering spindles. Dropped 3

Agree with the above. The shift star may not be the problem but while you are in there you may as well take care of now instead of in the future. I had this exact same problem about a month ago and found out my shift adjust screw and a few other things had worked their way loose. If i was you i would replace the shift adjust screw and washer, shift shaft, idler gear bushing, and anything else that is showing wear. I didnt replace the bushing on my idler gear and it popped off and damaged the end of the shaft it sits on. Now over the winter im going to have to split the cases and replace the shaft. Again most of those things may not need replaced but if you have the $ i would just do it as a little preventative maintenance.

Friends dont let friends ride with dumbo ears.

Because they were actually built to be fast lol just kidding. but seriously not sure why but it seems like all 2-strokes are high maintenance. I actually like it cause it makes me take things apart and actually learn something instead of taking it to a shop and paying to fix it.