Justintoxicated

Cylinders w/ pistons are still for sale. Front plastics still for sale. I also have a modified stock brake lever (To help fit lockup better, basicaly just slightly bent outward and ground down. Also willing to trade PWK33's for Air Stryker 35's + cash. Stainless Grill for sale. Also for sale DOUBLE WIDE FOOTPEGS made by Wallrat. Own a piece of HQ history! Not sure he will extend the warranty to second owner though. Radiator shroud and gas tank cover sold.

I would use high temp thread sealer, just like I put on my Differential drain bolt on my truck... However I have never used thead sealer on my noss head the O-rings seal everythign right up. So much in fact that they smash down and need to be replaced every time. (not all of them just the ones around the studs.).

LOL good read. The front can be a bitch. I can't get my hubs off either. I tried unsuccessfully twice because i wanted to powder coar my hubs. But my problem is that the factory used a whole bottle of red locktight on the allenheads for the brake disk. I got a couple out and the other would rather strip than come lose. Next attempted I heated them up with a touch, the bolts still wanted to strip out rather than come lose. Only option I guess would be to drill them out, and I decided it would not be worth it.

32mm's is the correct size, I don't have that large of an impact either I just picked up the single socket, as there are enough of them on the banshee to invest in the $4 for a nice craftsman socket.

I'll take one as well, as I need an orange flag anyways since I have an "illegal" checkered one. Good thing I have the Fatty Fiberglass whip and not the standard crap ones that bend and flexy and splinter very easy. (like in the photo above)

If you get a stroker crank don't run a spacer plate, get the head work.

See my current pandcake thread it has pics of where to make the adjustment. If you have the stock clutch, that itself could be the problem. The stock clutch lever is a POS. Factory Yamaha clutch for $35 and parking break block off is a great solution. I had alot of play in the stock clutch lever anyways.

I usualy aim for 1.5 inches, but your chain will stretch a little if it is new.

Locktight eats plastic. I used to locktight everything on my RC's and then realized I was stripping the screws that went ino the plastic left and right. Some research led me to the fact that locktight should only be used for metal to metal. So maybe he did mean that it will make them back out? Although I don't remember if they thread into plastic or not. I have not had any problems with my V2's either. I noticed the V3's have some sort of gasket thing that looks like it should be cut off to increase flow. Like it makes the opening smaller or something. I dunno, probably does not matter anyways.

Torqued mine to 66lbs, used the proper tool to hold the Boss in place (Clamped it on, and let it press into the workbench while I cranked the bolt to spec.

Oh Ok. No water in mine yet, but I have not started the banshee. Definately did not come with any water though. Guess I will bring my stocker in case this thing leaks.

Mine does not have a drop of water in it, it is not a liquid filled gauge. Not sure what bulb your talking about. No pics yet, No Motor in the bike...

So I ended up just... 1) Adjusting it. 2) Marking the nut with sharpie, 3) Removed lockup and pressure plate. 4) Untwisted nut on the pandcake piece one revolution. 5) Applied a drop of blue threadlocker 6) Grabbed flat part of bearing with wrench, and tightened the piss out of the nut. 7) Re-installed pressure plate and lockup. 8) Double checked alignment and it seems good. Because I did not use a washer I was able to put the pandcake back in already adjusted and then bolt the pressure plate and lockup back on. If I had used a washer the pandcake would not pull through the center of the pressure plate. I don't know if this is right so I just finger tightened the side case cover threads so as not to waste a gasket. Now just need someone to verify my work so I don't have nuts coming off and bounching around in my clutch case again.

Yea yea, So I line up the position. Then I Screw in the Threaded Piece until it pulls But WTF, there is not enough thread to put the stock washer back on. Also If I hold the screw in place, and tighten the nut, it pulls the threaded piece. Select Yea, - Banshee -> Clutch to view exploded view diagram. http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...13&Action=O Hold #11 and Tighten the nut #13 There is not enough threads to install part #12 So how to hold Piece #10 (The Pandcake) in place. The stock #10 has a hex head that locks in to the center of the pressure plate. This one is round and just spins. Now there IS a flat area on the piece on the long side of 10. So I would assume you can tighten the nut by removing the pressure plate (And Lockup in my case) pull the pandcake out. and grab onto that flat area and tighten it back down. Then re-assemble and it will be locked in place. However I can not remove the pandcake bearing from the pressure plate, if the stock washer is used (Stops the nut from pulling through the outer pressure plate center). So I'm assuming I do not use the washer #12? I have this new basket n such because the nut fell off on the last ride of the season last time and bounced around in my case. Thanks in advance.

acid wash should remove the carbon no? or they do they just not want to hassle with it?

The stuff I have sceen in cans is not quite as ruff as regular bed liner, it might work well for you. My Friend did a Sub box in it and it looked pretty good. Just be sure you mix it up super well first!

If you want loud I would go for the checkers. I'm looking for a cover myself. Thank you for the link. My shee has red frame and white fullbores and I can never find shit. So I still have the stock red and black seat.

I feel your pain, every time I wanted a chrome part it took an extra 1-4 months. problm with PC in the sand is it doe snot hold up quite as well as chrome. As for pipes, same thing. But used pipes are almost impossible to find a chrome shop that will do them. And if you can it's like $400 to chrome a $500 set of used chromed pipes. Better to just get a new set...

Im tempted to get a PS3 myself for a cheap Blue-Ray player. But I hear they are a bit noisy, and honestly they are not really that "cheap" I'll wait it out a bit longer. I have a 37" Westinghouse 1080p hooked to my computer and WOW games do look good in 1080p. If you think bioshock looks good on 360 try it on a PC with a high end graphics card, it looks amazing. Unfortunately my PC does not have a high end card as I'm waiting untill the next refresh in 2 months. My consoles always end up collecting dust eventualy so I'm hoping to skip PS3 and 360... bansh, have you tried adjusting the colors to "warm" and turning off the backlight? Might looks best with the backlight off or set to "1" in the daytime. But ALL LCD's suck at colors anyways, compared to CRT. O-LED should be available next year as well as LCD's with LED backlighting which should help them out a bit and make them last longer as well.

For sure people watching is awesome there.

looks ugly as shit and over 700lb I doubt it is the fastest quad out there... Maybe maximum top speed. I want one!

I don't get it. Why are you upset about your cable service if you got your bid in on time? 3 hours? Tried hard resetting your modem or router?

yea they do, just need to get ahold of trailtech.

I saw alot of cool grab bars. IMS has a nice one and Alba has some decently cheap ones. $25. I picked up the IMS Pegs with kickups for $160 (Although if I told them I only had 140 I think they would have gone for it). I also picked up a nice tricklicks billet brake lever, it is designed to clear the lockup and NOT be pointed downward at an angle. Although with a little grinding and bending we did manage to make my stock one work, this one should be MUCH easier to use. Reg price was $120, I got it for $80! Also took back an old VP racing Gas Jug that split along the seam. it was liek 5 years old but VP racing warrantied it so I took home a new jug for free. Also they were selling them for $20 which is the best deal I have sceen in Cali, and places like RMATV will not even sell those kinds of Jugs to California anymore. So yea there were some good deals. RIS booth was pretty boring, same thing as last year really. Annyone notice how the people in most of the booths were more interested in talking to their friends rather than helping customers? I tried to buy some Sand Tires Unlimted Razorback but after waiting for about 45 min for help I just walked out. Fuck it my time is worth more than a $10 savings.... it was nice to see the thumb throttle/twist throttle device in person. That place also had a nice flag quick release for $10. I didn't see their steering stem though? Seems to me there were not as many rhinos as last year, and I rather enjoy looking at all the buggies I will never be able to afford.

Well I do all kinds of stuff I'm a software developer. My PC will be HTPC (Home Theater). Movies and music, and probably TV soon (waiting on the next gen of HD TV Tuner Cards to come out) This will allow me to turn the PC into A TIVO as well. Gaming PC. Developing code. Browsing banshee HQ etc. Hosting personal website and other server processes. But my home rig I liquid cooled mostly to be quiet and because I ALWAYS overclock. Last PC I built was so loud I had to crankt he volume up on the TV to drown out the noise, which was always followed by complaints from roomate or my landlord late nights. Overclocking tends to mean more powerful fans to increase cooling. Well with liquid you can get some nice inaudiable fans and keep the overclocking high too. For example I bought my CPU for $260 (I dont rememebr exactly) and at the time clocked to perform the same as a $1000 CPU. So The net savings was $600, which I spent about $300 on liquid cooling. But the best part is, the next time I upgrade I don't really need to invest more in liquid cooling, unless I need to change waterblocks and I will do the same thing. The other great part is we get high ambient temps here in Cali, at which case any extra cooling efficiency helps. When I Overclock on air having 120 deg air blowing at the CPU makes it hard to cool, but with liquid it's easy to achive near ambient temps. The loudest part of my system is the Raptor HD. Sure you can buy a quiet dell computer, but by the time I make it do what I need it would not be so quiet anymore. Besides they are hunks of junk inside and they are all the same.. not unique. This PC has lasted for quite some time, and most people would still consider it really fast, however for the hardcore Geeks such as myself, it is technical a dog at this point. Need a quad core intel! But I'm going to stretch it out until I see my CPU actualy get fully utilized lol. This is also another Hobby of mine PC's and technology in general. In other words, why do I need 85 HP for my banshee? Well I don't but it sure is fun to take for a ride! dobboystoy, those spiral coil things actualy prevent the tubing from kinking they add even pressure to the sidewalls, which is what most people use them for. most people prefer to use none for asthetics but sometimes it is a more asthetic and easier way to prevent kinks than a bunch of zipties The loops are usualy closer together like this http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h2o-120-compact.html Purchasing this expensive of a chair was not an easy decision with the SSS tomarrow, but I kept looking at it over and over with my back aching so I bit the bullet. In reality it does make sense for me since I don't have couch etc so it's either bed or chair for me all the time. BTW other than priming the pump the order of the components does not matter much in the computer since the liquid cycles so far it's all about the same temperature anyways no matter on the location in the loop. Generaly speaking.