Nutwood 472

use tread sealer and 10 Mn metric

Yep top cases have to be bored out,I just built one and I run cpi big bore pipes,It's a beast

Yep,just a case plug,its a solid plug and you can order one and use epoxy and tap it back in,hope this helps.

I would take exhaust off and check,dont take the reeds off and risk an airleak and another set of reed gaskets'and since its passing a leak down test,just some advice

I've already picked one up for 34.00 with shipping 40.00,what you are you asking for a set,just curious,cant afford a new set right now,but got lucky on ebay and found a new one,it said piston set for banshee mono-block wiseco piston 100180m 72mm,it would be nice to see a hole set come in,but I'm thinking it's going to be only one piston,lol but not a bad deal

Dont worry,the only timing issue is on the flywheel side and its keyed so you cant mess that up,just take your time and use the right tools and pre-soak the flywheel side of the crank and spray some penatraiting oil to loosen up.and replace seals and inspect tranny bearings,easy to replace right now and forks.

Check to see if the hose is leaking from the head to the crank case or clutch cover and is going down drain hole in the middle of the case and running to the bolts.just an ideal

wanting to know if somebody had one lying around and wanted to sell it,only need one though.

welds keep pulling the metal from the outside plate,like its was some kind of pot metal,so we tried the thick washer welded to the puller and then to the steel rivits,but they would break lose but the weld connecting to the puller to the washer held,the weld to the rivits didnt hold.so when tightening the puller up,it would bend the the washer,then break the welds on the rivits.

I had the banshee flywheel puller that threads into the flywheel,this was one stubburn flywheel,lol it would just pull it self away from the crank,tried two different styles of banshee flywheel puller,it would rip out the threads and break the welds,never seen one so hard to get off,it had a hell of a bang when she decided to come free.

Hey guys,thanks for all the advice,we took a thick washer,that had the same inside diameter as the puller was and out side diameter was big enough to hit all the steal rivets and welded all of them,and used an impact,but it just broke the welds,lol So then we grinded all the rivets down,beat them through the plate to free the magneto from the collar/plate so we could get a three jawed puller inbetween the magneto and the plate and used and 1/2 impact on it and it finaly came off and sounded like a shot gun blast,the flywheel is wasted,but I saved the stator and the crank end,so I'm happy,next time I'll put a little anti-sieze on it,the key wasnt messed up it was brand new and so is the crank,I'm thinking the wiseco crank has a little bigger tapper on it and thats why it was so tight,I've had that flywheel off a dozen times and never had a problem and that was on a stock hot rod crank,but this wiseco was something else,man what a freaky ordeal,well like I said'thanks for the Ideals again guys and when all else fail,grind the rivets and do what I did,you'll save everything but the flywheel,but if your that far in it,it's wasted already.

well guys trying to get fltwheel off to put different tranny gears in,flywheel puller tore up threads in the flywheel,tried heat,but dont want to use alot,affraid of missing up the crank,we tried welding puller to the outside of the flywheel,but its a different type of metal and wont hold,tried hitting with hammer"the puller" and it just pulls out,and tried a 3 jaw puller and still wont budge,never seen one so stubburn,I have a new wiseco 4mil long rod crank and I dont want to tear it up'flywheel is already trashed,so I'll find a good used one somewhere,I just need to get this thing off and trying not to mess up the stator to. So does anybody ever have this problem and have a solution to it,would really aperciate any info, Thanks

yep,porting need changed and you need new domes cut for a sleeper engine,and ther will be a noticable difference and a little more torque.

X2 ON THAT

It all depends on how much money you want to spend,when you move up to the 421 and up,the v-force 3 reeds work good,by them for anything smaller and its a waste of money because your not pushing enough hp to be effective,a adjustable stator plate is a good investment,unless you run a cdi with adustable timing curve,then a plate is not needed,but some builders do use both of them for methenol,alky and race gas,so what you want to spend and how you want to set it up,but a lockup clutch you'll need,if your running a 7 plate basket,i run a 8plate hinson and they told me I'll need one,but I havent burned them up yet,Look at my mods and thats the limit,unless you want to get into straight drag racing.

My cases were already bored out for a 472 t-rex set up I had previously and had nothing but problems with their special head that only fits the t-rex and it was a motor package I bought off ebay and a good deal that went real bad real quick and turns out that I bought their first prototype when they design the t-rex,10 year old cylinders,never been ran,so when I installed them.To my surprise the power vavle jacket the slide operates in had a hair line crack'to much machineing and was filling exhuast up with fluid and theres a bunch more to the story between the shop in west palm beach,fl and dasa racing,both shitty shops in my book and nothing but a money losing freaking nitemare for me ,then hooked up with M&M ATV,Going to send Andy ever thing and cdi,so he'll get it figured out,as far as the 472cc,since I already had big bore pipes and wanting something different and a buddy of mine has a trinity 421 cub and my 472 is a beast comepared to his 421 and I know they are both capable of the same hp and everything,but like I said,just wanted to build something different,and of course you live and learn when you own a banshee,lol

yep,I'm going to send him the domes,pistons and cylinders and see if he wants the cdi to and I'll keep you guys posted on what is going on with it,thanks again

yeah talked to Andy today and going to send him pics of the pistons,but i think I'm just going to ship them to him so he can get a good look at them,he's thinking its getting to much timing in the high rpms and could be having detination problems,but he needs to look at the pistons to see how they are breaking apart on the exhaust side,I'm sure he'll get it straighten out. thanks for the info guys

M&M programed the Dyna,so I dont know what it looks like,and yes I tapperd the ring gap and the inside of top of piston look brownish and the top ring looks like it was beating the top lip up and the bottom lip down squeezing the bottom ring,they told me on the set up I wouldnt have to gap rings and they were at 14 so I gapped them to 18 for being ported and didnt want to take a chance on a ring hanging up and i run big bore pipes cpi and run an pro design oversized radiator and high flow pump and never over heated or srayed out of over flow and plugs didnt show any signs of getting hot.it was ported for agresive trail and a little drag so I wuoldnt think they were fully ported,ported to specs is what it said on invoice and thepistons are 10018m 72.00mm wiseco 4805f is another number on piston top.cant measure squish took it apart already. dont know exhaust duration M&M did the porting,so dont if they widen it or not.but its a super cub so duration for exhuast should be on cp industries web site,197 I think,but I dont know

domes were cut by M&M ATV and every thing else was bought there and ported by M&M ATV I just put it together and tuned it,this is so frustrating,and your a bout the price of pistons,350.00 a set,thanks for the info Mailman

well I let my engine warm up every time I ride,so it does'nt cold sieze and its a long rod crank,and the porting was done by M&M and the clylider coating was done by milenium"miss spelled"and the pistons come from cp industries,so I cant see where the craftmanship would of been a problem'but I'm not a machinist

the piston broke above the top ring

Hey everybody,well went rideing the other day for about 15 min,tore up a couple downed corn fields and cruzed up the road,idled through town"small town" and motor begins loseing some power so we pulled into a buddys yard and it dies and takes about 10 kicks to start,so we toe it back to the shop,I'm running a 472 super cub,with 140 compression,35pwk airstryers 52 pilots and 220 mains on 93 octan,noss cool head and custom cut domes and big bore cpi's,rest pf mods are in the sig,so do compression test"95 on right side and 130 on left side"the tester i used didnt have the spark plug extension in it,so comp is a little off,but everything is brand new,4to5 tanks of gas ran through it already,so took the head off and the right side piston lip above the top exhuast ring broke off inbetween the main exhuast port,it was a little smaller than the exhuast and blew it out,did not hurt the cylinder walls at all"thank God'and the left side started doing the same thing in the same spot,the left piston started bending up the top lip right in the middle of the exhuast port above the top ring the squish was around 46 or 47 cant remember exactly,and the ring gap I set at 18 and the pistons and plugs didnt show signs of overheating at all'the jetting was real rich and pistons were blackened on top and pugs were black, So why are the pistons doing this carp and wondered if anybody had the same problems I'm haveing?

nope,fill it up and ride,lol

No not to bad for a 96,i think stock comp is 118 or 120 some where around there,might get away with just a hone,but have a tech check it out and make sure that the cylinders are not miss shapped for being that old,might not be stock bore either,so have them checked out,hope this helps