blaster2006

it looks very much like the old school LRD pipes for the blasters, just without the tip.. that would be my main guess. here is a pic of the new ones..which they make in black color silencer...

if it runs fine and just does not idle.. its surely not a big deal. like you said... you just give it abit of gas... and it stays alive fine no problem. your problem is mostly in your idle jet ( it basically controls how much you rev it by default, how much RPM it stays at by default). then the slight things in the airscrew and pilot. if you have stock pilot go airscrew 1 turn out you are fine from there. then turn the idle jets all the way in and your good to go..

if not a DG, it looks alot like an LRD silencer, just with the tip removed.

340 or 330.. i wouldnt go with 350

true that, shove the idle screws IN... for more idle.. ( more rpm when you dont rev)

it should have 120-130. and not more than 5psi difference. but if they both have over 110.. ( still 5 psi difference), it does not explain your problems. only if it has like 90-100 etc then its really bad. will it idle well if you keep holind in the throttle at like 1/16 throttle?( bearly pushing it in)

hmm.. my banshee.. still has the TORS boxes on.. and my mechanics banshee doesnt have them... and easily we could tell that his cable is WAY harder to pull than my cable with the tors. so if you removed your TORS maybe that has something to do?

let a moderator do an IP check if you guys really want to find out... see if the IP matches another user

why 2 turns out? stock is 1 and 1/2 turns out, so 2 turns would make it take more air.. he wants more fuel in since hes got K&N filters. and you need bigger main jets if you put K&Ns, check if the fuel petcock is working fine... and put your airscrew at 1 turn out.

stealllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll... does it run as good as it looks? does it have any porting? i bought my 06 shee bone stock for $3700.......

yeh, i took that advice, working on getting richer on the jetting, im going to start with the needle... for whoever asked, im riding at no colder than 65, and it will get hotter sooner and temps gonna be at about 75-90 (keep in mind i live in the middle east(near saudi arabia), its wayy hot here, and sea level).

if you dont mind changing the mains a couple of times.. start with 320.. and move down.. if you mind.. i would guess about 290-300 would be perfect if the filters you have are pods.

i know. although they claim 3-4hp on their website. what im trying to say is i did not feel a response gain

heya, im trying to do the slight tunes to my jetting.. i beleive that the bad problems with response and delay is because im abit on the lean side... im planning on anytime soon raising the needle by a notch, and i would like to know something.. when im at WOT... does the needle make any difference? or at WOT the needle is completely out of the the main jet hole? OR, at WOT, the needle still makes a difference, and still makes it take more gas at WOT?

funny, just installed V-force 3 reeds, the power gain was MUCH less than i expected. something very hard to notice. i could not notice any power gains in any area thats weird. maybe the fact that i bought a used set, but the reed petals looked mint on the mand they had low hours

bore ( in cm) x bore ( in cm) x stroke (in cm) x 0.7854. so in your case: 6.5x6.5x5.4x0.7854=179.18 (for 1 cylinder) so 179.18x2 = 358.37802cc engine, stroker2001 came very close

depending on your cash... if you were on a low budget, just get the stock pipes, stock carbs (no matter what budget), but K&N filter, up to you to decide if you want pods or the 2in1. the pipes are like $5-10 used on ebay.. the stockers... stock carbs you can get for.. uhm about $50-100, and the pods.. with outerwears etc would be $80. so with under $200, your good to go!

hehe, heres a vid of my 916s enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwXP2i8vhME

i wouldnt waste money ditching the T5s and going with CPI's, its not worth it, plus T5s are also designed for ported motors etc.

if i were you at that elevation etc, i would start with 290 mains, raise the needle up ( so move the clip 1 position down, so the clip moves up). and 1 turn or .5 turns out on air screw, stock pilots.

great that i know this, i knew hes an OKAY mechanic . like i said my problem is RESPONSE.. but once it has time to respond its powerful. in my opinion, im thinking ill need to richen the needle and move it up ( move the clip down 1 notch), and the V-force reeds to top it off, will make my response MUCH better hopefully?

heya, i noticed there was a sticky for a chart that shows a chart of bore size and stroke etc to find your displacement, i found t rather confusing, and i thought i might just put this formula up, although im sure most of you already know it. BORE (in cm) X BORE (in cm) X STROKE (in cm) X .7854 = Cylinder cc's For example, for the banshee, its bore size is 64mm, and its stroke is 54mm, which is 6.4cm bore and 5.4 cm stroke (just divide by 10, move the decimal point one time to the left). so its 6.4 X 6.4 X 5.4 X.7854 = 173.71 since its a V twin you multiply that number by 2 so its 173 X 2 = 347.4 cc

exactly the same thing happened to a friend of mine, the kicker seized then it would kick over again, and when it kicks he described it as "you dont feel its trying to start at all anymore when you kick it" the problem was he needed a new bore + pistons, they could not tell exactly what the problem was for but they think water came in from the radiator into the cylinders and blew it up. his bike runs fine now after overbore + pistons.

wait, sorry... to bother, isnt the clutch on the gear shifter side, and the flywheel and stator are by the break pedal? that small place you unscrew is on the front right side, near where the big water hose comes out from the motor (bottom end)? i thought thats the flywheel side?

coming from no experience 100%, but i said, personally, if i had to choose, i would pick a PC over FMF, any day, PERSONALLY. if i was in your situation, not knowing the diff between them... also from saying you have pro circuits sounds better than fmf... just IMO. or in the US they like FMF better im not sure. sorry for misleading. as for the FMF on blaster, i have 101% experience, ive had that fake crap fmf, and then bought Factory 7 pipes, which made the same difference from stock- aftermarket. but atleast the fmf is not as bad as the DG for the blaster. DG = #1 worst for the blaster. so the part where you said you got it on 3 shees and a blaster and love them, your love is wrong then and you probably have not tried other pipes. since you also love it on the blaster xD