blaster2006

is it true also that it also slightly benefits the top end too when you bump up the compression and leave the timing stock? i know that timing AND compression gets way more bottom end and tiny less top, and only cool head gives decent bottom end boost and alight top end aswell. sorry to ask a question on your thread but i hope it benefits both of us

hey guys, another stupid quick question. well, when im racing, ( not so often) around a track, i obviously bog abit on the corners, so what i do, is whilst kpeeing the gas on full, i just pull in the clutch quickly and let go of it ( i beleive this is called "feathering" the clutch), and then it immediatly pulls really hard, i know alot of people do it too, i was just wondering if this is bad for the clutch.. if i do it about 10-20 times per day.. mods are below, ive got a tusk racing clutch kit with HD springs.

well for me, my clamp ons are hitting a screw on my frame.. part of the frame is touching it, and it causes it to bend... the part of the filter becomes bent its anooying... ddnt know they also touch stingers?

with all those mods you were running 200 mains? and yeah stock pilots are 25

first of all, thanks for all the replys guys. and, tidoss76, what do you mean by "try moving your shifter down one notch", meaning by default i move the shift lever more down so its easier to move up when i shift? because my friend suggested i should do that.. if thats also what you are suggesting

what do you mean by cehck arrows on top of case correctly? when my friend installed my tusk racing clutch kit, i dont know exactly what he was trying to do, but what he did was pull in the clutch from the lever, then once it opened up, he would keep holding in the lever, and at the same time push back the plates wit ha screw driver... i asked him what he was doing and all he said was "adjusting"

im willing to pay up to $100~ just to get that damn problem fixed... its really bugging me.. cause every time i drag, i keep doing so well in the start, like im winning by far then i just loose cause it randmly go's to neutral... and i loose the race and then they all think im making excuses for loosing.. ill literaly show you guys a vid racing my m8 on his KX250 2 stroke dirt bike.. where for once i was about to beat him and then it just hits into neutral and revvs ultra loud

ok seriously, this problem is really getting damn annoying and it keeps happening.. just tell me exactly what i need to buy and how to install it or how easy it is to install. ok, when im driving recreationally, i have no problem shifting through all the gears ( i shift slowly), meaning im clutching for 1 sec, shift, then let go of the clutch slowly. when i race ofc im doing it fast so maybe thats the deal. problem that happens in drag racing: when im racing on road drag or sand drag, when i shift from 3rd to 4th, or 4th to 5th gear, it alwasy just gos to neutral and fucks me up in the race.. so im going to race, i luanch from 2nd... shift 3rd ( no problem) then from 3rd to 4th, and sometimes 4th to 5th, it just gos straight into neutral... and starts revving ultra high (cause i assume it will be in gear and i gas it full just after i change gear), then i quickly clutch again and move the shifter up to hit the proper gear that i wanted to shift to... and it finally hits, even some times when it gets into neutral.. and i hit it up again to get into the proper gear (4th or 5th) it still doesnt hit.. i need to do it like 5-6 times then it will get into the gear it should have shifted to in the first place note: sometimes a familiar problem happens when im on neutral ( and not moving), then i move the gear shifter up ( to 2nd) then when i try to launch from 2nd it go's to neutral... without even moving 1 inch... so i end up again revving super loud because im thinking its on 2nd gear and im gonna launch, and then i kick it up 1 more time and it still does not get into 2nd... until i keep kicking it 50,000 times it still wont get into 2nd, i eventually have to just kick it down to 1st and then i have to launch in 1st and then shift to 2nd.. . but my main problem is in the race from 4th-5th it gos to neutral, even though thats impossible cause there is no neutral gear between them. ok now, for when i race with bump roads and turns ( like a mx track), well in this case, as you know there is alot of vibration, and you gotta hold on tight( there are alot of big rocks i go over at high speed so its bumpy), so at this point i dont have much strength in my leg to shit it up.. the main problem i get here is moving the lever up.. it happens also in a high gear like 4th or 5th, tryign to shift up, but i end up in the same gear... because the gear shifter wont move - its too hard to push up sometimes.. and it only happens from 4th to 5th.. or it might be 3rd to 4th.. where from that point the shifter becomes way harder to move than it was from 2nd to 3rd lets say... and i dont have that stength in such a bumpy place, or the control.. overall: sorry if you found my explanations dumb or stupid... its the best i can do to describe. if someone can tell me what i need to buy to stop all these ridiculous problems, it would be helpful.. i heard ppl talking about somethign called shift shaft , shift star... whatever those are if i need those, jsut tell me what i need to buy, thanks. if you could link it too from a good site like F.A.S.T too would be great.

yeah... and if i were to buy a new clutch kit id go with the LIGHT duty springs... i got heavy duty and seriously its... HARD to pull.. im buffer on my left hand than i am on my right now...

hey ive got a small question...a good friend of mine, told me, when you get an adjustable timing plate and advance the timing.. that it puts more "pressure" on the pistons and causes it to wear faster, its like adding a coolhead, when you do that it like adds compression thus it lets the pistons wear out quicker. he told me because whe nyou advance the timing, it gives spark before the piston reaches the end of its stroke, so it forces it to go back down or something like that before it finishes its stroke ( or should i say before it gets to its highest point) and thus it puts more pressure on the cylinders. i would like to know this, because i just want my bike to be reliable and long lasting, the reason why im not getting a coolhead with higher comp domes is also for that reason: i want the pistons to last longer, and its really hard to get bore /hone job here where i live so yeah. thats kinda why. thanks.

i was kinda misunderstood..., i meant FUEL consumption wise running 300 mains on 2 carbs is like 600 mains on a single carb, FUEL consumption wise.. or was i wrong? sorry if so, thats what i thought.. but now come to think of it yeah.. you dont add them up my bad sorry.. just said some random shit there without thinking..

not gonna say much... cause i dont know what to say.. seems too big to me.. i guess when they say each engine is different.. it really means something lol. that must really drink your fuel.. im dying here running 300 mains.. adds up to 600 mains since its 2 carbs.. which is like 5 times more than an average 4 stroke.

the advice im going to give you is based on what my friend has on his 38mm mikuni flatsides for his 421 cub with a dune port. 340 mains 27.5 pilots , air screw 1 1/12 turns out needle at 3rd or 4th clip. that is a good starting point ( it should me), but other people should have more accurate advice than me

atm ive got 280s... 290s and 300s... the 290s one is fine other is broken, rest are fine.. ofc.. so ill try the 300s but imo its too rich... ill try the 300s though abnd see how it go.s

i was rejeeting my shee from 280 mains to 290s.. i put the first 290 in, then when i was doing the second one, i was tightening it in at an agle, and it cut off.. and the other threads stayed inside the carb... i then finally managed to take those out.. and im left with the hex jet with like 2 tiny threads on it left.. and managed to put it on.. it tightened after like 1 or 1.2 a turn.. then tightened it by a wrench abit. although i put it on without a washer.. and with the small threads left on it. it ran fine, and im planning to keep the 290s.. is it fine like that? withut the wahser on and with little threads on the jet?

so ur saying that in that vid of the quad which looks jsut like yours...same color....wheelies the same way and thne crashes later same color etc isnt you?

wow... great to hear xD.. i always thought if someone would do that one.. 2 pistons and flames.. good to know that your gonna do it.. hope it turns out to be sick!

haha lokisbuddy. always wanted to ask u something. that avatar seems VERY familiar, looks like a video i saw on youtube of a kid trying to wheelie with his legs on the handle bar then crashes and falls off the quad. but i saw you with that avatar before you bought your banshee.. when you just made the account on this sight.. who is that on that banshee then?

i have had literally the exact same problem as you if this is your problem: you go slow lets say on first gear.. ( very slow), then randomly quickly gas it full and then quickly let go.. and then it makes a deep bog noise. if thats your case, and you are running 25 pilots and 1.5 turns out on airscrew.. thats your problem. i also have same mods as you.. and when i turned my airscrew in.. it became SO much better.. eventually i got it to only 1/2 a turn out. try turning it in 3/4 in or atleast 1/2 turn more in. see if it makes it better, if so, go more deep in. put back your old main and clip if it was running better at top. your low end thing is your AIR SCREW guarantee.. as much as i dont know shit im sure about this one.. i had the same problem.. tighten that air screw alot

yeah no pics

hey, friend of mine just got his cubs, dune ported, from jeff... im posting this for him as i dont know the answer to his question and he doesnt have much time so im posting it.. anyway, before the cubs.. he had stock cylinders with some random porting done from a mechanic shop near by, he had 36mm mikuni flatsides.. and he has a 4mm stroker.. his mains were 330s ( that being veryyyyy slightly rich). when he had that the pull was perfect everywhere, had loads of torque.. meaning on 6th gear if you went slow and then gased it full it would pull immediately. he just got his cubs ( already set up for 4mm stroker) and the pistons, and the big bore domes.. 22cc... he put the cubs on.. and then jetted 1 size up on his 36mm carbs.. went to 340s, and the mehcanic who put the cubs also added premix but he said it was a very lean mixture.. he said he made it with alot of oil as its better for the pistons when new so its not dry.. so he put a LEAN mixture.. im guessing like less than 20:1, when he fired it up.. let it warm 4 mins.. he rode it and said it wasnt pulling properly.. like on 6th if he was going and not much rpm, then he pushed it full it would like take alot of time to pull etc etc. he then got new gas, and mixed it with klotz super tehcniplate.. at 32:1... and then at the same time put 350 mains ( he did not try with new gas and the 340 mains). and he said it pulled much better etc, but it could get better. so hes thinking to go with 360 mains.. or 370s.. but hes at sea level and hot temps..thats basically going up 3-4 sizes just from cubs.. he had the 4mm stroker and same carbs.. just the pistons and juggs changed.. dome cc is also same (22) is it normal to jump up? im thinking the better difference he felt was from the gas... and maybe it would have been better with the 340 mains and just adding new gas.. but instead he did 350 mains and new gas and it was better.. so opinions would be nice.. and what you guys with cubs.. your jetting... at what its at..

heya, im looking for someone to make me a custom grill. this one is a good idea imo so it will sell to others too. i see quite a few good ones on ebay.. but all of the OKAY ones cannot ship international. and the ones that are done by JD customs are sick but not my type.. so if someone.. most probably JD customs.. since he does a great job.. do me this custom grill. if you cant tell from my really really shitty picture.. its 2 pistons crossing each other ( with the rods) and the red lines are fire ( but if you could make the fire in better detail) like the other grills with fire..

for me and all my friends... we use shee when typing.. and banshee when speaking..

you lucky people back at the US... 1200 is free basically.. and it has pipes meh.

from what everyone was telling me on the other post i had about pistons. Wiseco seems to be the best, other than that .. ive seen alot on ebay pistons called "namura" it looks to be a japanese brand.. and they claim +5hp only from the pistons