The clutch ball and rod maybe welded together, common problem due to being set up to tight.. What sucks is if this is the problem you may have to take the motor off and flip it up side down and split the cases to get the rod or ball out.. Then go buy new rod/ball for like 8 bucks..
Ok I guess I'm the odd ball. I like the 125 2stroke hands down even tho they may not have the better resale value... I might be bias but if you stroke it more the twice your playing with it :biggrin:
Your list looks pretty good. I would recommend some inframe CPI's or maybe shearer's since going with stock cylinders. You also may want to look into getting an override. Jmo. I also believe you don't always have to cub in order to compete. I've seen some pretty fast stockers, granted you could of paid for some cubs for the money..
I would use a red scotch brite pad to scuff it up for primer. Then sand primer with some 220-320. Fix the cuts/scratches with glaze filler, prime again. Finish sand primer with 320-400 and seal it and shoot it.. jmo
A 4mill will most likely have 115 rods. so all you need is long rod pistons, cut the domes/or add a spacer that I don't recommend, then ask your builder who ported your cylinders and see if you can raise the exhaust 2mm or not..
I thought about it before and thought it would look great, but it would just be harder to keep clean, also if you like chrome as much as I do, you will need a lot of it for it to show up good on white.. Jmo..
For dune riding I would stick with the stockers and CPI's since you already have them, if your going to do more dragging you may want to go with a cub.. I believe 35mm carbs work well on both, unless you run alky on the cub and then you'll need some 39's.. Jmo..
With only a 4 over swingarm I would stick with the 10 paddles bc its going to wheelie, even if it only pulled 80hp, which a stock cub will and maybe go back to stock gearing 14-41..
I agree, if you drag race all the time get the override.. I'm so use to it now I usually put them in my dune bikes, but every bike seems different.. I've rode bikes with no override that shifted great too.. And the lockout everyone has there opinion on if it has 80hp or over 100 you only need it, and some just go with the looks cause they look good..
Depends on what kind of riding you, looking at your mods you seem to have pretty good setup for trail riding.. The cheapest mod you may go with smaller domes to lower the compression and put it on race gas, depending on what it is now..
.80 over, properly setup shouldn't have overheating problems.. The billet impellers are junk bc the ones with a aluminum shaft wear out and stop working... Also, i don't believe engine ice really works.. Jmo
To me they are ALL Banshee's, just classified as a Dune Banshee, Drag Banshee, and Stock Banshee's, etc.. jmo :biggrin: Yea and STOP putting Rapturd plastics on them, those i wouldnt call a banshee..
a 116 is pretty common, but may need to drop it to around a 114 and then mess with the power jets, for what you have. Also may need to lower the pilet to around 55.. Jmo, every bikes different..
You may want to spend the extra money on some good paddles, that is where some people mess up bc they didn't spend the money on a good set of sl haulers, etc.. and got beat do to tire spin.. Jeff can tell you about what size you will need..
If I were you I would called direct drive or any builder (F.A.S.T., K&t, A&S, etc) to ask what kind of epoxy they use on cases or the lockouts when they were mostly built out of stock clutch covers..
No I wouldn't rejet for breakin. I've broke them both ways and never had a problem unless it was going to happen. 1) get on it and ride the crap out of it 2) or start it up and let it warm up and cool down a couple times to let the rings set in, then next time out just don't give it hell , after that your should be fine.. Your pic didn't work; by the way wiseco makes vitos pistons I believe, just different specs..