BUILDER

This may sound kind of silly but it sounds like to me your rear axle bearings are out and trying to lock up. Hold the back end up and see how the axle spins.

Just add a twist throttle. i have lots of trouble with my hands and a twist throttle made it much better for me.

I will try and post some pics of the bead breaker i built later today. If you can weld at all it is easy to build and kind of fun to do your own. The one i built work really well and it light i just throw it in my toy hauler every time we head out.

I agree. I have never seen a bike that is working properly spit oil out. If you banshee is spitting oil out then you have a problem.

Agreed same thing just in differnt terms. Glad we can be friends again. LOL

You may be right i have just always been told that in the NGK plugs the lower the number the hotter the spark. NGK will tell you if you run to lower of a number you will burn holes in your pistons because the spark is to hot. LOL i am just going off of research i would not be the first time i was wrong.

By using a torque wrench it ensurse you dont break the head off the bolts and end up trying to get out a bunch of broken bolts and it also makes sure they are tight enough so they dont come loose with all the viberation going on.

I agree go buy a torque wrench you will save yourself a lot of headaches if you do!

With NGK plugs the lower the number the hotter the spark a B8 is a hotter plug than a B9. A B8 is what you should have in the bike. A little more info you say is seems low? Have you checked the compression on the cylinders?

I am not sure what a 2.8 pilot jet is i have never seen that on a pilot maybe someone esle can tell you what that is. You should have a 27.5 pilot jet to start out and work from there. Putting a bigger main jet in will not help your starting problem your pilot is were your starting problem is.

If it starts easier when it is warm you have a lean condition for sure. Not to disagree with the guy before me but i have seen some really odd problem with the uverride box on these things. If it is still plugged in i would unplug it just because you dont want it in the system. In the procces of taking the carbs from your buddies bike to yours you may have got some crap in the pilot jets and you may need to clean you carbs out good. If the pilot jets are plugged they will not start well at all.

If you are running fuel out you are flooding it for sure. I run 110 in my 4 mill and it normally takes me a year or 2 to go through a drum of fuel and i have no trouble with it at all. You need to pull your carbs back off and fix your float problem

Just checking have you unplugged the throttle override box on the frame? I know you said the wires were cut to the TORS but if you have not unplugged the box also some times that will do wiered things. I would also wonder if some one has put smaller pilot jets in those carb. Does it start easier once you have got it started and warmed up?

Did you check to see if the throttle slides were in the right way? Make sure they are in the carbs so when you look at them from the back of the carbs that the rounded part of the slide is facing towards the back. One other question i was reading through your posting and to make sure are you saying it runs good once you get it reved up?

Not to rip on the guy posting before me but you should never just throw jets at your bike you should always check and see if they are right. With a in box K&N and stock carbs 290 to 310 is normally were you want to be running it fat will not make you bike preform any better it will run its best when the jet is right were it should be. Always do a plug check to get your jetting to the right place.

I have seen the similar problem a couple of times. Check and see if you got the slides put back in the correct side. I have seen a few people take off the carbs and when they put them back on the switched the slides and that will make them hard to start and they run like crap on the bottom. With FMF pipes and a in box k&n you should be running around a 290 to 300 main jet.