studroes

alright i just bought a brand new mxr6 rear holeshot tire from the local shop for $20 cuz they said they could never find a match for it. the size is 18x11x9 and i measured everything and the measurements are all right but i cant seem to find a match for it either..checked ebay and rocky mountain atv and some other places and cant seem to find one. has anyone heard of this size tire or know where i could get one?

what is the power difference gonna be between a 7mil and a 10mil? is a stock cylinder 7mil gonna be able to beat a 4mil cub with the same mods or is is the cub the way to go on this one?

alright im getting some parts around to start a new engine build. i do mostly road riding with some ocassional drag racing. the engine now is a drag ported 4mil with boost ports and all the other goodies but im riding with 4mil cubs and this engine isnt cutting it anymore. is it possible to use the same cylinders i got now with possibly a 7mil? is that just a bad idea for the type of riding im doing? and also, what type of clutch or tranny mods would i be looking at with this type of engine? just exploring my options so any comments would be great

ive adjusted and readjusted everything. seems to be more of a problem then just adjustment.

alright first question..the wheeler shifts from nuetral into first fine and i can hold in the clutch and it will idle good but if i bring the rpms up to about midrange the wheeler wants to creep ahead. how do i fix that so it doesnt move with the clutch in at higher rpms? the next question is..ive been doing some drag racing and not been having much luck, i can only launch in first because of the clutch issue but i cant hardly get it to shift out of first with much of a load on it. i have to let the engine die down a quite a bit before it will go into second and that is using the clutch and everything and the same problem happens between 2nd and 3rd but after that its normal. this is only in dirt when the tires are spinning. going down the road it shifts fine through all the gears. engine is a pretty built 4mil so its making decent power but the clutch and tranny is all stock with the exception of HD springs and clucth plates(needed to use all 6 HD springs or it would slip the clutch). any suggestions and some prices on parts would be great.

are you set on keeping your t'5s? imo if you're gonna build a 4mil motor with carbs and all the other goodies its gonna have more than enough power to handle more of a topend pipe (cpi's, shearers, etc.) even if your just trail riding you'll be able to get the power out of it that you want by setting up your gearing and still be able to get alot more topend out of it.

well like i said i dont know much about the 2 into 1 setups but mine handles the dual 38s pretty good so im sure you'll be fine with a single one. with mine i had to get a special cable from dennis packard (stock cable wouldnt work with lectrons that big) not sure how a single cable will be but if you find its not gonna work just give him a call and he'll get ya up and runnin and even give you a very close guess on where you should set you're metering rod for length.

yeah thats pretty much what it means..the bigger the carb is the more air its gonna let through which it turn allows you to add more fuel. more air and fuel into the engine equals more HP. not sure how that carb will work for a single carb setup for size wise but i run dual 38 lectrons on my 4mil and they need to have alot of porting to allow for how big they are. once you get the lectron tuned in you'll love it cuz you'll probably never have to touch it again. i can ride mine from 30 degrees to 90 degrees and never have to touch a single thing on the carbs or worry about the engine going.

stock cylinder 4mil is a good engine for most any kind of riding but id say that concentrating on your basics is a good way to build any machine. intake, exhaust and porting are the 3 main things that make up an engine imo. get a nice aggresive port job for your stock cylinders and some bigger carbs to feed it and throw a set of cpi's on it. good drag machine and still very trail rideable. just my 2 cents lol

brillo pad with hot water

i did alot of plug checks when i got the engine all together and running and they always came out with the nice brown color on them and as far as running lean i dont think that is an issue because if it was i think it would have caused a major problem alot sooner cuz the wheeler has been ridin and held wide open alot! the heads show no signs of detonation and never had a problem with plugs backing out. this may be a dumb question but when i let off from a wide open run is it best to let right off and pull the clutch in or keep giving it a little throttle so the engine keeps getting fuel or whats the best way to do it?

the squish is right where it should be. the engine is a 4mil with stroker domes, everything was calculated and cut by a professional builder. the head is a D&D head, dont know if many people know about them but it is a 2 piece type head that bolt down seperate onto each cylinder so as far as different deck heights that wouldnt be the problem cuz each side seals down itself. domes and compression are set to runpump gas so i dont run anything less than 93 oct. i ride basically roads only so its alot of wide open riding and both times it happened were when i was letting off from holding it at WOT for probably between 1/2 a mile to a mile. not too long but certainly long enough for everything to really heat up. when i put in the new orings they were in the grooves good and the head was torqued and re torqued.

went riding this weekend and i blew an oring on the dome in my coolhead. this is the second time its happened to me..happened last weekend too. it only happens after ive been riding for awhile and both times its happened right after i let off from holding it wide open for a straight aways. any idea of why this is happening?

stock carbs will be fine. i take it you're just running a spacer plate? once you do get it ported and invest in a coolhead with stroker domes bigger carbs will really help feed the engine and really increase your power!

yeah it came with all the bolts, kinda a neat setup. im gonna need new orings for this hopefully i can get some. the domes are 19cc

alright thanks. and yes it does have domes. im gonna hang on to it and give it a try tho. thanks anyways

i bought a trinity stage IV coolhead for a spare engine. just wondered if they need longer stud bolts or if the stock ones on the cylinders will work?

this is barry, the guy you got the cylinders from. the kid i got them from told me it was a vito's kit if that helps at all. good luck

imo a 4mil needs bigger carbs to really shine. i ran mine with stockers for a bit but could tell it was being held back. put a set of 38mm lectrons on and it was an all together different machine. power came on at the same time as with stock carbs but gave it an incredible mid-topend gain. the only thing with carbs that big is that you need pretty extensive porting. my drag ported cylinders with boost ports handle the carbs great. the next problem you're gonna face with all the extra power is keeping your clutch from slipping..good problem to have i guess :biggrin:

if you had an antifreeze leak then chances are pretty good that the base of your motor filled up with coolant. a 2 stroke wont run if there is any liquid in the crank case. here's what i would do, turn off your gas and kill switch or key, hold the throttle wide open and just kick it over a bunch of times. pull your plugs out too, this will make it kick over alot easier. by doing that it will force all the antifreeze or liquid out of the base of your motor. you could pull your pipes off too so they dont fill up with coolant. i just recently had to replace the o-rings on my coolhead and had to go through all that too cuz it filled my engine right full of coolant. good luck, hope it works out for you.

for tight trails and woods riding shearers def arent the pipe you want but for wide open riding, dragging, and hillshooting like like 225guy says he does he would love the shearers. they pull alot harder and longer.

i went from fmf fatty's to shearers on my 4mil and it was worth every cent i paid for them! at first its hard to tell how much power they have cuz you're so used to shifting really fast and the shearers pull to no end so you get alot more power and SPEED out of each gear. the only downfall to them is that the silencers come through right where the airbox is so you can only run clamp on filters. as far as the vito's pipes im not sure but give them a try, you'll love them!

X2! a well ported engine with shearers will outrun any other pipe...can still trail ride with the shearers, not the greatest lowend power but on the topend your engine will rev a grand more than the cpi's so if you're lookin for all out power in dragging thats the best choice

would worn cushions on my old basket cause the clutch to slip like it does?

look in the back sides of the carbs on the airbox or filter side and push the throttle a little bit and make sure the the slides are pulling up evenly. possibly something got put back together a little different and the carbs may be out of sync.