studroes

ok i finished up a 4mil build about a month ago, got it all together with alot of the goodies. ran it for awhile and starting to really open it up now. my problem is that my clutch slips. not terrible but you can tell it slips in the higher gears. when i put the engine back together i had all new clutch plates and im using 6 hd springs. now this may sound weird but when the engine isnt up to normal running temp the clutch will slip like crazy and once it gets to the powerband it just revs out but the clutch slips the whole time..once it warms up to nowmal temp its not near as bad but still to the point of where i need to change something. also, there was a little play in the clutch when i was putting it all back together. i could spin the clutch basket a good 1/2" either way before there would be tension on it. is this a problem that could be a factor and if so what do i need to do to fix it? basically what im trying to do is everything i can before i give in and buy a lockout.

from what i've heard the big bore sleeves in stock cylinders will run warmer but whether or not its much to worry about im not sure. do some research and ask around on some pricing. i think when you figure up all the time and machine labor, plus the cost of the kit itself you will be farther ahead to go with a cub, especially if you're looking for power which every banshee owner is! lol

definately start out by taking your cylinders to a builder and seeing if they can be ported for a 4mil. if they can then i would say go with that and run stroker domes. if not then you can use a spacer plate($20 on ebay) it wont let the 4mil reach its full potential as domes but its a start until you can get cylinders to be ported for a 4mil.

anyone use graydon proline pipes? what type of a pipe are they and what are they comparable to?

yeah some pics would be great. we have a local pipe shop up here in NY that does alot of custom stuff like that so if i had some pics to go by im sure they could use them to figure something out.

does anyone know if there are any silencers that can be used on shearer inframes? i dont want to switch to another set of pipes but i do want to run an airbox and with the shearers there is no way of the airbox even being close to working.

it could be possible that your cylinders were wore some too..a worn sleeve is the same as a worn piston when it comes to too much play inside the cylinder. the best way to go about that would be to buy one size bigger pistons and pay the extra money and have a machinest bore your cylinders to match.

right on man! im certainly not an expert on banshee's but if i have any knowledge or experience with a topic that comes up ill give my opinion. and as far as your vito's piston breaking..yes the most likely casue of that is that the bore and piston size weren't what they needed to be. a machinest needs the actual pistons that are gonna be run in the engine in order to bore the cylinder to the exact size needed. from my experiences i think that if an engine is put together properly with the new and correct parts and the setup is right for the engine and proper maintenance is taken then you'll have good luck with it.

X2, works perfect and dont cost a cent :biggrin:

the rod and all the bearings are tight. i started looking at the piston a little more this morning and i found what went wrong but my question is why? the little metal dowel in the ring groove just came out and now its melted in the top of the piston. its clear thats what caused it but what would cause that dowel to just come loose?

alright i took the left side cylinder off and that side was bad. the top of the piston looks like someone went to it with a hammer and chisel and the dome is the same way, no harm to the cylinder tho just the top of the piston and the head. i have shearers on it so i hafta run just clamp on filters. my guess of what cause it is water. i washed it that morning with the pressure washer. it was about ten hours later until i rode it but do you guys think water could have in there somehow that long and did that kinda damage to it? and also..i had it running for about 5 minutes before this happened and i wasnt riding it very hard when it happened either.

ok i took the banshee out today for a little ride, started it and let it warm up for a couple mins then started ridin. took it pretty easy for a few mins and then i gave it a little more throttle (halfway through the powerband) and let off and it started making a loud ticking noise and it sounded like it was coming from the left side of the engine. i shut it off right away. turned it over by hand a few times and it would catch every few times but after a couple jerks on the kicker it would turn over a few times again. i let it sit for about two hours and went back to it and started it up. it started first kick just like normal and idled normal and when i gave it some throttle it sounded just like it always does but it was still making the ticking noise. i didnt ride it and only had it running for about 20 seconds but i dont know what the noise is coming from?? if anyone has any input or ideas of where to start please let me know. thanks!

$300 is real cheap for those pipes. they might be too much for a non ported engine but hang on to them if/when you add some more hp cuz they are an awesome topend pipe and would still make a decent trail pipe with the proper setup.

X2 on the port job..since you're taking the head off anyways you might just as well pull the cylinders and get them ported. its a good bang for your buck!

im gonna say go with the duneable overide. since you have the cases apart already you might better do everything right inside there the first time so you dont hafta go back later and split your cases again. then when you get some money saved up a lockout is a quick and easy mod to do.

thanks guys. as far as this particular clutch itself, does anyone have experience with it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...sQ5fAccessories just wondered if anyone has used this and what they think of it.

im going through the same problem with mine. just did a 4mil build myself but have a quite a few more go fast parts and clutch slipped right away. bought an all new clutch kit with hd springs (used all six) and it worked good for about two rides now its starting to slip. id try the hd springs and if that dont work then next is gonna be a lockout. i got one coming so hopefully that will do the trick!

the engine is a 4mil with boost ports. i dont do much trail riding..mostly gravel and paved roads so i want something thats gonna grip but still not wear off in a couple rides. occasionally i will ride some trails here and there but i can just switch back to the 20's so im not too worried about ground clearance. my gearing right now is 15 38 and it pulls pretty good right up through 6th but to me it just feels like 5th and 6th take a long time to rev out. would some 18's and maybe a 16 or 17 tooth in the front even it out pretty good?

ok right now im using 20in. tires and what im wondering is would i be better off getting smaller tires like 18's and give it more gearing? so basically my question is what will get me up to speed better..bigger tires and less gearing or smaller tires and more gearing?

is the basket grooved so bad that there is no clutch movement? i've seen this done before and it works to a certain extent. take a file and file down the grooves so there is a flat surface on the fingers on the basket. never done it but have seen it work..beats buying a whole new basket right away.

i live right outside of lowville, i got some nice fmf fattys with silencers id like to get rid of. you interested?

ok i started to use a wire wheel in my drill to take the paint off and i did a strip about 4 inches long and still found no #'s. they are on the lowest bar on the frame right? i did some between the left footpeg and the down bar where the motor mounts bolt on and then some between the down bar and the lower a-arm mount and found nothing. any clues or suggestions?

are you asking about putting them on a stock engine or a wheeler with the mods you listed? (4mil, drag port, etc.) shearers are a topend drag pipe and will really work well with drag ported cylinders but in my opinion they are gonna be too much for a stock motor and you wont let them really reach their potential.

im from right in your area around lowville and watertown. are you dead set on getting the t5's? i had a nice set of fmf fatty's with D&D silencers i want to get rid of. PM me if you're interested.