studroes

alrighty thanks guys

X2 on the case porting. once your bottom end is back together thats not something that you are just gonna wanna pull out and take apart in a day to try and get more power out of it. spend the extra money and get it done right and you'll be alot farther ahead with your build and much more satisfied.

is there a seperate plate or are the #'s grooved right in the frame on all banshees?

ok when i got my banshee last summer the guy didnt have any paperwork with it and i need to have the vin # to register it. my question is where is it located? the frame is painted so i dont wanna go rubbing off paint until i know for sure where its gonna be

shearers are an all out top end pipe and would compliment your porting very well. im running them on my 4mil and love the power. dont know much about the t5s but can say that shearers are an awesome topend pipe and still have enough power in the low to mid range to get you up to speed.

ive used a rebuild kit from rmatv twice now, they are the same as that and im not wasting my money anymore..the first one lasted me about an hour and the second was lasted less than that

when domes are milled out for a stroker does it change the actual dome size in anyway? ie: when regular 20cc domes are milled out does it bring the dome size to say 19 or 18cc for example?

just by looking at them some seem to not have a ring in them at all. is that true or do they all have them?

one quick question about lectron carbs. im seeing that some carbs have the purple ring on the bowl and others dont. what is the difference in that?

who is this? i seen one of your other posts and said you had D&D port your cylinders. they got mine down there right now..scott is doing so pretty good stuff with them and i cant wait to get everything back together =)

maybe they used to do things different but as of a few years ago thats how they did it. the main welder and mechanic would bring in each new sled individually and design single and twin pipes for them out of the leftover scraps from junk pipes and then they would send the pipes to a company in cali. (not sure what the company was called) and they would mold boxes full of shells and send them back to D&D and it was basically just an assembly line from there. one person would tack the halves together, the next would tig them, and then they had a seperate booth for finishing whether it was painting and baking them or nickel plating.

i used to work at the pipe shop at D&D and i know from working there that they aren't putting someone else's pipes on their machines. they fabricate all their pipes for every machine right from scratch and send their design out to get all duplicates made. the shells come back to them shop in halves and they hafta be tacked and welded together and they do all the finishing for their pipes right in house. they are not using anyone elses design or materials.

like i said, i dont know much about their banshee pipes. they started to get into wheelers more a few years ago but up here the market for snowmobile parts more than triples the wheelers so they lost interest in them. as far as banshee pipes go, im sure they are better than stock as is anything but their mechanics dont even run them on their wheelers so i would take that as a sign that there are much better pipes out there.

im only a few miles from D&D here in new york. i cant say much about there banshee pipes cuz nobody around here even run them. as far as pipes go tho they make the best snowmobile pipes that money can buy so judging by that i would say they are a decent pipe. go to their website.. ddracing.com. and you can read up a bit on them or call one of their mechanics and they would definately be able to tell you. if you go that route and call them ask for Scott. he is the main guy there and he'll tell you anything you need to know

alright i have shearers on my wheeler right now and i know that you have to run clamp on filters with them which i do. my question is, has anyone found a good way to mount the airbox back on and make it functional? i ride mostly asphalt and gravel roads so the pods work fine for that but i occasionally trail ride with either mud or dust and im just wondering if its worth it to try and rig the airbox up for those kinda rides or not.

im from right here in lowville too and im having the mechanic at D&D port the cylinders for my 4mil. cant wait to get it back together and try it out!!

alright well i did one of the stock cages tonight and i thought it turned out pretty good by looks..whether or not they would work on a running wheeler is another thing lol but as far as smooth edges, how smooth do the edges and angles hafta be? is there any difference in how the engine runs and performs?

alright this topic was covered a while back but i cant seemed to find it anymore. im getting some vf3's for my banshee so i wanna fiddle around with my stock reed cages. could i get some pics of some ported cages and maybe some advice on what works best??

some strokers have different rod lengths which reguire different pistons. a hotrods crank comes with 115mm rods which require 795 series pistons to accomidate for the longrod where as a vito's stroker uses stoke 110mm rods which will use any standard banshee piston. performance wise in my opinion could go either way but i prefer the stoke rod crank just because you can get .100 over standard banshee pistons where as the 795 series only goes up to .080 over so basically you can get a little more cylinder life out of a stoke rod crank. you can use a spacer plate on the bottom of your cylinders but the best way is gonna be to get some special cut stroker domes. i would say 21-22cc domes will be safe to run pump gas. cylinders ported to match the 4mil and maybe a few small things along the way..pretty expensive build but very effective. good luck!!

x2 call up dennis packard. i got mine from him. called him up he took my address and i got the cable 4 days later. $50 bucks for a new cable and its definately worth it over messin around with the stock cable

does $475 for all that work sound reasonable or pricy to you guys? the guy doing it is a buddy of mine so he is doing it all at cost at D&D. their porting is quite expensive to add the boost ports and with the domes and case porting i know he is giving me a good deal but how does that sound when compared to other builders prices?

anyone have any experience with boost ported cylinders? how do they perform powerwise and is it worth the extra money to get it done?

i run the vitos 4mil crank w/ stock rods and ive never had any problems with it. i built the engine in the spring of last year and it has alot of hours and hard ride time on it and i havent had to touch the engine. people are gonna recommened the longrod over stock rods on a 4mil and my local builder says the longrod will give you a little more torque down low but ive been %100 satisfied with mine. i go from trails to wide open roads to drags to sand and it hasnt let me down yet. with the money you'd save with not buying a longrod stroker you could buy some other good mods to go along with the stroker IMO

it is going to port my cylinders to match for a 4mil, cut my domes, add boost ports to the cylinders, and do the case porting for $475 bucks. and he said he does use the epoxy when he ports his cases and he uses the best stuff he can and claims its close to $100 for the epoxy. that sounds expensive but he said its the best you can buy and if its gonna be stronger than you cant put a price on reliability. to me that sounds cheap comparing prices with other builders. what do you guys think? and as for the dog and peanut butter..give it a shot lol:)

a stroker crank is offset 2mm more than a stoke crank which means at TDC(top dead center) the piston is 2mm higher that stoke and at BDC(bottom dead center) the piston is 2mm lower than stoke which adds a total of 4mm to you stroke. a long rod stroker requires 795 series pistons to compensate for the added 5mm of rod length. a stoke rod stroker will just use a traditional banshee piston. since the stroke is more the ports in your cylinders have to be opened up more. in basic terms strokers add more displacement to your engine, which means more horsepower, and are stronger and much more reliable IMO.