Wiz

2001 once AGAIN i appologise I was just trying to be a smartass and rib you a little, you seem like you know enough about banshees from what I read, it was not meant to bash you.... Fire how many times have you used JB weld to fill in the case? Have you ever had it come off? I would be a little scared that it could come off and do some serious dammage just wondering? anybody ever seen filler of any type come off in this situation? Before: before I finnish shaping around the lube holes

I too am intrested in am override don't know much about them, but I feel for my style of ridding it would not work? Ride only in the sand a little racing but we play in the trees alot in and out of the throttle on and off the clutch really hard on trannys, chains and sprockets, not to mention 100hp with a lockout. I too am having trouble shifting under a load when racing typicaly into 3rd or 4th. I have modded my shift drum, but still running stock star and everything else. I have grenaded 2nd gear 3 times allready.... all of the info on this thread has been very informative though...thanks!!

Actually the cubs start at 64mm bore sizes they make stuff in 64mm stock stroke and 64mm with 4mil stroke as well as 68mm stock stroke...

all of those ideas are cool....and mad props to the light in the grab bar, that is the custom stuff that highlights a nice bike....well done...

sorry did not mean to step on toes, was just giving 2001 a hard time.....I thought his post was pretty strait forward considering the first sentece says "I'm gonna port my case soon I'd like to see some pics of ported case I made a search and didn't find any... " thought that was pretty clear....

blowit, that post is on the money man.....you are correct the problems I have had with o-rings is not so much the o-rings but the pro-design head, I was running alot of compression and it was lifting the domes on the exhaust side and blowing them out once even taking a dome lip out with it. We machined the center section of the head down to get a better clamp but I still never trusted it so I changed heads, the guy that does my machine work (the best in the busniess) told me that he has seen many of these problems with the PD head and that years ago they were making billet inserts for the head that went on the front of the dome to give them more support also.

lots of good sellers on ebay also usually best prices but be sure you know what you need...

www.modquad.com Mike builds good arms available chrome, powdered or plain. Good prices also we have alot of them on our bikes. This one is a +6 with a billet carrier on one of our bikes.

make sure you check the upper frame hoop where the stem mouts, that is prone to bending and cracking it is hard to measure to get a feel of it is bent, you can make sure the tank is lined up with the mounting holes where the bolts mount the tand and try and use the tank as a refrence in the front of the frame is closer to the tank on one side vs. the other...I am replacing a frame on a bike now that had that upper hoop bar broke and was re-welded...

120 is not "good" compression, 320's are a bit rich for your jetting also should be down closer to the 300 range unless cyclenders are ported big. it however does sound like you could have slides in wrong. I live not far from you if you need more help shoot me a PM I can help you out, we can get that bike running like it should be...

like said above it is either a radiator hose leaking down or the big rubber plugs on the bottom of the cyclenders, or possably from around the head but you would most likely see water running down the cyclenders in that case....

he is talking about port matching his cases to his transfers on his cyclenders.....2001 are you that new in this game you don't know what case matching is???? Tony, my suggestion is to take this to somebody that has done it before there is more to doing this than a die grinder and a dremel...are you cyclenders ported allready? and are your transfers ported? if so your best bet is to take base gaskets and match them to your porting on your cyclenders, then take the gaskets you have trimmed and match those aginst the case....that would be the simplest way... the way I started and learned from there....

it's gotta be freakin simple, you really can't fuck up putting reeds in...I did not think anyway.... you have single filters? pull them off and look at the slides see if they are moving, also you can look atthe sight glass in the sides of the carbs to see if the slides are moving that way also. Did you turn the gas on?.....and most likely if one slide was stuck it would still start.

I have had repeated cool head o-ring failures...

you need a set of wrenches and a locking tool box....

I have used all different kinds of oil and never seen a huge improvement over any of them..I have only had good results from maxima products so I stuck with it even in my big stroker motors.

it is actually the choke tube my bad. either way it is a common mistake with stock carbs to forget to attach it back between both stock carbs

yes there are a few companys out there that build high out-put stators, I actually have one that I do not use anymore that I might part with. let me know it is a Ricky stator 200 watt I believe..

TZ bearing no matter what crank you buy especially the hot rod set-up......

and i am assuming that the cdi had 2 more wire than the harness? Are you sure your CDI was bad? could have coil shorting out also..

2001 Stroker, I am with you Super M @ 40:1 with K&S 120 strait......

Give Lewie a call he builds THE BADDEST cranks around, and noramlly has decent deals on Hot Rod Cranks also. If you just want to re-buid your crank he will do that cheap...AND off the stock bearing on your crank and put on a TZ..the bearings on those Hot Rod cranks are JUNK.... he also builds some of the fastest bikes on the planet or something for playing he can do your porting and your head work also. 503-663-7711

If you are running stock carbs did you put the SYNC hose back between the carbs. that is prob. why it is not starting...

I worked on a bike like this one time it was the ground was not making good contact, might want to try there. also check all your plug ins for and condensation use contact cleaner and make sure they are all pluged in securly.

Orange wire in the harness hould have went ot the coil from the CDI...from the sounds of it you ditched the plug ins from the CDI and the harness and hard wired it in? the CDI plugs did not match yours so you cut the plugs and wired that way? I would try the TORS like said above, except diconnect all of it and unplug the module in the harness..If that does not work buy a book use the wiring diagram and build your own wiring harness they are not that hard I have built several.