Wiz

yes tapered not much is required at all, I have a reamer that fits in my drill press that is what I use. Just measure with a caliper the joint diameter and mark on the spindle the measurement. use the joint to test fit as you go once you do one you can mark the reamer to the depth you need to go...

Nice...chrome in the can....lol...mine is about like that, I am thinking of making and adaptor so it fits in the reciever on the back of my truck and working on a new design..the one i have works great though I guess...

volkswagon tie rod ends, the spindles have to be reamed to fit them but that is what they used to use back in the early days before hiem joints. any VW shop should have them....I build my own a-arms and that is what I use, not any problems.

PA-Matt, I have a breaker like that i made but it is steel, did you make that one or buy it somewhere it is sweet being aluminum....

I still don't quite get it...what kind of power is he looking for, he has a PT mids on his cub motor, he rides in the woods. so if I am getting this straight he either needs to off his cub motor and buy a stock set of dune ported cylinders to match his P turners and his 33mm carbs....OR did'nt you say that he needed 35 mm carbs and CPI's for his cub motor to open it up? so he should not keep the 33mm carbs and his P turners on his cub motor because it is holding it back on the top end... But if he was going to the track he would need shearers and what carbs again..... Wow this shit is getting confusing and i have not even got to the timming/ compression/ fuel part I probably should be printing this out for future refrence.....lol while I did NOT say john fucks sheep, I did say that john has velcro gloves, lives on sheep farm, and runs outside saying "it's moutain time" every time one gets it head cought in the fence......

Pacific banshee, I am from portland also....I guess it takes more expereince in the open sand to understand that out side the track the cub motor is nothing but a fast play bike...I think I have seen you bike boxcar before I recognize the bike....

get stock cylinders DUNE PORTED stock bore and stroke to 80hp??......hmm sounds fishy....

"I don't want you to think that the bike won't run as it is now...it will. But for the kind of power you're looking for based on those mods, a nice dune port on stockers will do just as well, and MUCH cheaper. Throw in that 4 mil crank in a stocker cylinder, they run very healthy." So from what you are saying based on his mods, dune ported stockers will do just as well......hmmm are you sure???........ I have told you repatedly I was refering to DUNE ridding and Racing heads up stuff not classed off bracket racing, and by the way if you are bracket racing what does it matter how fast your bike is isn't it all about consistancy?? the point of this whole thread is that the cub motors will run strong with whatever pipe you put on them you can cater to your ridding style or how or where you ride with these motors.... you mean the Dm 4mil is bigger that the cub........really??? Leave the track one day there is a whole other world out there past 300'.

To start the CUB is not built in anything more that 68mm... http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3 looks pretty obvious to me.....must not be able to see the SUPER in front of the bigger bore specs. dajoger, in whatever diluted world you are living in that thinks you can get same hp numbers out of a dune ported stock cyclinder motor as a 421 cub you need to take medication. No matter what pipe you are running. It gets back to the numbers thing who cares? I have buddy that has a 4 mill DM that spanks 7, 10 and 12 mil bikes all day long. the cub motors are great sand motors, SAND TRAILS, SAND DUNES, HILLSHOOTERS....it is probably not the best choice in you live in Nebraska,Ohio,Missisippi or whereever and ride DIRT. Or if you ride at your local DRAG track unless you like getting your ass handed to you all day long by the DM's or the DMX's in the same stroke combonations... I think some of you are to dyno happy with seeing who can make the most HP or who is the fastest at the track. It is not all about who is the fastest it is about who's set up works for them. The cub set-up was not designed specificly for drag racing it does not have the specs to be competitive with limited bore sizes. Although it works well it is out dated and out matched in the serious drag world. They were built to accept stock parts that in no way will work as well as the aftermarket side of the spectrum. These cylinders were designed for the duner that wanted more power at a cheaper cost than spending tons of money on stock cylinders to get mixed results. "Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe "........ I will sacrafice that 10hp. on the top to get 10ft lbs. of torque... Mayby your version of casual ridding is not the same as other peoples version. My version of casual riding is top of 3rd through top of 5th for around 30 miles without stopping is that your version? I guess where some of this thread went sideways is where I said that I trail ride, my play bikes do not see dirt I have griz for that, my version of trail ride is on the sand and not just the open sand, the Oregon Sand where there are trees, witches eyes, razor backs and other people. The cub motors are getting more popular all the time becasue of CHEAP power, ridablity, reliablity and tunability to fit alot of peoples needs. According to Mike at Cascade Innovations "unless you are going to drag race a cub motor you do not want to run a CPI or Shearer pipe, we set our dune cub motors up with paul turners and they pull in th 80 hp range and top rpms around 8800 where you want a soild reliable dune bike to run, while the CPI's and shearer's go over the 10,000 RPM mark they are not dune/play pipes" Cascade Innovation (503)-663-2887

dude if you think that cub cylinders are drag cylinders you need to seriously go re-evaluate what is out there. Just because they are ported the way they are out of the castings does not make them drag cylinders. Calvin developed these cyclenders for bolt on performance not as drag set up They were intially built as an idea that friends of his from glamis area that have play bikes wanted more power for ridding in the big sand. Hence why the cub is not made in any version bigger than 68mm bore. Sure drag ported cylinders sacrafice bottom end but there is more to factor in besides porting, like bore, stroke, timing and compression. To compare a 68 bore X 68 stroke cub motor to a set of drag ported stock cylinders is just not in the cards, Those 2 motors do not run alike or make even close to the same power curve. AND explain this, if the T-5's don't make any more bottom end power or torqe why do they come up on the pipe quicker? Or when you are off the throttle an have to manuver and get back on the throttle the t-5's will come back on and with the CPI's you will have to either downshift or clutch the motor? Sounds like the t-5's make more bottom end power to me... I think it is fairly obvious just by looking at the pipe design and the chamber size what each of these pipes are made for that does not take rocket science, the bigger the chamber the more fuel load the pipe will take. I do believe you are correct on saying that the t-5's hold back the cubs top end potential no doubt. but your ESTIMATION that the CPI design makes as much bottom end power and torque is mistakenly off. And according to your signature you don't even own a cub motor so do you have any experience that makes you so positive on your results? Also According to YOUR motor builder (quote "* Spec 1 porting will add more mid and top-end power- great for the dune riders who like to hill-race! ") how is he doing that epoxy the boost ports back closed? quote "* Spec 1 porting will add more mid and top-end power- great for the dune riders who like to hill-race! "

I personally don't think that any of these things could lead to the carbs overflowing with fuel..... besides using the stock carbs which that statement is on the money...

I have seen this micky mouse set-up before where the cut 1 of the floats off inside the bowl to allow for the bowl to hold more alcohol, it causes the float ti lift un-even and the needle to not seat square in the seat itself causing the bowls to overfill.... try turning your fuel pump off (i am assuming you are running a fuel pump) see if it still does it, sometimes the fule pump pushes to much pressure for only 1 float also.

well my cyclenders work fine, I have ran many different styles and configurations what I have now runs and pulls the hardest. I am sure not many ride in the conditions or places I go, Simple fact of it is that CPI and Shearer are drag pipes, they are made for the highest amount of hp at peak RPM while sacraficing the torqe and low end of a big bore stroker motor. If you do not drag race much and play down in the tree shots or in the trails these pipes are not best suited for your ridding style. there is a compromise in either direction you go and that is something that trial and error works best for. I had a set of CPI in frames and I have a set of out frames, the out frames work really well for drag pipes. while my T-5's work way better in tight on the throttle off the throttle and clutch areas. I also said that CPI quality control suckes not there customer service. they have been getting better but it seemed for a long time no set of pipes ever fit rite, one side would be good but the other would have to take spacers behind or in front of pipe mounts to get the pipe to fit rite and clear everything.

the braided hose is better it will not swell as much as the standard clear, and it is made for hot water, the standard clear is a low pressure no heat hose.

I have used ATF also, used it for quite some time, I liked it also but was having problems with clutches so i changed (not saying AYF was the problem though). I was up at Lewie's @ twister and he showed me the inside of his tripple (he was doing clutch work) he had been running Redline for along time when i seen how well it coats I was sold. It is thin like ATF but with alot better adhesion and is made as a gear oil so it provides a better cusion between gear mating surfaces. if anyone would like to give it a try I highly recomend it. Here is the link to it give it a look... http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

Just curios what everybody runs for case oil (tranny oil) and why? is there a reason? what have you had not such good luck with? I used to run the Maxima MTL and had good luck with it but I got introduced to the Redline Ultra Shockproof Oil and after using it then doing a teardown there is nothing I will ever use besides this stuff. It coats and puts the best film on parts of any oil I have ever seen, I am sold...

I had a set of those WOCO hoses....cracked and leaked in no time....good service from where I bought them from (not WOCO) they got me another set after calling WOCO and complaining, installed new set...they cracked and leaked.....went back to stock hoses...have been thinking about the hoses at Home Depot (clear braided) I have a friend that runs it and it has worked for him for quite some time. looks good on his blue bike with engine ice in them....

I just worked on a bike that the guy decided that he could pull the flywheel with a 3 jaw puller.....(enter dumbass comment here) he managed to bend and mushroom the end of the crank bad enough that we had to machine the end of the crank to get the nut back on when putting back together. the other problem i have seen with flywheel pullers (factory style) is that when you use it make sure you get it threaded in all the way or a long way, I have had to use a jaw puller on one occasion where somebody had ripped the threads out of the flywheel, The other time I had to install the puller as far as I cold then tack weld it in to the flywheel to get it off.....pain in the ass...

t-5's on my cub when i play ride for where we play in the deep sand and trees the drag pipes (cpi, shear, etc.) don't work well. I have a set of CPI big bore out frames that I put on once every so often but they have no silencers and are to friggin loud.....If all you are goingto do is run the open sand and nothing technical where you are looking for more bottom to mid range power the CPI of shearer pipes are the way to go. CPI quality control sucks ass....

Fire I I know Cam @ Redline he is a good guy and I would venture to put his work against anyones. I have a 4mil cub motor, that was originally set up by Dan at Patriot, he is another stand up guy in my book. I had issues here and there with stuff, head problems, stator problems, but I got all that taken care of this year and seems to be going good. At this point I am not into moving intake or exhaust port heights until I learn more about it. I can do a clean-up like nobody's busniess but that is as far as I will go for anyone that I work on there stuff (unless they want me too at least). the case porting is pretty basic along with the transfers. my feeling is just make everything symetrical and flow better, through the mating areas, I have spent alot of time on these cases and transfers to be dead on to try and understand how much of a difference the case and transfers make. This is a friends bike that is stock stroke and stock cyclenders, just a port clean-up done by somebody else all port heights are still stock. I might do a little more clean up in places the last guy did not but that wil be the end of it, I plan on windowing the pistons and balancing them also he is a very good rider and this bike should work very well with him i hope I guess we will see.

1800 seems awfully high on that price...lol is that him tearing motor down installing everything and putting motor back together? consider you can get a 4mm crank for around $500 and porting for around that too that leaves you with 800 bucks on his bid..... Also if you motor got that hot you might be lookng at some other problems, not including a new top end and water pump (if that was your problem).... I would have like to have shot that with my infa-red thermometer when she went bet it was hot...lol

Fire, thanks for the props on the cases I have done a few sets allready and done some tansfer work also, I am learning from a friend in the busniess more about intake and exhaust porting to match what I allready do. I am not a port for a job guy I only do mostly clean-up work and work for friends porting is a hobbie of mine and that is IT. (I do not want to get ate up like that mopar guy). I got the case finnished and will take some pics. to show how it turned out along with the transfers on the cyclenders.

PM sent... where did you move there from? sounds like it was alot less wet where you came from....lol

Deckheight I am from down in that area, have you road a long time? I would bet I have seen you on the sand or at bay area or parkers.... you know Big Dave, or Justin Burris, or Craig Ryche or Eddie Sojgren. sounds like you know banshees pretty well you ever worked in the busniess?

clutch cover gasket and a water pump gasket....Use a garden hose to flush that would be fine or use a shop rag and a blow tip with an air compressor, wrap rag around blow tip try and seal radiator top with the rag and blow air through system....