killshee

i wasnt trying to start anything lol i was just saying like i didnt see the poing in doing all that as long as u clean it good but i gess it could make sence to trench it a lil

also looking for a cheep set of pods to fit stock carbs

keeping a eye out for a stock set of yfz a-arms for cheep, bc money is tight. i just bent my right side a-arm today and i need new so if anyone has a cheep set or has seen a cheep set on ebay or yfz central or anywere. please pm me thank you.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361

haha ok good. there is a post about jetting i will see if i can find it.

i had the banshee apart today and i seen some deep spots in the sleeves. was wanting to kno how far i could go to try and clean them up.

ams oil i run 3-4 once per gallon i would just run like klots 32:1 i only used ams oil once or twice so idk but 50:1 doesnt sound right to me?

pics of the 87 250r stocker? [email protected]. please thanxs

so anyone think i will need to do some jetting or not?

does it have 2 carbs or one carb? :ermm:

or u could just sand it up nice and jb weld it. i dont see any point in making the crack worse than it already is if it doesnt hold time for a new case. why "band-aid" as they say. i did the same thing and mine doesnt leek but im still keeping my eye out for a cheep set of cases lol :ermm:

what color plastic and how much shipped to 17814?

haha thank you atleast someone is alive.

also if u do not have a carb sync tool i would look into getting one and syncing your carbs. first set ur air screw at 1 1/2 turns and sync ant idle then use a stop on ur cable and sync at like idk between 1/4 and 1/2 throughtle. there is a sticky in the jetting topic with a video.

wow not even ur a dumb ass for doing this!!!

yes i would start with the needle on the center "third clip" and also. do u kno your elevation. do u have stock air box, no lid or pods? a plug chop is when u get a brand new set of plugs and u go all out 1st to sixth gear and hit the kill switch and pull the plugs and put in a diff set ride back to your garage and take the plugs u ran 1st to 6th and cut them so u can see the electrode. the electrode thing should be like a golden brown color if its to light your lean if its to dark your rich. thanx i kno i love the avatar

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu197/k.../0320090127.jpg

have u rejeted for your area. and also have u dont a plug chop i would start there :biggrin:

so i kno this is gunna piss alot off people off but, i was resurfacing my juggs due to head gaskets problems and i did a small port on my own. i just cleaned everything up and knifed the centers. i didn't change the port size on the sleeve or even touch the sleeve. and i spent alot of time on it also. used about 3 diff files, and about 4 diff tips on my dremal at speed one. i think it turned out rly good and it looks clean. but should i rejet or kno.?

should i put them side by side and go figure eight across them both? this is what u ment right?

thanks i will take it all apart and try this.

i was using a stock gasket and stock head and it started leaking on the right side. then i went to the cool head with o-rings and same side. the o-rings aren't braking, the right side just keeps leaking. the squish seems right to me. "average" is there anyway to fix this? would it hurt to try high temp sealer around the o-rings? im gunna guess my cylinder is bad. witch would mean that i need a new one right? or is there a way to fix it?

up up up

bump

ok i did it and the have to b like .40 - .45 the tool i have only goes to .35 but its just a lil bigger than that. they do look the same tho like ones not any bigger than the other. does it matter if u measure on the outside edges or inside edges? bc i did them on the outsides. it it posible to just put copper wire in the groves for the o-rings or no?