AKheathen

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actually, once you learn how to tune it right, you will be able to simply know where your jetting is at by sound and feel, and never have to pull the plugs. i baught my plugs over a year ago and still running them untill they wear out. the real question, is what pipe profile are you ported for? remember that the pv setup simply adds SOME lower rpm power to the true porting, and the pipe should fall within the poewr range of that porting. really, i am baffled on why so many go through the headache of drag porting an rz setup and making it work when an aftermarket pv setup can be had cheaper. and one other thing- the statement "2 strokes will never have the lowend of 4 strokes" is a falicy. they are simply built that way on the banshee and such because they can reliably handle the higher rpms because of the simplistic rotating assembly and lack of valvetrain. also, most 4stroke engines built to run power that high, adversely lack bottom end, just the same

haha, he's talking about the 2-1 intake, peices, not the cylinder windows

ok, a few things here- every pipe is different and made to work best at different efficiencies and timings, and will respond differently to different engine mods. this includes each version of both toomey and fmf. for example, the t-5 works most efficient at higher flow rates and higher timing than stock has to offer, while the t-6 is made to be most efficient with mostly stock flow and rpm of stock timing, not just an improvement on the previous model......so the real question is what mods are there, and what is planned, what type of ridding, and what rpm range do you want to focus the power on? or on the other hand, you may like the power broader, which will make it more useable in many applications, but not as high as possible.

WHAT...the...FUCK?!?!? this kinda came out of nowhere....never thaught eugene would do something like that. these aren't lego's stored in a tub. i wouldn't even store them in the box like that in my garage, much less hand them off to the notorious box-tossers to roll around. i have tons of parts stacked in boxes and padded waiting for the build. quite frankly, i'm supprized the shipper accepted this poorly packaged item. they always flip shit and make sure it's tapped to specification and nothing is rolling around, or make you sign a waiver up here. even insured, they wouldn't honor it because of how it was packed. i would honestly see what could be salvaged/cleaned up and inventory it, then send the rest back for a partial refund. i wouldn't bring the cost to replace the damaged items into the equation, since it's just about what you are paying for from him. as for dirty parts, well that happens....he does ride penns' woods. i alwas expect to clean up used parts, but verry happy when i don't have to. i have baught alot form members on here, and many tend to go the extra mile, including gary (sheerider1026)whom i have spent 4-500 on separate occasions to alf who is upstanding and bent over backwards for me(no pun). only one problem with shipping from someone else, but it was packed good, and appeared to have been dropped hard. he was willing to make up for it, but i didn't really want to hold him for it. besides, we have his adress, name, and there are plenty of people, and court to hold him responsable in pa hope he responds and gets square with ya soon alfie

I know i already mentioned this in the shout a bit ago, but, i was thinking yellow hoodie with a big bhq in some black/white/grey combo on the front and bansheehq down the sleeve, same deal with black or dark grey, but yellow/white print......i went for orange before, but i find it just sits in my closet at work and i never quite feel like wearing it, and i'm normally pretty flashy at times

well, i was going to say you have to have your transfers checked to see if there is enough material, but it looks like you already did. now, the 1.5mm spacer will make it run, but reporting it and clearancing the domes, or using a head spacer will make it run right. just running a base spacer and stock drag port will likely make it run like crap for power.

can you measure the inside of the pods? 58mm would be way too big for me...

how is your bearing? is the gear pin and/or shaft worn giving excessive play there?

make sure the mains are right first thing. check for air leaks and clean the carbs, one at a time

it slightly changes the viscosity and atomization. just go through checking the mins and readjust the airscrews after the switch

x2 on the 260 to start with, since it sounds like you are ridding freezing temps...and unmodded lid.

hmmmmm....... ok, i posted this in your other thread, but here it is again who knows what happened, but i'm sure the guy wasn't simply lazy or stupid, and he is not here to explain, but that left carb seems to have a pretty shinny new choke knob, which could suggest that it was replaced. could be that the original was messed up by a broken tap or whatever and not retapped. check that it has all the parts that goes to it, including the air jet in the opening. t'ward the filter at the bottom. it is possible, but not reliable to sync the carbs and make it idle by using the cable adjuster at the top, and rule out that being the source of the bog. now-here is an important thing to look at- in one of your pics, i noticed that the fuel line has chaffed pretty deep into that boost bottle and can leat to a horrible air leak pretty quickly. i would ditch it and install the stock cross-over tube. the missing air jet, air leak, and out-of-sync can all cause that bog you describe. and, really there are amany other things, from adjustments, to electrical, to mechanical. also, i'm not 100%, but a factory mikuni idle screw should be the same thread size and should work fine, but the issue is coming across that rare sized tap. if you post in wanted, or ask around, even farm and sand toys (FAST) should be able to supply you just fine, as well as answer any q's you have...

what is the temp, elevation, and that is a uni in the box, right? lid and snorkel?

there is no more/less power wires, just power. if you are using the stock switch, , you can use the headlight pigtails and you will get power to the green wires when the switch is in low position and power to the yellow wires when the switch is in high position, and use the solid black for ground. so, are you just sticking bare leds in with resistors or something? if they are led units made for 12v, then no resistors are needed. if you are just wanting to run them when it's running full time, without switches, then you just need the power and any solid black wire in the harness, or frame/engine ground

both bowls should be identical, save for the one has the jet installed that goes to the choke carb. double check your float settings and make sure there is not junk stuck in the needle. after it stops leaking, check again for air leaks. so, what is your jetting/elevation/mods?

x2 on blowits' post. you have to subtract the meters' resistance. they have an ohms zero adjustment, but not usually marked and inside, but the needle meter may have it external. even so, .1-.5 is not right, and neither is 16. just testing the coil secondary without the caps should be more like 5k area

well, you can get away with stock boots and filters, but it's a little tight on the filters. i believe the size is 28-30, just specify your carbs when you are buying them. it is normall to have a knob and a lever, since the lever is hard to reach on the right. i take it you are running pods, so i would suggest 290-360 mains

umm....yah, lots...........what's your question on them?

umm, the thing about t-6's is that they are made to work most efficiently with stock porting and give alot of low-mid, but still keep up on top, much like the sst's. you can port for the t-6's as well and still make more power yet. the ridding is 30% tight technical trails and alot of open logging roads and such. i don't think either pipe will be harder or easier to tune than the other.......

just remembered that i need a new fuel valve.......

this topic comes up every few months or so....... by "top" i'm assuming that means by the screw holes, right? mabey i'm off on this, but the way i look at it, the reed pedals themselfs are the most restrictive part of the whole reed/cage assembly. the reason i removed so much from the top inside and out, is to leave as little air coushin area as possible, such as the coushin you can observe by dropping a paper plate on the counter squarely. imo, the biggest focus is to ease and assist pedal movement, rather than to just flow them. i am curious, too, if there is dyno on this......

it's not a big gain, mostly throttle response and just something to do.............i believe chariot has the data.....

i have one.....might be interested in the pods....what else you have. i remember the bearings being good, but needed seals because of the hubs.........was trading to a guy months ago, but he fell off the face of the planet, so it's just sitting there.......

it probably rattled out from not locking the nut down, or not filing the end flat where it screws in for the nut.......is it jetted for the pipes and snorkel removal?