AKheathen

get some pro-circuits first, boysen power or pro reeds to start. when you go to build, run a 4mill woods port. you can pick up a coolhead, too, and advanced timing really helps out alot. i like +5.5, but most start with +4. don't go crqazy on the carbs either- the stock size can hang in there pretty damn good, but have water issues, so 28mm-30mm carbs would be fine, but bigger than that, you will pull teeth to get decent lowend out of them. the closest pv cyls to having good lowend is the rz setup, but they all pretty much just add a litlle mid-low to dune to drag port cyls

which fmf pipes? i used toomey stingers with my older fmf gold series pipes and they ran awesome, and matched perfectly

oh, yah, you can test the kill wiring and key wiring at the stator, too. simply unplug the 6 wire plug, put your ground lead on the black wire, and then you just test continuity. any continuity on the black/white wire, and it will kill the engine. it connects to the kill switch and the tors controll box. you must have continuity to the red and black wire(keyswitch) for it to run.

i WILL suggest poping the plastic out of the bearings and installing a grease zirc. in dry locations, the grease already in the bearings will last for quite a while, but in wet locations, it's nice to flush the crap out and keep fresh grease running through them, not to mention keeping the seals greased up and hubs from rusting. both my hubs were pitted to shit and killed the seals. if you want to do the heat seat trick, i would do one or the other, but not the freezer and oven/heatgun. good way to warp/crack an aluminum carier....

unplug the stator connector, starting at the cdi 4wire plug and ohm it out with a meter. start by ohming the meter by touching the leads together and subtract that from the readings. red to green should read 14-22 ohms, and white/red to white/green should be like 90-110 ohms. if you get a bad reading there, there is another plug at the rt. front of the airbox and take the same readings there.......if it reads good there, check for melted wires. the ricky stators are notorious for just going out without warning, being bad out of the box, and having high rpm issues. net thing to check is the flywheel/pickup gap. it's the little box that sits next to the flywheel. you stick a sparkplug box (unfolded) in between the pickup and the node on the flywheel. if it's a big gap, then loosen the screws, push it close and tighten the screws down. you should be able to just pull the box out. you can also use a buisness card. look at the flywheel for signs of prying. if you can get the fywheel pulled, then you can also check the magnets. hope this helps..... -heath h.-

the site is broken........

torco 100% synthetic........i get people stoping me to find out what it is i'm running...

i run similar setup to yours. i have 20cc domes in my head, though........+4 was ok, but +5.5 is what i like the best. i don't even notice any topend loss either, and the gears are really long. what is the elevation and current bore size? on the 2-1, make sure the mains are dialed in first by doing a proper plug chop to the letter, then play with the needles to get it running good from <1/4 throttle through 3/4 throttle, and then set the pilots.

what brand stator did you get? did you use the proper tool to remove the flywheel?

yah, like they said, you may just get away with rings and gaskets on it. i would at least pop it open and see. check the bore/piston clearance.

a little off topic, but would anyone be willing to sell either books, or make copies, lol?

at idle-well it really depends on your idle, but they should be around 50% +/- 10% and just off idle, you will get in the 70% range, and pretty much full power when you are in the pipe...

yah, that "nipple" is actually a pin that has a blade on it, and it's inserted from the outside in the middle and the body is punched to hold it.......if you try to install backwards, it will knock it loose

porting.....you can buy the pipes later, when you can afford it....

you need to read through a few books, and get your pipe specs, pick a few brains, and do the calculations to port a 2 stroke......

.............why does that thread seem so familiar?

i scuff the carbs and rubber for that reason.......and install as warm as possible.....

well, if it was a requirement for mariage, that would be a sure sign to get the fuck out... it's just a quad, but it's YOUR decision. when i got maried, it was me marrying her and all that she was, and visa-versa. if she didn't like my toys, or what i did, or any part of me, i would've told her that i'm not a fixer-uper. there is a bit of give'n take to make it work, but ultimatums like that are bullshit, and the sheer principal of it is fucked........my .20

the little guide pin thingy-mabober doo-hicky hoosker-dooer part that keeps the slide from rotating.....

just a little info- the spacer plate is actually 1.5mm, and will tighten up the squish a bit. you need to factor in the spacer thickness and extra gasket. best to assemble it and take the measurements off the degree wheel first, then start cutting..........now, how the builder is going to make the power is more than the port time/area. there is also shapes and angles of each port that will greatly effect it. if you want to do it, go ahead, but i would go in stages, and ditch the spacer plate to run recessed head/domes.

past experiences suggest that i don't respond to yelling verry well.....

aww, dagg......would be a perfect deal if i was started on the suspension yet.....

from what i hear, all you should have to do is move the screw holes.....there is a few reed threads rollin around that bring it up