AKheathen

well, i would expect to see a melted piston, not bad rings.......the leak probably happened after a few heat cycles, or from screw getting a little loose...........i had an airleak once where the boot clamps the carb, since the rubber was hard when i clamped it down, and it leaked after it got pretty hot. the carb was pretty glazed, too. i always hit them with sandpaper/emry/scotchbrite before i put them in now.

well, you should start a new thread and someone will respond, since there is more to it, etc... anyways, to the origional poster- what is your filter setup? lid/snorkel/pods? i wouldn't guess you are much more than 310 mains, but what is your temps?

does that new modquad head use the 10 little o-rings, and did you pot them on, and in the right spot? i don't see why they would rely on the coper washers alone, but who knows?

yah, i only use that for one thing, since it's made not to harm the maf, but the throttlebody and intake cleaner is stronger and cheaper....

well, going "up to xxx mountain" can really change the jetting, but that doesn't matter if it's not putting out the spark. ok, you are supposed to be getting a bunch of little sparks. first thing i would look at is the plug caps, and all grounds. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator. also, check the magnets in your flywheel

well, you can do that without having to buy that kit..........the bearing splitter is only half that at the parts store, and many have rental tools. also, many people have a steering wheel puller layin around, which can double as the t-puller, and probably comes with the right size bolts to screw into the splitter body. still, that is not a bad price for that size complete kit. otc has just the splitter, or t-puller for that price, lol

hey, jbooker- where'd you get that pump cover? i'm looking for one like that, or if i can find one to do the brushed "cooling fin" look. i believe you can add longer bolts and nuts/washer combo to get more holding pressure, and sooner.

oh, yah, i've installed allot of o-rings with a light rtv coating at work, too, lol. one thing i do, also, is leave the radiator cap off for the heat cycles, so there's no pressure in the cooling system as it cools off and loosens up, then retorque the head.

oah yah, the chariot setup is a really nice peice, and any color you want

lol, dave.....i was talking to this guy with the stock head.

lol, that's how i found out that my fuel valve was leaking, but i never saw it really drip, just the oil on my cyl and damp valve...

haha, i just noticed you're from oly. used to live there years ago. where you riddin? need elevation first, but if a biulder told you what to run with the domes, then you should ask him. otherwise, you have to figure your compression ratios, timing, and squish to tell. if it's a stock, unported cyl with a bore near 54, no timing advance, and squish around .050" then that is the ragged edge of 100ll, and you'd have to be carefull to run it @100'asl, aside from the fact that the stock crank may not last too long....

well, i know chris and a few others has posted the image in threads neumerous times, but there is just a little bit where the window hits, that out open a tad. i think mull might have a solution already for that problem, too.

my fuel cock started to leak a little, but it's old stocker, lol. runs great, just got to watchout for guys who think they know it causes buildup on everything. one of the cleanest, most regulated fuels... i suppose you have already calculated your octane requirements, right?

"the right plates"? as in a bearing puller/spliter? the same one they have hanging on the wall, or in a drawer at the machine shop? that you use the t-puller on? no beating it off when i do it.....she cums

wire brush on the piston? not sure i'd be doin that, when chemicals, like intake cleaner work wonders

.......they make bearing pullers just for that. i got a 2-1/4" and it barely fits on there. you can use a steeringwheel, or t-puller if you have 6" bolts, or you can grab it with a jaw puller.......and yes, they just drop on there when heated.

i have run both boysen power, and pro reeds, and there is a noticable difference between the 2. the power reeds are really, really smooth power through the whole range, and actually eliminates the lightswitch hit of the t-5's and alike. loved them in tight technical trails......i have only been running the pro's this winter, on ported cages, and they are allot crisper, kinda like a vforce. i'm still getting used to the sound and feel of them, but i may just go back to the power reeds. i ride allot of tight, technical trails/woods in search of the better hillclimb, lol.

the sst's are a "wideband" pipe, which means that it is designed to come on early, and carry real far, but sacrifices a little bit of peak hp, as you get from a narrow band pipe that is held to a certqain rpm, like low-mid, or mid-top. i have had both wide and narrow pipes, and i can tell you that most places, othere than a strai out pull, you can do 2x as much. they are comparable to the t-6 pipe, with a little higher rpm, and alot more flow, which means mod and porting freindly. as for cutting down the sst silencers, i'm not sure if it will make a big difference on that pipe or not, performance wise, but you can cut from the tailside of the silencers, and it will not move the mount, so there is no issue......actually we got to talkin about it so much there has been a thread or 2 months ago just on cutting the fmf silencers, lol. oh, yah, you can drill the rivets out and do the same on the pro-circuit silencers, as well. just in case anyone was wondering.

is your workbench true flat, like 1/4"+, or "flat" got a straitedge? i would just have the head planed, or milled, actually, and you will pick up a little power over just replacing the head. also, it has to be parfectly cleaned, with no burrs, or deposits to be square, or the slightest thing can make you think it's warped, not to say it's not, but i'd be sticking a straitedge on it and checking for junk on there.

mabey i missed where it was asked or stated, but.......did it spit sight away, or after it got hot? did it run a few warm-up cool-down cycles and then start doing it after a later run? have you pulled the rad cap and watched what is going on? is the water flowing? does it start pushing out, or does it just splash? bubbles? did you retorque the head after 2-3 heat cycles?. now, the cooing system has many places where coolant can get trapped when you are trying to drain it out, but no place that air gets trapped when filling it on the level. and, i don't see how 2 different size hoses can get mixed, lol, but the coolant bottle lines are easy to mix up, if they are in factory routing, with all the plastics on. if that happens, it will pull air from the top of the tank when it cools of, and push coolant out the bottm of the tank when it heats up.....untill the radiator gets low enough, and the bottle empties.....easy way to tell is pull the top hose off and blow through it....it should flow freely.

good 'ole wet, rusty, dusty stocker, and you should net the most power you will ever see out on that lake, lol. i'll bring one by this week...

well, some fuels, and even oils will affect the ring some....have you gone up untill it gets a wot sputter/breakup? that's usually about 2 sizes rich from what should be a 2mm ring

well, 360 should get you close, and i want to say 40 or 45 pilot, neelde in the middle.

man, that is exactly what i need right there.......got pics? year?