AKheathen

japaneese mild steel. a little harder, lighter, and mor brittle than regular mild steel. welds the same, but will be a little stronger if you heat it a bit first.

is there alot of space in the spacer? if you bottomed out the other bearing, it may be hanging up, stoping that one

x2 i just let it idle to gear up, and it warms up then, so i can adjust real quick and go. have you every tried to talk to someone while it's running? i just hit the rear brake to stall, then kick and go when i'm done talking. dose it start first kick now?

the best epoxies are quite pricey (like 35-65 for a small tube) but they perform awesome, and are aplication specific. i can see it taking a tube and a half to fill the cases enough to account for the removed material.

if the head is chabered, so that the coolant has to run under the head, instead of just pass the domes. i'm not sure if that's how that head works, but i'd imagine that's how. :shrug:

i would start by unscrewing the cap, trimming about 1/4", and screwing it back on. do the same at the coil. if you can, ohm the cap while you have it off, and the coil

as for mixing coolant, just make sure you don't mix long life, and conventional. you can mix all brands of conventional together. i would test it too, to make sure it doesn't break down to a different ph level. the system is only like 2.5 qts, so it's no real cost at all to change :thumbsup:

got that one too, and it grew on me. it'd look funny without it now. how are those ufo's?

there is a nipple just under where the cap retainer scrwes in. you have to shorten it about 3/8" for the jam nut to fit, or it won't idle high enough. if you look ath the 45 degree recess at the bottom of the side of the slide when you take it out, you'll see where it needs to be.

those look like the right main jets

i see you got the cloaking mod. can't even see it :ninja:

blow by? it's a 2 stroke. any blowby gets pumped back into the chamber in the next stroke. what do the plugs look like?

just picked up one of these.paul turner powerhead :shrug:

if it's just amiss at low, but ok at wot, then i would start by cleaning/syncing your carbs.

personally, i'd leave it unbraced, incase you roll it. not that that happens up here

that guy needs to cange his tips/needles, and maybey caps

a tap won't put good threads in there, unless you go bigger. heli-coil, and don't forget the sealant. :thumbsup:

i can see the coating help with a bore that is a little rough, but not how it can effect porting :shrug:

most likely, with a pc job. could be bad connection at one of the connectors too. x2 on th3 caps/ wire for spark. :biggrin:

i would go through the wire harness thouroughly, clean and lube all switches and connectors with nyk dielectric grease.clean and inspect the stator/flywheel, clean all ground points. check all bushing, including the shocks, and ball joints. shifter/ kick start. flush brake system, and check calipers for proper movement. pull your head, and check cylinders/ clean domes, and maybey re-ring. check reeds/ clean carbs/ flush tank. the list goes on, but basically you are doing a full pm inspection, and you're the one doing it, so just get out the fine tooth comb, and make a list when you're done. alot will depend on if work has been done before too, like the sprockets/bolts, carier rebuild, cables, etcetera. steering away from inspecting the engine assy. is a bad move, IMHO. the gaskets are not toomuch, and you should inspect things like the clutch, impellar, cylinders, flywheel, since you already have it out, and it won't be that big of a deal to do.i did my impellar/ stator in belw zero temps, and it wasn't that hard :thumbsup:

hahahahahhahahhahahahhahahhahahahhahahhahahahahha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: what a fucktard! all it supposed to do is kill the spark when the slides/cable sticks, but can malfunction, unnescicarilly killing the spark at any time

no, it's a carb problem. CLEAN THEM OUT! J/k... it could be a few things, not needing a new tranny, but i think everyone's steered awy, because of your carb fiasco. i've never seen someone so adimate about not tearing into something :shoothead:

if you knicked it, might as well ohm it out first red to green wires= 13.7-20.5 ohms red/whit to green white= about 100 ohms

oh chit, no way. was his name don? sounds like the guy i baught my banshee off of. he said that he got all 3 in a trade- 1 complete & 2 in parts, ninus 1 messed up frame. he didn't wanna dig the rest out of storage to sell 'till spring though. he wasn't really on top of things in the sale though, but i can understand having to deal with closing down a shop. i called right after he posted, but he was going hunting, so i called a couple days later like he told me, and kept calling untill i got through a week later, and had to pulll the "where are you at? i'm coming out right now" card to get it. when i got there, he said that he couldn't keep track, cus he was getting at least 10 calls a day. but at least iwas able to pick it up for a grand, and drive it strait to my trailer, and go. baught one of his nice engine stands while iwas there too. :biggrin: if it was the same guy, it was supposed to have a fresh drop in too. the only thin knawing at me, is he let it sit for 3 years in his back yard, then just added gass, and started it. minor scoring on the piston, but hey, it still runs good and not time for a rebuild just yet.

next to the gas inlet? sounds like your airscrew. slanted at an angle by the airbox boots? if you can, back them out 1&1/2 turns. pull your seat off, and if you see 2 flat head screws (about 1/2" round) you still have the stock tors idle screws. do not force them, they are moving a metal lever up and down, and should turn just by hand. replace the airscrews if they're stripped. if it's sticking out of the side of the carb higher up, that's the tors removal kit idle screw, and we can go from there :thumbsup: