AKheathen

check your compression and jetting. look for an airleak. what do your plugs look like? what mods do you have? temp/ elevation? what throttle range?

polaris indy 500? not heard of it, but the pistons/porting is way different, and i don't know if the transfers will match. i'm sure ot will tear your crank to shreads if you don't upgrade to the strongest possible. don't know the stroke either. piping would be interesting, to say the least. if you had a spare burned up motor, you coud pickup a trashed polaris with good running parts, and throw a grand at it, to see. but i would check the stroke/ height, and if there is parts that will make it work. for example, longrod 500 pistons, +7 crank with short rods, std rod pistons with long rods and stock stroke, etc... to know if he's completely pullin your dick, get a new base gasket from each and compare, and look for proof

i have a white brothers bottle sitting right in front of me right now. i'm using it for testing purposes, but the tubes that go into the manifolds are too close together by between 1/8"- 1/4" i noticed putting the intakes on with it attatched. the tube fits perfectly. also, it requires 1-2 pilot jet sizes. the purpose is also to mute the snap, so, yah, i'd start with the bottle, but first, check your carbs. when it's warmed up to temp, adjust the iair screws so that it idles the highest, then turn it back down to about 1500 rpm. make sure you have fresh gas mixed to a good ratio. cleaning the carbs is always a good first maintenance step too, then sync them. if the screws are more than 2 turns out, you need a smaller pilot. less than 1 turn out, you need a bigger pilot. if they are different than eachother by more than 1/4 turn, you have a prob to look for, like airleak or reeds. just re-read your post- was that 20-30 in first gear? count your sprocket teeth, and check the rear tire size. 14/41 is stock.

i use stuff called metal clean. it's a lot less work than mothers, and a couple coats makes mud and water just bead off. i used to spend hours polising just the outer part of the rims on my lowridder, and litterally screamed at a fingerprint from putting thm back on, or a splash on them. i did another set on my s10, wth a ton of nooks an crannies, and just hosed them off for a couple of years from 1 polish job. if you're gonna coat anythhing, it needs to shine without polish, or it will come off easy, when sprayed over polish

there is 4 wires, red, brown, black, and black/white. conect only the brown and red wires together, and leave the black wires disconnected. :thumbsup:

he he he.......

the party with enough pun to go around...........wet pussy everywhere :woot:

and a bett3er angle of the electrode. they seem to look ok, but i've got a better view of br8es, than the bottom of the insulator

i've got my fmf silencers nice and packed, and, nicely packed in a box, cus the toomy silencers look and sound sweet, but i know i should swap :ermm: oh, and they mare making awesome power curve that way too

ambient conditions and elevation. also, it should be @ operating temp when you adjust, so i ride a bit, then adjust. technical ridding is why my pilot settings matter more, but it shouldn't have a prob idling often, unless you have the idle set to low. about 1500 rpm, although they will idle below 1000 easy. i don't idle any ways, except, when i'm putting gear on. i just kick it and dump the clutch because it's too loud to talk at idle. if it's adjusted too rich from a previous ride, the plugs could foul at idle too, after a few min. the kit shouldn't cause a probleem, unless the jam nuts are not installed or tightened. they could back off, depending on wear

i still use ebay, because alot of those anoying items are buy it nows, from wholesalers, with good deals like that one. i was looking for yellow grips, and found an awsome yellow seat cover fo like 30 bucks, and it won't crack in the cold like my flawless stocker did

maybey you're right, i was taking 4 seconds @ face value

yah mine did that once. i stopped, cus it started to run funny, then it ran away, etc. i had forgotten to tighten up the carb clamp up on the intake. fixed the leak, checked the airscrew adj. and went riddin some more. really lucky! :sweat:

i went directly from an 05 660r piped and strait to a banshee. it doesn't have the split-second response, but 4 seconds is a long ass time to hit power. it should be more like 1 second, unless you're starting out in 3rd, or have it set up for a narrower power band on the top end. i know it'll never run like a raptor, but it should do better than it is.

every one has black or chrome, and my grill is white too. iwas trying to decide between white and yellow, but when i sand blasted, i noticed the yellow i baught was vht caliper paint, not headder paint, so i know ill have yellow calipers :biggrin: maybey i'll paint the engine white, and the pipes yellow, but either way, they're gonna stand out. (that's just the way i am) i came across adding white to flat black and yellow by accident, i was gonna do silver, like the frame, but now the frame's going flat black. i have an extra x-over tube, but i won't be home 'till the 4th

they diddn't force cure? i was thinkin on it for color and durability, not the heat deflection properties. did they discolor? have you tried the piston coatings? i was gonna send them a 1 mill raptor 90 piston to try out

yep, it should snap sooner than that with proper jetting. just have to get used to rappin her out too.

i adjust pretty much every ride, and i don't like setting my seat in the snow or mud. just reach down and adjust when it's warmed up, then ride. i get in alot of light throttle areas, so adjustment is important to me.

hell yah, alot of ppl. have other quads with thier banshee too.

i believe the softer pedal has better low end

white ceramic headder paint. i even posted a thread on it. different, huh? i'm thinkin on sending them to swaintech for a thicker coating, cus i like it :biggrin:

no, there is a baffle in the middle you can see when you look inside, and it is wrapped in packing, usually fiberglass, like house insulation. the packing does burn out though, and needs to be replaced when it does. new packing will resore the bottom end power a little, so open them and check. there is a how to on packing, so do a search :thumbsup:

i was joking, but both the airscrews are on the left of each carb, and, no i don't have 2 left carbs, and neither is backwards. if you have the tors eliminated, the idle screws are as described. (right side- right carb; left side- lefrt carb)

yah they run f'n awesome backwards. flipped the reeds so the vibration atomizes the fuel coming from the boost bottle...........now if i could only get it to fire without sprayin the pipes coulda swore the airscrews were on the left side of the carbs, but maybey i'm riddin backwards. how do you reach them strait?

that guy knowws he's gonna die happy...... and braught pillz for da party