AKheathen

bump

don't do it! I already looked into hydraulic oil

they have a use, but it is quite the opposite from boosting power.

click here and read

cant seem to find any test data on GM Auto Trak II, and I wanna run it in my tranny

this is kind of a sore subject right now, so do a search at the bottom of the forum, and you will find plenty on it :thumbsup: edit: click me for a direct link :biggrin:

change the plugs. wire wheels leave behind a little coating on the insulator. replace the plugs, toss those ones, and clean them with a torch next time. :thumbsup:

i have been thinking about using gm auto trak II in my tranny, but i can't seem to find anything about it, aside the temp and oxidation resistance. looking at the oil, it seems to be what I want, but I'd like to see some data, or hear if anyone has tried it; knows about it. edit:==> BTW, i emptied my case on the ground when loading, because the vent came out, so i was thinking of buying it tomorrow. if anyone knows a reason why not to use it, I'd appreciate it, before it's too late. :thumbsup:

also, did it have the h.a.c. system on it?

and it would be easier to regulate before rectifying. just walked outside and thought about it

no, it's the same as running 2 batteries, like on a deisel. same voltage, but more amperage. same goes for the regulators. wire in parellel to handle more load. also, if you have to run 2, you should use 1/2ohm resistors to ballance because one may be off from the other by a small amount and would pickup the load first without it.

mine's like that, i just learned to clutch a little between 1st and 2nd. also, make sure your shift lever is clamped down tightly, and don't force the gear under load, or you will be in there repacing at least the fork, and maybey the gear and drum. have you changed the tranny oil lately?

ok, half of that was kinda hard to follow, but a 30 degree change does call for different jetting. humidity jumps also require a change in jetting. i personally found that it affects the pilot/needle settings the most.

i have a pair of old gold series fmf's with toomy silecers installed. i believ you loose a little on the bottom, but it still pulls real hard from the bottom, when you punch it, so it only seems like a partial throttle loss, still keeping wot power on the bottom, pulling smoothly to the top. they are about 1 inch shorter, but you can turn the stock hangar sideways. not sure if this help or makes sense, but that's just my 2 cents

nah, i can't agree that much. the thing about the shee is how maliable it really is. if you want it to creep, you can make it so, with a verry responsive snap when you nail it. I, too, moved up from a blaster. i've ridden the thumpers, but just can't get away from how fun the banshee really is

dude, this thread is obviously a joke, which is cool, even though some are being too serious. if your only post is thumper bullshit, shut the fuck up befor my mom kicks your dads' ass banshees' aren't outdated, just banned from production, and if they ever made something better, then it would change. if i ever see you on the trails, i'm going to run my ugly ass bumper up your ass and bend your frame in half. btw, if i rode dunes, i wouldn't run a bumper either

i would just go with some pedals, or blaster cages with the gnarley's and ridding trail. then, spend the rest on knick-nacking, like sus. clutch, sprockets, lighting, or somewhere else you wanna make it better.

you can usually pickup a coolhead setup for around 100-150 going used on the forum, and the timing mod is about the biggest bang for your buck noss is the easiest bolt-on, using all stock studs and, i believe, one piece design. They are also at a great price if you wanna go new.

a single output stators only use 4 diodes internally when you rectify them, but when you float the ground on a dual output, even though they share the same ground, a diode trio should suffice to rectify whether the 2 outputs are phased the same, or opposite eachother. using 2 single output stator rectifiers, sharing the same ground from the stator, and combining both outputs to the battery should work, as well. i personally have easier access to diode trio's that can handle 3-5 times as much power as a 250 watt setup, as well as being able to buy regulators new and used locally. let's hear from blowit :thumbsup:

coolhead, +4 timing. boring doesn't really give you any power, and reduces your cylinder life. porting is also a big power mod, but it depends on ho much you're looking to spend.

a diode trio will rectify it into one circut, then you will have to regulate it

i think maybey someone should consolidate/update this thread. maybey including some older pipes that are still being used and traded/sold like the older gold series fmf's. if not too complicated, how some work with different silencers. i may be wrong, but i think i heard that the dmc uses the same headpipes for the allen and the 916's, just different silencers :shrug: maybey we can use this thread to bounce ideas and add info. i just think longer threads are harder to follow sometimes. anyone up to it?

imo, it sounds like something with the presure plate, hub/basket, or discs is transfering too much tortional force to the pressure plate, rather than the inner hub splines. just something to look into :shrug:

measure how far 2nd gear engages, and inspect the shift drum for a worn channel at the top of 2nd. minimal wear can cause it to not fully engage. also, inspect the dog on the shift fork for wear. the fork can also be bent, but it is hard to tell just by looking at it, so if you cannot see any evident problem, it's most likely a bent fork. being off by as little as 1/16" can cause the issues, and you have to spin the gears a bit, sometimes, to go to the next gear. also, if the gear slipped out and started jumping over the dogs, that will bend the fork and round the cogs, so you may have to replace those gears too.

damn!