donkeypuncher

Sit on the gas tank and kiss your bumper.

I get that but I don't see it happening with stock j-arms. The stocker should bend before the frame. With that said, apparently an aftermarket j/d-arm will tweak the frame so I guess what needs to be decided is what the frame is going to be used for. Open duning, hill shooting or drag racing go with either one. For mx, trail or any other riding where there's a higher probability of wrecking or hitting something, an a-arm frame is recommended.

I've heard ltz400 pegs fit. actually I might have a set laying around. If I do I'll compare them to a set of stock pegs I have and let you know if they look like they'll work.

What'd they charge for that?

I'm pretty positive a-arm frames and j-arm frames are identical with the exception of the j/a-arms. The only "benefit" to a j-arm frame is it's a little lighter. I think by about 10lbs give or take. The only "weak" point of a j-arm frame are the j-arms themselves but there are aftermarket options.

Heat gun.

I'd call it ebonics or EbOnX. Here's a translater for you old fellas- http://joel.net/EBONICS/Translator

You obviously haven't read the entire thread. Go back and read every post in the thread. After you've taken your foot out of your mouth you can then apologize to zilla for being a dick.

I thought you said you bought from trinity?..... Did you buy from minkia38? 'cause I've heard nothing but poor reviews on here about him.

Huge carbs on a basically stock bike are going to kill your bottom end. For around $150 more you could port your cylinders and gain far more power then what you would gain from the carbs and vito's pistons. Btw, chill with the caps lock....I don't like being yelled at. Lol

Save the money you'd spend on the carbs and put it towards some port work on your cylinders. A couple of cheap mods would be milling your head and advancing your timing. I'd suggest hitting up Kevin at HJR (site sponsor) for your porting needs.

Id be willing to bet they're still gonna need to be tweaked a little to fit correctly. Even my AC bumper was a little bit of a bitch to get on. But hey, they look good once they're on and so far the nerfs have held up to hitting trees and even a couple of quads so I'd say it was worth the hassle.

technically he did. Trinity is a sponsor.

Nice bike man, welcom to the HQ! I know right?......but now that he's mentioned it...

If you can you might as well do it now. It won't hurt performance with your current setup you just won't get the full benefit until you add a set of more free flowing pipes and larger carbs.

If you're doing timed races at a track where every tenth counts then yes it's worth it. you are already planning on getting larger carbs and shearers so you might as well complete the conversion with drag ported cylinders.

Those fmf's are gonna choke the hell outta those k&t drag ported cylinders. Either set of carbs will work, but once again considering the port work I'd say you would be better off with something bigger. Port work shouldn't effect what octane fuel you need. Timing and compression are the two big factors.

Hahaha, bunch of Sherlock Holms' up in here. Nice work Matt!

ITP makes a 22" sandstar front tire. I used to run them. I've also ran a 22" Kenda dune runner and I would recommend the sandstar over it anyway of the week. That's not to say the dune runner isn't a good tire, but that the sandstar is better. Figaro, looks like a lot of parts are comin in. You should start a build thread so everybody can see it come together!

Sounds like you need some 22" 9-10 paddle extremes on 8" wheels.

Stock banshee's weigh in at around 385 dry....atleast a-arm framed ones do. I wanna say j-arm framed banshees weigh in around 370lbs dry. I'm surprised 450's weigh so much less! makes kickin their asses that much more impressive.

Longer shocks would require long travel a-arms. If you're gonna use standard travel a-arms then you need standard length shocks.

They're not necisarely a bad tire, but I think an 8 paddle edge isn't nearily enough tire for your motor. I think you're gonna find that they won't hook up all that well. A 9 paddle extreme would be a better "dune" choice with your set up.... Or maybe even a 10 paddle edge.

If you've got the dinero, you should pick up a set of 9 or 10 paddle extremes in the same size as the edges. Pick which one you like best and sell the other set. I would run stock gearing to start with ( 14 tooth front, 41 rear).

Sounds like an electrical problem. I would ohm test both your coil and stator. And check your pick up gap.