dragbanshee98

i have a pod filter that fits into the stock airbox with a prefilter as well. large single filter that mounts on both carbs. mounting kit too

i would have driven across the country to get that setup for 2 grand..

sent you a text

nicely setup bike, extremely clean..

i live in Gouverneur, NY. talked to you about this exact bike last weekend and you told me it was located in Hermon, NY. i went to look at the bike on sunday and as i was on my way you told me it was "sold" i have another member on here who you also talked too. this exact bike has been on craigslist in our area (northern NY) for over a month identical too this with the same blown up 600 polaris engine. whats the deal? this setup is getting rather fishy here..

i dont run 1/4 mile, but i do run 300ft sand. been 4 years now since a rebuild. first and second year i ran a dozen races both years with about 5 classes per race with nearly 50 passes each race. last year i only ran 3 races so about another 200 passes. i would say if ur on gas ur motor would last half of what a 300ft motor would. if everything is durable like it should be.. i always tear the carbs and exhaust off each spring and check compression just to be sure.

so is the "black 96 build" one of the bikes for sale? im kind of confused with this listing but im interested

wow, great price on that bike.. shouldnt last long

how hard would it be to fit a force fed bike motor in the engine bay? my plus 13 chassis wont cut it for the engine..

got a set, with cables and TORS setup if want that as well.. call (315) 276-5235 for info

bump! need this thing gone, dont have room for it to sit in the garage or i would keep it..

well its finally time to sell my drag chassis. going another route this year and this one needs to go before i can start the next one. Price is 500$ plus shipping. im in Gouverneur, NY Chassis was fabbed by Tigor Racing Components in Utica, NY. stretched 13" out the front, with cutom made Tigor J-Arms. includes all steering and front J-Arms. chassis ran good with my little 4 mill stock cylinder in it, and tracked straight as an arrow every time. never really got to set it up the way i wanted, bu it hooked a little too hard with 14 paddle rippers on it lol. (thanks ray) any questions you may have you can PM me on here, or email me at hartleracing@aol.com or you can call or text me anytime at (315) 276-5281. there are a few guys on here that can personally vouch for me if there is any questions to that. http://s712.photobucket.com/albums/ww123/dragbanshee98/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ20 picutures and videos of the bike are within the album link i just posted

hmmm, i have a little 4 mill motor that would prolly do pretty decent at the flat track scene..

i have always run race gas in my bike.. seems like it burns alot more alky than race gas if running for the same period of time. so the cheaper cost is alot less than people think. i like the consistency you can get with race gas. seems to me, from what i have heard anyway as i have never personally used it, that alky tends to need to be tuned more often for temp changes and elevation changes. more so than with race gas. someone correct me if im wrong though

depends on alot of things really. but in general it will be somewhat close with those mods on ur bike. in the future, keep an eye on ur intakes. it is true that the boost bottle will crack ur intakes at times and cause a leak in that area. the bottle itself has never been proven to hurt, but it doesnt help any either.. i would say get urself a nice set of intakes in the future and avoid the hassle all together. i went with BOSS intakes on mine and couldnt be happier.

for 300ft races, i would go with AT LEAST a 12 paddle. im running an 11 paddle hauler on my motor similar to urs but drag ported. and im blowing the tires off all the way down the track. im looking for a set of 14 extremes or maybe 14 haulers, but im in a stretched chassis as well

are you willing to ship, or bring most of the way??? hell i would love to have this thing

i have 2 stock sets that are both in great shape i would get rid of for cheap. let me know if he doesnt already have a set for you

there are a few turbo banshees running around if you look hard enough. when setup correctly, these things will haul some serious a$$ and will beat out a bike with an engine nearly twice its size. bump for a super nice bike

for anything more than a bolt on bike, run PWII's. for a stock or bolt on bike, the "flexing" of the the tread and carcass on the 4-Snows will aid them get down the track better.

what size motor was run in the sand slinger frame? will it accept a stock tank, and plastics?

get one of the small containers of Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. use that stuff with a small buffing pad that you would use to wax a car with. put some of the polish on the pad, and with some force and heavy rubbing, the pipes will be back to like new quality.

i always hold it pinned from green till finish. set up your clutch so it will activate when you slightly pull the clutch in, and no more than that. when shifting, just as your hand goes to pull the clutch in, yank another gear, dump the clutch and hang on for the power to get to the tires.

that does look pretty "interesting", to say the least. isnt that a banshee chassis and plastics? and looks to be a 4 poke motor im guessing, since FMF never made a 2-into-1 exhaust for the banshee. that and the pipe has a massive dump on it.